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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello as said in the title I just bought a 2003 I4 automatic accord sedan for my fiance 2 days ago that only has 38k miles on it. 1 owner car with zero accidents. It's in excellent condition and drives like it's new but one issue I noticed while at a dead stop in drive the whole car vibrates like crazy like I can feel it in my bones even lol. If I increase the rpms to around 1k or put it in neutral/park it goes away instantly. I already found the fix in a sticky here on this awesome site but my question is being 10 years old but so low of miles do I have a chance at all of getting it fixed under the goodwill program? If they turn me down I bought it from a Honda dealer who I've purchased multiple cars from before so hopefully they will just cover it in house if not. I already found the front motor mount and engine idle smoothing kit are only about $130 so it's not an expensive fix part wise but I'm sure that would be several hours of labor to install it all. Have you guy's had success with this fixing the issue?
 

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...my question is being 10 years old but so low of miles do I have a chance at all of getting it fixed under the goodwill program?
Wow, low miles! With respect to the question above, I seriously doubt it, whether it had 10 or 110,000 miles. Two things will wear down a car - use, and the passage of time (even in the absence of use). Usually they occur concurrently, but in any respect at 10 years old, they won't fix it for free unless it is a recall issue. Just my 0.02, and welcome to DA. :)
 

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Welcome to DA and you must be a real man because you bought her a Honda and not some BMW money-pit....

As Ryan stated, I doubt they will give you any Goodwill but it does not hurt to lay out a good pitch.

My questions are:

Are the issues you are having the motor mount (only one mount?) and the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)?

There is a good post on here (search for it) about the Idle Air Control Valve which will smooth out your idle speed and there are several posts about rotting motor mounts causing rough driving- even at idle, unless you go into neutral. Pop the hood open and look at the engine when you rev it to 2,500 rpm....does the engine move more than an inch?

Remember....lack of use = ABUSE!

Unless it was in a climate controlled garage and stored properly regarding fluids and such, you will still have issues. If you do get a new motor mount- try to get the Honda part and not an aftermarket part. You can get aftermarket on many things, but motor mounts have to be exact.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did not find anything about that Idle Air Control Valve but I will have to look it up. The front motor mount looks to be falling apart and the Honda Service Bulletin 04-024 addresses the front motor mount and then the engine idle smoothing kit which appears to be new radiator mounts and a few other small parts as the culprit. The car was kept in a garage and it doesn't really get very cold or hot here on the coast of Oregon. I do plan on changing out the tranny fluid though and doing a radiator fluid change right away then as I have time I will start checking all the other fluids out but so far everything looks good. Drove the car for about 100 miles and the oil still looks and smells brand new on the dipstick which is a good sign.

PS I hate European cars! We sold her Jetta that she had since before we got together and what a piece of junk that car was talk about a money pit. Was a 2001 with under 100k miles and burned a quart of oil a week, replaced countless O2 sensors and the catalytic converter twice and spark plugs once a year because of all the oil burning. We had to fix a lot more than that too but I could go on and on so I'll stop there. All those brands from that region are expensive pieces of junk in my opinion though. :)
 

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OK, I will suggest that you change the oil (regardless of how "new" it looks), change the brake fluid (it is hygroscopic so just sitting there it will attract water), change the coolant and of course do 3 "drain and fills" on the transmission fluid.

Because it sat for a while, you may need to clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) and clean the Throttle Body. You can search for member "golftango" and his excellent write-up with pics on how to do this. Very easy and with tools you already have, no doubt. When cars sit for a while, the crud that surrounds the butterfly valve will harden and that will lead to the butterfly valve not seating properly- so clean that throttle body!

I help my friends on getting older cars with low miles to run properly. You have got to put fresh fluids in there soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The oil was changed a month ago along with the air filter and cabin air filter but I do need to do the brake fluid it sounds like and I was going to do the tranny 4 times over the course of a month or so to be able to get 12 quarts in there total which I believe is what I read it holds total. I will read his write up on how to clean the throttle body for sure too.
 

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Good work...please ask questions as you will find many members here with great write-ups and pictures that can help you.

You can price out fluids at your local dealer as well as search online. I like to use CurryAcura in Scarsdale, New York for parts as they offer free shipping- but you may want to go local or with another dealer.

For trans fluid, your trans holds 6.9 quarts of DW-1, which is part number 08200-9008A.

Doing 1 drain and fill replaces 43.48% of your fluid; doing 2 drain and fills replaces 62.38% of your fluid, and the 3rd drain and fill replaces 81.29% of you fluid. Make sure you order crush washers (at least one new one for the final drain and fill) which is part number 90471-PX4-000

Also, replace your power steering fluid by using the "Turkey Baster" method. I ordered two bottles and this is part number 08206-9002A

Brake fluid (2 bottles needed) is part number 08798-9008A

A friend of mine just bought a 4 cylinder for his niece and we spent a day and about $350 to change all fluids and put new rotors and brake pads on. Car drives like new now.

ATF filter is part number 25430-PLR-003
Coolant is part number OL999-9011A and you will need to order two bottles but will only use 1 and 1/3 of the bottles.

Shop around for prices, ask questions, and make a few afternoons available over the next two months and hit it! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just an update I took the car in to the Honda dealer that I bought it from today and they said they already know the goodwill program will say no on a 10 year old car so they didn't even want to waste their time submitting it but with that being said they offered to pay for parts and labor in house. So today they ordered the updated front motor mount and the engine idle smoothing kit. I will be curious to see how noticeable of a difference it makes after the new parts are installed. I will update again after all that is done. In the mean time I will be doing the transmission drain/fill and cleaning the throttle body and maf sensor along with seafoam in the gas tank. Should be a good start then after that I will change out the coolant and brake fluid.

Just wondering if your car is a PZEV? I wonder if that make a difference in how it idles.
How would I go about checking to see if it had that emissions stuff on it or not at least I think pzev is extra emissions junk right?
 

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...with that being said they offered to pay for parts and labor in house. So today they ordered the updated front motor mount and the engine idle smoothing kit.
Wow, score one for the stealership er, I mean dealership. I'm assuming the car was no longer under warranty. Nice to know there are still Honda dealerships that will off their customers some "Good Will".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I just picked the car up from the dealer and so far I would say it feels like the vibrating has been cured between the new motor mount and the engine idle smoothing kit. It actually feels much smoother while driving and accelerating as well which is nice. I thought it felt a little rough while accelerating before but figured that was normal for the 4cyl but now it is smooth as can be. Not sure if anybody else was having this same issue on here but if you are then Honda's tsb fix really does work and you can buy all these parts for roughly $140 depending on where you buy them from.
 

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Ok, I just picked the car up from the dealer and so far I would say it feels like the vibrating has been cured between the new motor mount and the engine idle smoothing kit. It actually feels much smoother while driving and accelerating as well which is nice. I thought it felt a little rough while accelerating before but figured that was normal for the 4cyl but now it is smooth as can be. Not sure if anybody else was having this same issue on here but if you are then Honda's tsb fix really does work and you can buy all these parts for roughly $140 depending on where you buy them from.
Interesting, I recently bought a 03 Accord Coupe EX and have noticed the slight vibrating when the A/C is on and when the car is idling. I googled this and everyone says this is normal for Honda's and thought to myself how is vibrating from having the A/C on normal lol. Did you get an invoice with the part numbers they used for the parts? I might do this to my car to make it better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Interesting, I recently bought a 03 Accord Coupe EX and have noticed the slight vibrating when the A/C is on and when the car is idling. I googled this and everyone says this is normal for Honda's and thought to myself how is vibrating from having the A/C on normal lol. Did you get an invoice with the part numbers they used for the parts? I might do this to my car to make it better.
Here are the part numbers:
Front Engine Mount:
P/N 50830-SDA-A04, H/C 7622301
Engine Idle Smoothing Kit:
P/N 50830-SDA-999, H/C 7637044

I will try to figure out how to post up the actual pdf of the tsb. Let me know if the link isn't working and I'll email it to you.
 

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How would I go about checking to see if it had that emissions stuff on it or not at least I think pzev is extra emissions junk right?
my car had a pzev sticker on the rear drivers side glass. Other than that I really don't know how to tell. I have replaced my front motor mount myself and it finally helped after I loosened all the mounting bolts and rocked the engine before tightening them back up.


I found that steel "mass" plate in my front bumper and took it out when I mounted my front lip.. I dunno if it is factory or not, but seems fine without it.
 

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stealership is right my check engine light went on heard the cpu needed to get updated they said ya maybe thats it, they checked it and said it allready had been updated now pay us 70 dollars for the diagnostic (wouldnt need to pay if it needed update) and you need to replace both 02 sensors. with only 61k miles. (warranty is up at 60)

also my 04 accord v6 ex mt coupe vibrates when started cold, then stops when is warm, after about 3 min. hopefully doesnt eventually do this all the time
 

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I googled this and everyone says this is normal for Honda's and thought to myself how is vibrating from having the A/C on normal lol.
It actually is, but mostly with older cars. When the AC is off, the pulley that is built into the compressor, is spinning freely and offers little or no load on the serpentine belt. When you turn the AC on, the clutch in the compressor activates. The compressor jumps to life and begins compressing the refrigerant. That alone is a major load on the engine (hence the worse gas mileage with AC) and you can see the RPMs drop slightly and the engine idle roughens. There should be a programmed increase in RPM to compensate and of course, engine mount design and the condition of them is important. Some carmakers just deal with the load increase better than others. I can't say Honda has ever been great at that. I haven't driven the later generations so maybe they have improved now.
 
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