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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking at this how to here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67036

and the manufacturer install diagram here:

http://rs.audiocontrol.com/company_38/LC7i_SN.pdf

For the LC7i / LC2i install, do you only need to tap into just the rear speakers using the harness if you want to run aftermarket front components, rears, and subs using 2 aftermarket amps, or do you need to identify the mid, high, and sub wires coming directly from the factory amp, tap into each of those wires right at the amp, and run the wires from the taps into each of the 3 mid/high/bass inputs on the LC7i / LC2i?

I'd rather not cut or tap into the factory wiring, and rather use a harness if possible.
 

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You can come right off the rear deck however you will have to jump over to cover the fronts at the LC7I
 

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I would recommend running them separately because you will lose the ability to fade front to back. You do not need to run a separate line for the sub. You can use the rear channel and that will give you the 1 input and 2 outputs (rears and subs) hope this makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would recommend running them separately because you will lose the ability to fade front to back. You do not need to run a separate line for the sub. You can use the rear channel and that will give you the 1 input and 2 outputs (rears and subs) hope this makes sense.
I'm wondering if instead of cutting into wires leading into the factory amp, if they sell the molex plug A that goes into the amp separately, so that I can make my own harness and don't have to cut any factory wires?

EDIT: Looks like they only sell the full right side wiring harness for $160. Part number is showing as 32140-T2A-A50, but I'm not sure if it's the correct harness. Oh well, not buying a full harness.

Can you confirm that these are the proper hook ups from 18P plug A on the factor amp going to the inputs on the LC7i? Not following what you mean by using the rear channel only. Wouldn't it be better to run as follows and use a single set of RCA preouts from the LC7i main output to a 4 channel amp and one of the RCA preouts from the LC7i to the sub amp, leaving a set of RCA's coming off the LC7i unused?

Front driver 6.5 positive = Light Green Pin A13 - (connect to main input L + on LC7i)
Front driver 6.5 negative = Pink Pin A6 - (connect to main input L - on LC7i)
Front driver tweeter positive = Brown pin A12
Front driver tweeter negative = Gray pin A5
Front passenger 6.5 positive = Gray pin A14 - (connect to main input R + on LC7i)
Front passenger 6.5 negative = Red pin A7 - (connect to main input R - on LC7i)
Front passenger tweeter positive = Blue pin A15
Front passenger tweeter negative = Pink pin A8
Rear driver 6.5 positive = Yellow pin A16 - (connect to Chan 2 input R + on LC7i)
Rear driver 6.5 negative = Brown pin A9 - (connect to Chan 2 input R - on LC7i)
Rear passenger 6.5 positive = Blue pin A17 - (connect to Chan 2 input L + on LC7i)
Rear passenger 6.5 negative = Orange pin A10 - (connect to Chan 2 input L - on LC7i)
Subwoofer positive = White pin A4 - (connect to Chan 3 input L + on LC7i)
Subwoofer negative = Brown pin A2 - (connect to Chan 3 input L - on LC7i)

On the factory amp
Pin 11 isn't used
Pin 1 is brown and is the ground
Pin 3 is white and is +B Audio amp

So Pins 1 and Pin 3 will need to be removed from the factory harness and added to the custom harness.
 

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Wow, hold on. Don't cut any harness or wires. They sell speaker harness adapters. Just unplug the factory speaker and plug this in. It has 2 wires sticking out, tie into them and run it to your LC7I. No cutting required at all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow, hold on. Don't cut any harness or wires. They sell speaker harness adapters. Just unplug the factory speaker and plug this in. It has 2 wires sticking out, tie into them and run it to your LC7I. No cutting required at all!
I can use harness adapters, but then you essentially have factory wiring going from the factory amp to the LC7i. No issue in sound quality doing this?

Also don't you have to sum the front speaker high/mid signals to provide full range? Did you just hook your LC7i to the front mids?

Are the front woofers are full range? ...or do they filter out the high frequencies going to the tweeters? If they're full range the LC6i or LC7i makes sense as there's no need to tap into the factory tweeter channels. Otherwise I would think the LC8i would be necessary so both front woofer and tweeter channels can be tapped into, then summed into 1 output channel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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You would only be using a small portion of factory wiring and there is no difference in sound quality. You do not need to sum as the front mids and rears are full range
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Perfect! Thanks
 

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No prob. Post pics when you are done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So the factory jumper settings don't need to be changed from seperate to summed on the LC7i for main channel because the factory speaker wires leading to the front woofers are already summed, so just grab the signal from there, hook into metra adapter, and run it to the main input on the LC7i while leaving the factory tweeter connector unplugged?

Channel 2 which will be ran to the coaxials in the deck and channel 3 which will be ran to the sub are to have the jumpers set as seperate (LC7i factory default position) for those as well?

What about the jumper on "automode" and GTO? Leave GTO in "on" and move the jumper in automode to "defeat"?
 

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Remind me what auto mode is. I am having a brain fart
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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If you are using a separate input from your sub then no need to use auto mode. That would only be used when you don't have a factory sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you are using a separate input from your sub then no need to use auto mode. That would only be used when you don't have a factory sub.
Thank you kind sir!
 
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