Hello, I have a 08 Coupe and I really wanted to do something nice to the exhuast, but I really dont feel like spending alot of money. I have been told to straight pipe it, muffler delete, res delete, etc. Does anybody have any good ideas? Also, is it possible to install a v6 exhaust on my i4?
i4 Exhuast Help
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Joined
·
104 Posts
Okay if you don't want to spend a lot of money why not just go step by step and try replacing your muffler first? Than maybe if you looking for more you can continue to replace piping.
1) Good (Universal 2.25''-2.5'') Muffler : ~$200
2) Labor : ~$70-$75
Total: $275
???
1) Good (Universal 2.25''-2.5'') Muffler : ~$200
2) Labor : ~$70-$75
Total: $275
???
Joined
·
11 Posts
Muffler=Cheap
A muffler is your best way to go if you're trying to save money. Finding a good one is easier said than done. If you're wanting to upgrade to V6 you'll need either a V6 rear bumper or someone to cut your bumper since it doesn't have dual muffler cut outs. I watched a few videos on youtube to check the sound because a lot tend to sound like a fart can. I purchased the Magnaflow 14832 and I love it. I had to have it adapted with additional piping because the inlet location didn't match up but they didn't charge me extra. I paid $110 for the muffler and $75 for labor. Good luck with whatever you decide :thmsup:
A muffler is your best way to go if you're trying to save money. Finding a good one is easier said than done. If you're wanting to upgrade to V6 you'll need either a V6 rear bumper or someone to cut your bumper since it doesn't have dual muffler cut outs. I watched a few videos on youtube to check the sound because a lot tend to sound like a fart can. I purchased the Magnaflow 14832 and I love it. I had to have it adapted with additional piping because the inlet location didn't match up but they didn't charge me extra. I paid $110 for the muffler and $75 for labor. Good luck with whatever you decide :thmsup:
Joined
·
397 Posts
Joined
·
47 Posts
How did you get that dual exhaust.. from the first glance i thought it was a v6. Did you have to mod anything beside the bumper for it to fit?
Joined
·
549 Posts
when you say, 'buy the muffler', does the shop have their own pipes? Like did they merge the muffler to the original exhaust?
yes the shop has their own pipes and can make the custom Y Pipe for you which merges the 2 pipes together.
or you can make lower the overall cost by buying a Y pipe on amazon or ebay because if a shop makes their own y pipe it cost alot of money
Joined
·
6 Posts
Takeda Exhaust for V6 on I4
Does anybody know if this isn't possible? From everything I have researched, the V6 Exhaust systems seem to fit on the I4. Now obviously they won't provide any additional performance over a aftermarket single pipe for the I4 (like the Megan Racing one: Megan Racing Cat Back System - OE-RS - Throwdown Performance - Throwdown Performance - The Race Starts & Finishes Here!) but it will look a lot cooler.
Does anybody know if this isn't possible? From everything I have researched, the V6 Exhaust systems seem to fit on the I4. Now obviously they won't provide any additional performance over a aftermarket single pipe for the I4 (like the Megan Racing one: Megan Racing Cat Back System - OE-RS - Throwdown Performance - Throwdown Performance - The Race Starts & Finishes Here!) but it will look a lot cooler.
To make the V6 coupe exhaust fit on the i4 you would need to have some custom work done as the forward section where a catback will connect to the catalytic converter is different.
Joined
·
6 Posts
Like how different? One thing I haven't been able to find is images of the underbody of the car showing the differences. Can you give me any examples of exactly what I would need to do or buy to get it to fit?
I'll see what I can dig-up, but there is no piece to buy to make it work as far as I am aware. You would just take the catback to an exhaust shop (unless you had the skills to do yourself) and have them customize how it mounts to the cat.
V6 Coupe Stock Diagram
I4 Coupe Stock Diagram:
I think the i4 has a longer pipe coming off of the cat as the jpipe/downpipe is smaller. I'd have to see the catbacks side by side or cars in the air to confirm that, but all I think you would then have to do if the case, would be have an exhaust shop custom made a piece to connect your OEM cat (or aftermarket) to your aftermarket v6 catback, which would then be slightly further out where it started.
Joined
·
9 Posts
I recently had a the V6 Magnaflow Catback put on my i4 Coupe. Had no problems other than the bolts on the cat being completely rusted out. Had to then torch and drill out the existing self-locking bolts in there and replaced with stainless steel ones. Afterwards, the catback system bolted straight onto my cat. Just had to use a gasket and smaller diameter screws because the holes on the flange don't line up exactly. They are about a quarter inch off, but with a gasket and smaller screws, I was able to get a flush sitting. You'll also need to make your own exhaust hangers on i4 models for the driver side muffler.
Joined
·
234 Posts
Actually with a y pipe where it separates into 2 pipes into two separate mufflers it will free up the exhaust gas flow and be less restrictive than the single muffler since it will have two outlets. Similar to the exhaust on the last gen Eclipses with the 2.4 liter 4 cyl, truth be told their exhaust sound nice for a factory set up on a naturally aspirated 4 banger. Just make sure to get the correct side muffler since the hangers, inlets and outlets are offset accordingly. Running a pair of mufflers in parallel will not restrict the flow, whereas running them in series (aka "in-line") will restrict it. That's why people are saying to remove your factory resonator, because that will free up the flow in your exhaust, the only down side to it is that you get that annoying rice rocket sound. A solid solution to getting a higher flowing exhaust without making it sound like a cheap fart can is to not install a canister style muffler and to keep your resonator. If you want it to flow a little more than the stock unit and still have a great sound, then switch your factory resonator out for a high flow resonator like the MBRP or Vibrant. The factory resonator body is about 15 1/2" long, so you will want to go with the 16" length high flow resonator. The 16" body resonator has a total length of about 20" including the collars, so it will fit. The factory pipe diameter is 2.25" (2 1/4"), so just get that size high flow resonator and get the Y-pipe and the driver side muffler and hanger insulators and your pretty well set then. It will fit like factory, look clean like the V6 and sound burlier and throatier than the stock 4 cylinder exhaust did, I think you will be happy with that set up, especially since it isn't loud enough to make the cops stare at you like a street racing ricer. Also, it will free up some horsepower and torque. So all in all, you basically want it to look like the V6 exhaust from the outside which means the 2 mufflers, and you want some performance gain, and you don't want it to sound like a raspy rice rocket, the layout I described will achieve this.
1. High flow Resonator 2.25" diameter piping and 16" body length so it fits in factory location.
2. 2.25" Y-Pipe to run the second muffler
3. Driver side factory muffler
4. Muffler hangers for the 2nd muffler
5. Competent exhaust shop to do the install
The high flow resonator will only run you about $70-$75
The 2nd muffler currently $189 on HondaPartsCheap
Y-Pipes vary, but plan on $30 or so for decent ones
Hangers are cheap, like less than $10 for all needed
Install in my area (San Jose, CA) for work like this is usually around $150
So figure somewhere around $450 total, all parts and labor.
One more thing, on a technicality, you may want to get the drivers side heat shield for your muffler, it's a protection item for gas tank safety, just a thought.
Hopefully that helps ya!
It depends on your driving style. If you hammer the throttle then you won't gain any fuel milage. But, if you drive normal, then you can get a slight increase in fuel economy, not much, maybe another 20-50 miles at best from a tank. The other thing is if you go with too open of an exhaust you will lose low rpm torque and that usually means people push the gas pedal a little harder to make it move the car like how it accelerated stock, so thereby you lose gas mileage and power with a too open/loud set up, plus the loss of back pressure if too much makes your lose torque and makes it accelerate slower. It's a 4 banger, it needs back pressure to make torque in the low end. Even V6's suffer from torque loss with too open of an exhaust. The exception to this is forced induction, especially turbos really benefit from running full open since they can spin faster/quicker/in less time, hence faster throttle response sooner full spool and quicker to generate peak power. Superchargers not quite as much as turbos, unless exceptionally high boost loads and large CFM's of total air are being moved, but really with 4 bangers you don't need much more than the stock exhaust to flow sufficiently for normal forced induction (like less than 12 psi on a turbo and 6 psi on a supercharger), but you will definitely get noticeable gains in power on forced induction motors when you get the right balance on your exhaust flows, like pipe diameter, smooth bends/turns, correct velocity & pressure, hence the tuned exhaust systems costing more money, research & development and testing are costly when correctly done to achieve proven results. But the basic principles apply to any exhaust, you need balance for it work optimally. As far as intakes go, CAI is not good for rainy places, or running your car through the machine car washes, please be aware of the car wash as some may hydrolock your motor if you run a CAI, just food for thought. It doesn't take submerging your engine to hydrolock it when there's high pressure sprayers involved like in a car wash. That's one of those key details that people tend to overlook. If you get enough water on the filter and try to start it, you could destroy the MAF sensor, foul other electronics, hurt the throttle body. and worst case suck up just enough water to hydrolock the motor, which can happen if enough water makes it's way into your intake, then all kinds of shit can go wrong. Best advice, if using a CAI, wash your car yourself, and run a water repellent pre-filter casing to protect it during washes and rain, which the pre-filter can be left on year round. Less worries with a Short Ram Intake for as far as water damage goes, but people always talk about heat soak. One way to fight off heat soak is to get the SRI tube Silver Ceramic Coated on the outside only, that way it reflects the heat from the engine bay and doesn't absorb it into the tube, technically any intake tube would benefit from being ceramic coated, whether it is a CAI or an SRI. But that's your best bet short of making a custom insulating barrier for the passageway from the front bumper where the factory intake resonator sits and plumbing it to the inlet from the fender to the engine bay and sealing around the underside of the hood and making a heat shield for around the air filter.
1. High flow Resonator 2.25" diameter piping and 16" body length so it fits in factory location.
2. 2.25" Y-Pipe to run the second muffler
3. Driver side factory muffler
4. Muffler hangers for the 2nd muffler
5. Competent exhaust shop to do the install
The high flow resonator will only run you about $70-$75
The 2nd muffler currently $189 on HondaPartsCheap
Y-Pipes vary, but plan on $30 or so for decent ones
Hangers are cheap, like less than $10 for all needed
Install in my area (San Jose, CA) for work like this is usually around $150
So figure somewhere around $450 total, all parts and labor.
One more thing, on a technicality, you may want to get the drivers side heat shield for your muffler, it's a protection item for gas tank safety, just a thought.
Hopefully that helps ya!
It depends on your driving style. If you hammer the throttle then you won't gain any fuel milage. But, if you drive normal, then you can get a slight increase in fuel economy, not much, maybe another 20-50 miles at best from a tank. The other thing is if you go with too open of an exhaust you will lose low rpm torque and that usually means people push the gas pedal a little harder to make it move the car like how it accelerated stock, so thereby you lose gas mileage and power with a too open/loud set up, plus the loss of back pressure if too much makes your lose torque and makes it accelerate slower. It's a 4 banger, it needs back pressure to make torque in the low end. Even V6's suffer from torque loss with too open of an exhaust. The exception to this is forced induction, especially turbos really benefit from running full open since they can spin faster/quicker/in less time, hence faster throttle response sooner full spool and quicker to generate peak power. Superchargers not quite as much as turbos, unless exceptionally high boost loads and large CFM's of total air are being moved, but really with 4 bangers you don't need much more than the stock exhaust to flow sufficiently for normal forced induction (like less than 12 psi on a turbo and 6 psi on a supercharger), but you will definitely get noticeable gains in power on forced induction motors when you get the right balance on your exhaust flows, like pipe diameter, smooth bends/turns, correct velocity & pressure, hence the tuned exhaust systems costing more money, research & development and testing are costly when correctly done to achieve proven results. But the basic principles apply to any exhaust, you need balance for it work optimally. As far as intakes go, CAI is not good for rainy places, or running your car through the machine car washes, please be aware of the car wash as some may hydrolock your motor if you run a CAI, just food for thought. It doesn't take submerging your engine to hydrolock it when there's high pressure sprayers involved like in a car wash. That's one of those key details that people tend to overlook. If you get enough water on the filter and try to start it, you could destroy the MAF sensor, foul other electronics, hurt the throttle body. and worst case suck up just enough water to hydrolock the motor, which can happen if enough water makes it's way into your intake, then all kinds of shit can go wrong. Best advice, if using a CAI, wash your car yourself, and run a water repellent pre-filter casing to protect it during washes and rain, which the pre-filter can be left on year round. Less worries with a Short Ram Intake for as far as water damage goes, but people always talk about heat soak. One way to fight off heat soak is to get the SRI tube Silver Ceramic Coated on the outside only, that way it reflects the heat from the engine bay and doesn't absorb it into the tube, technically any intake tube would benefit from being ceramic coated, whether it is a CAI or an SRI. But that's your best bet short of making a custom insulating barrier for the passageway from the front bumper where the factory intake resonator sits and plumbing it to the inlet from the fender to the engine bay and sealing around the underside of the hood and making a heat shield for around the air filter.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!