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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Basically title says it all. I have a isimple aux adapter in my 04 accord v6/navi and am wondering how to install sub and amp seeing I already took away the aux...is there anything else besides splicing my rear speaker wires in the trunk. If that's the only true option I will do it but just wanted to know what you have all done....I'm looking to DIY instead of bringing to a expensive audio shop. And I already have a 12' and amp from my previous car

Bump. Anyone?
 

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RIP my Acorn
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The aux input wouldn't have anything to do with subs/amps. I tapped the rear speakers. I don't know how else you would install an LOC besides directly off the head unit, but I'm not a professional by any means.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The aux input wouldn't have anything to do with subs/amps. I tapped the rear speakers. I don't know how else you would install an LOC besides directly off the head unit, but I'm not a professional by any means.
Ya my buddy is telling me I that route I mean I have been doing all my mods myself in my garage but the only thing that scares me is cutting wires and what not as I don't want to screw up. I basically am searching the net now on a DIY for our 7th gens
 

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Use a line out converter to get RCA output, I used a PAC unit which includes a relay for remote output to turn on your amp. When your radio is on, it activates the relay which turns on the amp, in the same manner an aftermarket radio would. Radio off, amp off.

Otherwise your amp will be always on if you tap into a switched output. If you have any noise in your system, this can be specially annoying if you want a quiet morning drive with your radio off.

Here it is:
 

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Going off of what nightfire said. I tapped into my cigarette lighter power for the remote so the amp turns on with that. Which of course is only on with the key turned.

I have an aux jack installed and run an amp with aftermarket speakers. It was a big install for me since I didn't know much about it at first, but wasnt too bad. Glad I did the work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Use a line out converter to get RCA output, I used a PAC unit which includes a relay for remote output to turn on your amp. When your radio is on, it activates the relay which turns on the amp, in the same manner an aftermarket radio would. Radio off, amp off.

Otherwise your amp will be always on if you tap into a switched output. If you have any noise in your system, this can be specially annoying if you want a quiet morning drive with your radio off.

Here it is:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SOEM-T-2-Channel-Line-Out-Converter/dp/B003550RLE/ref=pd_cp_e_1
You sir are a godsend...ya I have the V6 /navi and pulled the whole thing apart to install my aux unit so with this it should be fairly simple..did you go through the firewall to the passenger side with the power cord?
 

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How many channels is your amp? I can tell you from experience that once you drop in a sub, you will probably not be satisfied with the sound of it booming out bass alongside the weak stock speaker output. It will be a very unbalanced sound. At the very least, you should swap out the front speakers with some more powerful 6.5" and use a channel, or separate amp to power them.

Don't know how old your amp is. Some need line level inputs while some can accept speaker level inputs. The latter is an easier install because you can just tap the inputs directly from rear speakers without using RCA line level converter.

When you install, run power wire away from speaker wires going into the amp. Also, make sure to get good clean ground with paint stripped away from metal. Power, ground and trigger wires can be physically run together or in near proximity, but they should be kept away from speaker wires and are usually run on separate sides of the car (if you decide to run with front speakers and your amp will be in trunk). Those things will help you avoid electrical whine.

Using cig lighter voltage as a trigger, means your amp will always be on, every time you start the car (even if radio is off). This may create a buzzing on quiet drives. You really should try to find which wire at back of radio turns on with radio and tap into it.

Power cable runs straight from + battery post. Positive trigger from back of radio. Ground can be found near wherever you mount the amp. Again, power, trigger and ground can be physically next to each other but away from speaker wires. Use a wire hanger to punch through a rubber firewall rubber grommet and snake power wire thru. Run it low under door moldings, carpeting, etc. Be sure to fuse power wire near battery. Would hate to see you on the side of the highway with your car on fire.

Plenty of youtube videos out there showing you how to do these things, maybe some directly using your model Accord. Much better than my late night mumblings.
 

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Use a line out converter to get RCA output, I used a PAC unit which includes a relay for remote output to turn on your amp. When your radio is on, it activates the relay which turns on the amp, in the same manner an aftermarket radio would. Radio off, amp off.

Otherwise your amp will be always on if you tap into a switched output. If you have any noise in your system, this can be specially annoying if you want a quiet morning drive with your radio off.

Here it is:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SOEM-T-2-Channel-Line-Out-Converter/dp/B003550RLE/ref=pd_cp_e_1
Wait, so if I got the PAC unit with the remote start trigger, I grab speaker wire from the rear speakers and then attach the remote wire from the amp directly to the pac unit?

Sorry I'm a noob about amps and subs. I have a stock navigation unit and was thinking of adding a amp and sub to the mix. I'm pretty sure I understand the power wire from the battery thru the firewall and grounding the amp but I'm sort of confused about the remote wire.

I'd rather have it where the amp only turns on with the radio, instead of always on with the car (like with the accessory fuse).

I have not purchased an amp or sub yet, so I'm not sure if I'll need high-level or speaker level inputs on my amp, if I'm using the PAC unit.

Thanks for your help
 

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Yeah, but I guess where do I wire it to?

I heard people say the cig lighter fuse or a random power wire from the HU or w/e.
You should wire the amp to turn on only when you would want the radio on, which happens to be the same as the cig lighter. So it's like stock operation and wont kill your battery.

It is simple to just splice into the wire for the cig lighter instead of trying to worry about the fuse. You could theoretically splice into several different things for the remote wire, but the cig lighter just seems to be easiest and what many ppl do.
 

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Yeah, but I guess where do I wire it to?

I heard people say the cig lighter fuse or a random power wire from the HU or w/e.
You ARE over-thinking this.

The easiest way to get what you want is in paragraph 1 of post number 5 above. When you buy a loc, make sure it has that feature.

IF you want your amp on anytime the key is in ACC or on, regardless if the radio is on or off, do the cig lighter route. You've stated this isn't what you want.

If you don't want to go with the easiest option, there is a a wire on your oem hu you can tap into...I believe it is A1.
 

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While I haven't done it in my '03, it would be soooo much easier just to install an aftermarket HU in the cubby and run interconnects to your amp. I've done OE integration several times in the past and always ended up just going with a new HU. Really is easier in the long run and the factory HU is EQ'd at settings that the manufacturer thinks people want to hear. Check out a YouTube video on the JL Audio CleanSweep. The whole purpose of that device is to get a "flat" signal from the OE HU to the amplifiers. Factory HUs are crap, even in the high end (Infinity, Bose, Harmon Kardon, etc...) systems. Trust me. I run a Kenwood HU in my Lexus and the difference in sound quality when I ditched the LOCs and went straight from the aftermarket HU was remarkable.

If you don't like the cubby install, there are kits available that allow you to put it in the dash with the A/C controls. A little more expensive but look pretty good.
 

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While I haven't done it in my '03, it would be soooo much easier just to install an aftermarket HU in the cubby and run interconnects to your amp.
I disagree. If the guy only wants to add some bass, he just needs to run the amp wires to the trunk, install an loc in the trunk running off a rear speaker, connect all that up to the amp, and install a sub.

Your route would have him taking the dash apart, doing a bunch of wiring in the dash and cubby, and running wire to the trunk, then hooking up the amp and sub. This is definitely NOT "so much easier". In fact, it is a lot of unnecessary work to put some thump in the trunk if you ask me.
 

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While I haven't done it in my '03, it would be soooo much easier just to install an aftermarket HU in the cubby and run interconnects to your amp. I've done OE integration several times in the past and always ended up just going with a new HU. Really is easier in the long run and the factory HU is EQ'd at settings that the manufacturer thinks people want to hear. Check out a YouTube video on the JL Audio CleanSweep. The whole purpose of that device is to get a "flat" signal from the OE HU to the amplifiers. Factory HUs are crap, even in the high end (Infinity, Bose, Harmon Kardon, etc...) systems. Trust me. I run a Kenwood HU in my Lexus and the difference in sound quality when I ditched the LOCs and went straight from the aftermarket HU was remarkable.

If you don't like the cubby install, there are kits available that allow you to put it in the dash with the A/C controls. A little more expensive but look pretty good.
I disagree. If the guy only wants to add some bass, he just needs to run the amp wires to the trunk, install an loc in the trunk running off a rear speaker, connect all that up to the amp, and install a sub.

Your route would have him taking the dash apart, doing a bunch of wiring in the dash and cubby, and running wire to the trunk, then hooking up the amp and sub. This is definitely NOT "so much easier". In fact, it is a lot of unnecessary work to put some thump in the trunk if you ask me.
Yeah, I know I should probably use an aftermarket HU but don't really want to invest in it right now.

Jimijam, thanks for the info. Once I pick up a sub and amp, I'll give it a go!
 
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