I think you answered your own question.
You need to clean off old and smear on new hondabond where the chain case contacts the head, same on the right side, where the kink is. Best practice is to actually smear a light layer on the gasket itself, this seals everything. Also, you need to clean the mating surface on the head VERY WELL, if you didn't do that, that's the first problem.
Note that there are 4 spots where Hondabond needs to be placed; two in the front and 2 in the back.
Actually - see attached.
Thanks for these tips regarding the Hondabond on the 4 moon corners. I'm about to do this soon. I think I'll dab the 4 corners a bit as well as the gasket itself.Felpro gasket is fine with Permatex black (oil resistant) RTV. A nice dab of RTV must be used in any sharp corners or 90 degree angles. When using RTV (and you should), barely finger tighten all bolts and wait at least half hour before torquing. This allows it to firm up a bit instead of squish out the sides. Torque with inch torque (small tq wrench)tightening incrementally going in criss cross pattern (bolts that are opposites). Note: You can even thin smear RTV all over the gasket surface but it might make cleanup a bit harder next time. Maybe if you brush a thin coat of oil on surfaces before mating, it might help that.
Did you first hand remove the old sealant and then use brake cleaner? Or some special dis-solvent?You need to clean off old and smear on new hondabond where the chain case contacts the head, same on the right side, where the kink is. Best practice is to actually smear a light layer on the gasket itself, this seals everything. Also, you need to clean the mating surface on the head VERY WELL, if you didn't do that, that's the first problem.
Not at all, the washers are included with the metal caps when you buy them. IIRC, they're more expensive than the gasket....like $4 a piece, I think.the valve cover washer grommets on top? Are the old ones difficult to remove as well?
Thanks for the tips. Hope it works out well.I first hand removed old hondabond/RTV using a razor blade at a proper angle, lightly scraped away old gasket material. If the gasket material/hondabond is very old, then it literally just falls off with your fingers peeling at it. After that, spray brake clean on a paper towel then start wiping the mating surface on the head, AWAY from the inside of the engine. Take care to NOT PUSH any dirt or sand into the engine. I do not spray directly onto the mating surface because it gets into the engine also. This part took the longest out of the entire job.
For the tube seals, you need to use a pry bar, there is no other safe way because a screwdriver works but you risk damaging the valve cover. And you need to pad the opposite of the pry bar with a piece of rubber hose or rag because the back side of the pry bar will rest against a piece of aluminum on the valve cover. Then you'll have to pry very hard for it go FLYING OUT of there. If it's not leaking, I would say don't replace. The new tube seals will be VERY TIGHT. You'll have to coat the inside of the tube seals and the outside of the spark plug tubes with silicone paste before you even attempt to slip the tube seals over the tubes. Prepare to use a piece of plastic, I used dental floss, to run around the tube seal to make sure it goes around the outside of the tube, they pinch very easily.