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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was investigating installing an amplifier under the passenger seat. My hand told me that there was a factory cut in the carpet. With the aid of a flashlight and shoving the seat full forward my eyes told me that under this flap was the wiring for what I suspect to the the seat heater and the SRS.

I also found what appears to be air duct outlets which concern me because heated air blowing directly in this area may not be good for the amp (or maybe any air movement is good?).

Also, under this flap are two rubber plugs in the floor of the car. I pried at them a bit and they seem like with sufficient force they would pull out. What is this about? I could only presume them to be drain plugs in the case of a flood. But then, why are there 2 right next to each other?

Does anyone know if the cross member that the forward seat rails mount into would be a decent grounding point (assuming paint rubbed off and a bolt threaded in)?
 

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Does anyone know if the cross member that the forward seat rails mount into would be a decent grounding point (assuming paint rubbed off and a bolt threaded in)?
Yes
 

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Just another old guy ....
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I was investigating installing an amplifier under the passenger seat. ........

Also, under this flap are two rubber plugs in the floor of the car. I pried at them a bit and they seem like with sufficient force they would pull out. What is this about? I could only presume them to be drain plugs in the case of a flood. But then, why are there 2 right next to each other?
Those two plugs are where the 4 cylinder models O2 sensors wiring comes into the car. Here's the parts digram for a 4 cylinders exhaust w/O2's ("A" & "B").

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com...EXL&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+PIPE+(L4)
 

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07 Sdn
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I'm doing the same thing (installing an amp under the drivers seat with an underseat sub on the passenger side). How are you routing the wires? :)

I think any air is good air. If its cold enough for you to use the heater then the amp will probably be cold solid from sitting in the car anyway. Even if you have the heater on toasty hot it won't come close to how hot an over worked class AB amp can get :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, I put myself in a bind over here.

I am relocating the amp to under the passenger seat so I can amp all 4 channels. However, I like my 4ga run from the battery to the back so I am going to come off of that distribution block across the back seat and down the passenger side trim with the hot and amp remote wires.

I am making a custom harness from a Metra 70-1721 and a Metra 71-1721 so that I can insert the amplifier directly between the factory head unit and the factor speaker wiring without cutting any factory wiring.

So, power wires will enter from the passenger side of passenger seat and the amplifier speaker wires in and out will enter/exit from the driver side of the passenger seat. The trim at the door kicks out and is flexible enough to accommodate a loom and the trim at the console is flexible enough for loom and is practically hidden from view that close to the floor anyway.

My only concern at this point is that the ~6' lengths for each speaker run to and then from the amp equates to ~50' of speaker wire so noise may get picked up. I won't know until I try, though.
 

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07 Sdn
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Yeah I'm concerned about the speaker wire length too. I was actually considering going down the center console past the shifter and down to the amp with the speaker wires.

I have both Metra harnesses and I have them crimped and ready to install for the same reason you didn't want to cut into the factory harness. Apparently they sell a one piece Metra that combines the two but I didn't know that until later :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The problem with the one piece harness is that it is (in my research) ever so slightly more expensive than the two separate harnesses which is compounded by the fact that I have to buy 2 because they all are missing at least one wire for the steering controls.

I went ahead and made a full 20 pin harness on both ends from the wires salvaged from the the spare harnesses. So long as the factory connections aren't total blanks that would block those pins from inserting this should keep me from getting into the dash and realizing I missed a pin or put an otherwise missing wire in the wrong position.
 

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I'm glad I saw this thread. I didn't even think about the steering controls. Time to do some searching...thanks!
 

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The problem with the one piece harness is that it is (in my research) ever so slightly more expensive than the two separate harnesses which is compounded by the fact that I have to buy 2 because they all are missing at least one wire for the steering controls.

I went ahead and made a full 20 pin harness on both ends from the wires salvaged from the the spare harnesses. So long as the factory connections aren't total blanks that would block those pins from inserting this should keep me from getting into the dash and realizing I missed a pin or put an otherwise missing wire in the wrong position.
Good idea on that. I still have an extra Metra harness when I bought a new lower pocket single din kit to replace my broken one. I hated that they didn't include the two steering wheel control wires on the pass through harness.
 
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