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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all I got a 2.0t now ignore my sig below I gotta change it still. I was interested in the 21-3516 k&n boost controller I figured you’re not messing with the ecu and it won’t void my warranty and it’s half the price of a ktuner gains show around 25 whp but good under the curve gains for sure. Has anyone tried it is it worth the $380? Thanks!
 

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More cars, more problems
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At the risk of ruffling some feathers: any and all devices, regardless of manufacturer, that mess with MAP sensor readings are junk at the least and dangerous junk at the worst. There is no substitute for a proper tune.

If you're on a budget, I would look up a shop that does K-Tuner/Hondata tunes near you so you don't have to fork over the cost of the tuning hardware.
 

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I second what TGHI has said. I personally would just get a proper tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I second what TGHI has said. I personally would just get a proper tune.
Yeah I’ll look into a proper tune. If something blows up on the car though just flash it back to stock then tow it to dealer? How’s the K&n intake it looks good and I like that it sounds good but without the box do you have any increase in IAT’s ?
 

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Turbo lag
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Hello all I got a 2.0t now ignore my sig below I gotta change it still. I was interested in the 21-3516 k&n boost controller I figured you’re not messing with the ecu and it won’t void my warranty and it’s half the price of a ktuner gains show around 25 whp but good under the curve gains for sure. Has anyone tried it is it worth the $380? Thanks!
They say it won't void the warranty, but if they are increasing boost where it shouldn't (even if it's within the max amount of boost from the factory), would the car register that as an over boost condition? If so, that'll void your warranty anyways.

Yeah I’ll look into a proper tune. If something blows up on the car though just flash it back to stock then tow it to dealer? How’s the K&n intake it looks good and I like that it sounds good but without the box do you have any increase in IAT’s ?
If the dealer dig deep enough, they can tell if the car has been flashed or not. If they choose to dig that deep, your warranty is done for. Although, I have seen a few cases on the CivicX forum where people blew up the 1.5T and got it warrantied anyways.

A good tuner will always try to keep your car safe first, and power second. It's their reputation that brings in business, too many cars goes kaboom, they won't have anymore business.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
They say it won't void the warranty, but if they are increasing boost where it shouldn't (even if it's within the max amount of boost from the factory), would the car register that as an over boost condition? If so, that'll void your warranty anyways.



If the dealer dig deep enough, they can tell if the car has been flashed or not. If they choose to dig that deep, your warranty is done for. Although, I have seen a few cases on the CivicX forum where people blew up the 1.5T and got it warrantied anyways.

A good tuner will always try to keep your car safe first, and power second. It's their reputation that brings in business, too many cars goes kaboom, they won't have anymore business.
Thanks I figured I’d upgrade the trans cooler and get bigger inter cooler especially if I do a stage 3 Pherable tune
 

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Stage 3, according to the Tuner, is fine for a stock car as long as you're running 91/93 octane. I vote for 93 if you have it. I'm running Phearable Stage 3 with just a K&N intake (mainly for the noise).

I saw your previous question about increased IAT. I didn't take any before readings so I'm not sure. Some people say they make less power with an aftermarket intake, but with running stage 3 I have more than enough even with what loss considered. IF you do install it, do it right and use the heat shield etc.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Stage 3, according to the Tuner, is fine for a stock car as long as you're running 91/93 octane. I vote for 93 if you have it. I'm running Phearable Stage 3 with just a K&N intake (mainly for the noise).

I saw your previous question about increased IAT. I didn't take any before readings so I'm not sure. Some people say they make less power with an aftermarket intake, but with running stage 3 I have more than enough even with what loss considered. IF you do install it, do it right and use the heat shield etc.
I definitely am looking at either injen or K&n intakes not for power but just because the blow off valve sounds so good with those intakes. Also looking at stickier tires off topic but will a 245/40/19 sticky tire fit? The stock diameter is 26.4” it seems if I get those tires they’re around 26.73 or more than 0.3” taller (depending on the tire) so I hope there’s no rubbing.
 

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I definitely am looking at either injen or K&n intakes not for power but just because the blow off valve sounds so good with those intakes. Also looking at stickier tires off topic but will a 245/40/19 sticky tire fit? The stock diameter is 26.4” it seems if I get those tires they’re around 26.73 or more than 0.3” taller (depending on the tire) so I hope there’s no rubbing.
Get the K&N for the blow off and turbo noise - that's why I got it and you will NOT be disappointed! I can't comment on the tire question that's above what I know or have tried. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Get the K&N for the blow off and turbo noise - that's why I got it and you will NOT be disappointed! I can't comment on the tire question that's above what I know or have tried. Good luck!
I would assume that the high volume prl box intake also makes noise but probably lessened compared to the K&n. I’ll stick to K&n! Thanks!
 
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