I think you answered your own question.
Leaking New Valve Cover Gasket
I have an 07 Accord EX Sedan K24A8 MT 220K Miles. I replaced the Valve cover gasket about 2K Miles ago. The car had no oil leaks until I changed the Valve cover gasket. The only thing I didn't do properly was torque it down to spec. I tightened the bolts down by hand in no certain order. Would that be the issue or is the new valve cover gasket a faulty one? I got the valve cover gasket from O'rielly's with the spark plug gaskets. Also, the reason I changed it was because I took off the valve cover for repaint.
Also, It is leaking from the back, because when looking at it, you can see oil on top of the headers.
Also, It is leaking from the back, because when looking at it, you can see oil on top of the headers.
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Would it be a faulty valve cover gasket or The torque specs?? If its faulty, I have to buy a new one. If its the torque specs, then Ill just remove and re torque...
The tightening sequence is there so the gasket seats evenly. Same with the torque specs.
You could clean up the area and loosen & re-tighten the bolts to spec. If it doesn't leak anymore, great. If it does, the gasket's messed up. I would also recommend using an OEM gasket.
You could clean up the area and loosen & re-tighten the bolts to spec. If it doesn't leak anymore, great. If it does, the gasket's messed up. I would also recommend using an OEM gasket.
Did you use Hondabond at the specified locations?
You need to clean off old and smear on new hondabond where the chain case contacts the head, same on the right side, where the kink is. Best practice is to actually smear a light layer on the gasket itself, this seals everything. Also, you need to clean the mating surface on the head VERY WELL, if you didn't do that, that's the first problem.
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Note that there are 4 spots where Hondabond needs to be placed; two in the front and 2 in the back.
Actually - see attached.
Actually - see attached.
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It's obvious, first mistake is you didn't use an OEM gasket.
And if you didn't use RTV or Hondabond on the 4 points that previous posters have mentioned, there's another reason for it to leak.
Honda gasket is like $10.00..really what did you save? a buck or two??
If it were me, I'd pull it, throw away the old gasket...get the Honda gasket and do it right.
And you'll never have to worry about it again(or, until the next valve adjustment)
And if you didn't use RTV or Hondabond on the 4 points that previous posters have mentioned, there's another reason for it to leak.
Honda gasket is like $10.00..really what did you save? a buck or two??
If it were me, I'd pull it, throw away the old gasket...get the Honda gasket and do it right.
And you'll never have to worry about it again(or, until the next valve adjustment)
The amount of errors made replacing your valve cover gasket is mind boggling.
The valve cover fasteners require very little torque (probably less than 10 ftlbs), so you likely went over. If you don't have a small (1/4" drive) torque wrench use a nut-driver or 1/4" drive ratchet so you are less likely to over-torque it. At least you didn't go too far, and snap the studs off (you didn't right?). Good luck on the second try.
Felpro gasket is fine with Permatex black (oil resistant) RTV. A nice dab of RTV must be used in any sharp corners or 90 degree angles. When using RTV (and you should), barely finger tighten all bolts and wait at least half hour before torquing. This allows it to firm up a bit instead of squish out the sides. Torque with inch torque (small tq wrench)tightening incrementally going in criss cross pattern (bolts that are opposites). Note: You can even thin smear RTV all over the gasket surface but it might make cleanup a bit harder next time. Maybe if you brush a thin coat of oil on surfaces before mating, it might help that.
You need to clean off old and smear on new hondabond where the chain case contacts the head, same on the right side, where the kink is. Best practice is to actually smear a light layer on the gasket itself, this seals everything. Also, you need to clean the mating surface on the head VERY WELL, if you didn't do that, that's the first problem.
Note that there are 4 spots where Hondabond needs to be placed; two in the front and 2 in the back.
Actually - see attached.
Thanks for these tips regarding the Hondabond on the 4 moon corners. I'm about to do this soon. I think I'll dab the 4 corners a bit as well as the gasket itself.Felpro gasket is fine with Permatex black (oil resistant) RTV. A nice dab of RTV must be used in any sharp corners or 90 degree angles. When using RTV (and you should), barely finger tighten all bolts and wait at least half hour before torquing. This allows it to firm up a bit instead of squish out the sides. Torque with inch torque (small tq wrench)tightening incrementally going in criss cross pattern (bolts that are opposites). Note: You can even thin smear RTV all over the gasket surface but it might make cleanup a bit harder next time. Maybe if you brush a thin coat of oil on surfaces before mating, it might help that.
Any tips on removing the inner tube seals? Don't wanna use a pry bar and damage anything.
How about the valve cover washer grommets on top? Are the old ones difficult to remove as well?
Did you first hand remove the old sealant and then use brake cleaner? Or some special dis-solvent?You need to clean off old and smear on new hondabond where the chain case contacts the head, same on the right side, where the kink is. Best practice is to actually smear a light layer on the gasket itself, this seals everything. Also, you need to clean the mating surface on the head VERY WELL, if you didn't do that, that's the first problem.
Great pics!
I first hand removed old hondabond/RTV using a razor blade at a proper angle, lightly scraped away old gasket material. If the gasket material/hondabond is very old, then it literally just falls off with your fingers peeling at it. After that, spray brake clean on a paper towel then start wiping the mating surface on the head, AWAY from the inside of the engine. Take care to NOT PUSH any dirt or sand into the engine. I do not spray directly onto the mating surface because it gets into the engine also. This part took the longest out of the entire job.
For the tube seals, you need to use a pry bar, there is no other safe way because a screwdriver works but you risk damaging the valve cover. And you need to pad the opposite of the pry bar with a piece of rubber hose or rag because the back side of the pry bar will rest against a piece of aluminum on the valve cover. Then you'll have to pry very hard for it go FLYING OUT of there. If it's not leaking, I would say don't replace. The new tube seals will be VERY TIGHT. You'll have to coat the inside of the tube seals and the outside of the spark plug tubes with silicone paste before you even attempt to slip the tube seals over the tubes. Prepare to use a piece of plastic, I used dental floss, to run around the tube seal to make sure it goes around the outside of the tube, they pinch very easily.
For the tube seals, you need to use a pry bar, there is no other safe way because a screwdriver works but you risk damaging the valve cover. And you need to pad the opposite of the pry bar with a piece of rubber hose or rag because the back side of the pry bar will rest against a piece of aluminum on the valve cover. Then you'll have to pry very hard for it go FLYING OUT of there. If it's not leaking, I would say don't replace. The new tube seals will be VERY TIGHT. You'll have to coat the inside of the tube seals and the outside of the spark plug tubes with silicone paste before you even attempt to slip the tube seals over the tubes. Prepare to use a piece of plastic, I used dental floss, to run around the tube seal to make sure it goes around the outside of the tube, they pinch very easily.
Not at all, the washers are included with the metal caps when you buy them. IIRC, they're more expensive than the gasket....like $4 a piece, I think.the valve cover washer grommets on top? Are the old ones difficult to remove as well?
Take heed of what t-rd tells you, as you have to make sure you align the tube seals correctly or you risk damaging them..I've used a light coating of fresh oil, on both the tubes and seals, and never had an issue.
Recently replaced my spark plug tube seals. I scratched up the mating surfaces by the time I figured out how to remove those things properly. I smoothed out the scratches with some 220 grit sandpaper which seemed to work pretty well. I also applied some hondabond to the deepest scar.
I'd recommend practicing putting the valve cover back on before doing it for real. I had to remove the cover and reinstall it again to make sure the tube seals are positioned evenly.
I'd recommend practicing putting the valve cover back on before doing it for real. I had to remove the cover and reinstall it again to make sure the tube seals are positioned evenly.
Thanks for the tips. Hope it works out well.I first hand removed old hondabond/RTV using a razor blade at a proper angle, lightly scraped away old gasket material. If the gasket material/hondabond is very old, then it literally just falls off with your fingers peeling at it. After that, spray brake clean on a paper towel then start wiping the mating surface on the head, AWAY from the inside of the engine. Take care to NOT PUSH any dirt or sand into the engine. I do not spray directly onto the mating surface because it gets into the engine also. This part took the longest out of the entire job.
For the tube seals, you need to use a pry bar, there is no other safe way because a screwdriver works but you risk damaging the valve cover. And you need to pad the opposite of the pry bar with a piece of rubber hose or rag because the back side of the pry bar will rest against a piece of aluminum on the valve cover. Then you'll have to pry very hard for it go FLYING OUT of there. If it's not leaking, I would say don't replace. The new tube seals will be VERY TIGHT. You'll have to coat the inside of the tube seals and the outside of the spark plug tubes with silicone paste before you even attempt to slip the tube seals over the tubes. Prepare to use a piece of plastic, I used dental floss, to run around the tube seal to make sure it goes around the outside of the tube, they pinch very easily.
Can you elaborate a bit on the dental floss segment? I see the point about needing to lube the tube seals on the engine as well as the seals themselves.
I got the Honda OEM set, so I am thinking of just doing them all at once for a peace of mind.
I would use engine oil to lube the seals, not silicone paste. And I don't think you'll need floss or anything to get the seals over the tubes, they seem to slip on pretty easily.
Coincidentally, I was just watching a video about this because I wanted to see how stubborn the tube seals are coming out. Pretty informative, the guy did a half-decent job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNfqmRIw2hQ
Coincidentally, I was just watching a video about this because I wanted to see how stubborn the tube seals are coming out. Pretty informative, the guy did a half-decent job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNfqmRIw2hQ
They don't slip over the tubes easily.
I used silicone paste because the seals are rubber, even more slippery than if you use oil. When you set the valve cover with new tube seals over the spark plug tubes, because new seals are very tight, they simply will not slip over the tubes. They will 99% pinch a little bit on almost every single one. You just run a plastic piece of something in between the seal and the tube to get the seal to go outside around the tubes. When the seals are pinched, they pinch on top of the tubes' openings. You can use a small pocket screwdriver to do the same but you will most likely either scratch up the tubes or cut the new tube seals.
But I would say if the insides of the tubes are dry and you don't see oil, there is no need to replace the tube seals. It is overrated to do that and pain in the butt to be honest. Mind the valve cover gasket first.
I used silicone paste because the seals are rubber, even more slippery than if you use oil. When you set the valve cover with new tube seals over the spark plug tubes, because new seals are very tight, they simply will not slip over the tubes. They will 99% pinch a little bit on almost every single one. You just run a plastic piece of something in between the seal and the tube to get the seal to go outside around the tubes. When the seals are pinched, they pinch on top of the tubes' openings. You can use a small pocket screwdriver to do the same but you will most likely either scratch up the tubes or cut the new tube seals.
But I would say if the insides of the tubes are dry and you don't see oil, there is no need to replace the tube seals. It is overrated to do that and pain in the butt to be honest. Mind the valve cover gasket first.
Take note of how the old spark plug tube seals sit, as in which way they face. With the V6 valve covers they sit in there the opposite way most oil seals get installed. I learned that the hard way, but luckily it was before I put the motor back in so it was no big deal, just cost $24 to get six new ones, again.
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