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Car so nice, bought twice
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick show and tell (1 of a 2 part series of stuff I've done in the past week :))

Why? To separate the oil and fuel and various other crankcase gasses from getting sucked back into the intake and gumming up the throttle body over time. Under WOT the breather tube is an overflow for the PCV valve. Under cruise and idle, it is a breather (intake).

Materials used:

  • Jegs Air Oil Separator: LINK. It comes with 3/8" barbed 1/4" NPT fittings, but I wanted to use the wider 1/2" barbed 1/4" NPT fittings below (more airflow).
  • I reused the stock small segment of tubing the is attached to the cylinder head cover barb, as well as the OEM hose clamp.
  • Zipties

From McMaster:
  • 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Buna-N Tubing. Good for oil, gas, air, engine coolant. 4 ft. worth.
  • 2x Aluminum Barbed Tube Fitting, Straight for 1/2" Tube ID X 1/4 Male Pipe, Black .
  • 3x Moisture-Resistant Acetal Barbed Tube Fitting, 90 Degree Elbow for 1/2" Tube ID . Acetal is rated for > 200F (coolant is ~190F)...other plastics are not.
  • 1x Moisture-resistant Acetal Barbed Tube Fitting, Straight For 1/2" Tube Id .
  • Plastic hose clamps for 3/4" OD tubing. Not worried about pressure or temperature here. so don't need metal.

Total Cost: ~$85.

I didn't uninstall the existing metal breather pipe / TB coolant bypass pipe. Just ziptied it in place so I wouldn't have to worry about re-doing the TB coolant bypass hose (and spilling coolant). Cut my hoses, installed my fittings and hose clamps, then ziptied the hose to the air intake tube and an electrical wire conduit to keep everything held in place. Tubing + zip ties is rigid enough to hold the AO separator from moving.

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