[frogvtec]

Finally seeing some leak, so have to do this job this weekend.

Wanted to reconfirm and see if there is any other place I should use HondBond, aside from the 4 corners?

For the spark plug tube seals, any tips of getting them to sit into the valve cover properly? Tapping it in with PVC pipe? Don't want to rip them with too much force. Thanks.

 

[t-rd]

Don't replace the spark plug tube seals if the inside of the tubes is bone dry. They are a pain in the @$$ to get out. You have to pry very hard then they go flying off far away. If you do want to do it, lube the outside with silicon paste first, then tap in using a mallet on a socket size that matches closely the outer circumference of the tube seal.

 

[frogvtec]

Don't replace the spark plug tube seals if the inside of the tubes is bone dry. They are a pain in the @$$ to get out. You have to pry very hard then they go flying off far away. If you do want to do it, lube the outside with silicon paste first, then tap in using a mallet on a socket size that matches closely the outer circumference of the tube seal.

Will do. I wanna replace it, since I already have it as part of the set. Might as well.

I do notice my Vtec Solenoid leaking, so I'll proally need to do that next. In fact, I don't think my valve cover is the culprit, but I ought to do it.

Is the oil pressure o ring a 22MM?

Thanks. This site has changed a lot. haha

 

[2Accordz]

Will do. I wanna replace it, since I already have it as part of the set. Might as well.

Yep, and you can return 'em!

Like t-rd said, they are a PITA to get out and then get in correctly..ask me how I know..
If they're not leaking, split, torn....I wouldn't even bother.

 

[nate704]

Replace those while you are there with cover removed and parts ready. It's not hard to pry off those seals. Just grap one side with needle nose vice grip and push it down and it will pop out without any issue.
You need to put some force when you puch down with one quick snapping motion.
I struggled with the first one, but figured it out with the second, and I was able to pop the rest in less than 5 seconds.
Make sure you lightly (very light) lube it with silicone grease when installing the new ones, and use the removed old ones as a sacrificial socket for your hammer/mallet.

 

[t-rd]

FYI, all this guy shows replacement of all items. The only thing I don't agree with him doing is removing the high pressure end of the power steering hose, dripping ps fluid all over the serpentine belt area, while mounting the valve cover back. Do not remove the ps high pressure hose, just tie it out of the way with a bungee cord, or you'll need a new o-ring for that because it will leak ps fluid once you install the line back on with the old o-ring.

 

[frogvtec]

FYI, all this guy shows replacement of all items. The only thing I don't agree with him doing is removing the high pressure end of the power steering hose, dripping ps fluid all over the serpentine belt area, while mounting the valve cover back. Do not remove the ps high pressure hose, just tie it out of the way with a bungee cord, or you'll need a new o-ring for that because it will leak ps fluid once you install the line back on with the old o-ring.

What o-ring? Is it number 20? Thanks.

 

[t-rd]

yes

 

[frogvtec]

yes

#20 o-ring sits in the p/s housing right? I didn't notice there being an o-ring in the housing aside from the ring that's already on the high pressure hose opening.

Finally finished the valve cover, did a test and see it leak near the timing chain side facing front headlight. I wonder why though.

I used Honda OEM gasket, Honda Bond, and let the car cure 1 full day. What I did notice was the valve cover gasket did not sit into the grooves of the valve cover a hundred percent. Is that how it is? I gave Honda my vin for the exact part.

Is there anything I can do to salvage the existing gasket? Or should I just redo with new part? I am just wondering what I did incorrectly, or what went wrong. Shet..
I'll take it out and try reuse it, but not sure if the cured Honda Bond on the gasket prevents reusing.

 

[t-rd]

You need to clean that groove completely, if there is dirt/sand sitting in there, the gasket would not sit flush.

Do not reuse the old gasket, it's useless, it's degraded over time.

The o-ring for the power steering high pressure hose goes on the hose's fitting, not into the pump's housing.

 

[frogvtec]

You need to clean that groove completely, if there is dirt/sand sitting in there, the gasket would not sit flush.

Do not reuse the old gasket, it's useless, it's degraded over time.

The o-ring for the power steering high pressure hose goes on the hose's fitting, not into the pump's housing.

The oring looks different from the flattish oring around the gold part on the high pressure hose. Seems like I‘ll need to prick it out? The new o ring is rounder.

I just did the valve cover with a NEW honda oem set. Not reusing the old set and I did clean the grooves really well. I suspect I may not have seated the gasket well. Found it leaking a few minutes in. Can i just take off and reseat? Or do I need to buy a new one again. I will take a look at it again.

 

[t-rd]

You need to pick the o-ring off on the high pressure hose's fitting using a pick.

You can re-seat the valve cover but you have to apply seal again at the 4 kinked corners. I don't know how you bolted down the valve cover, but you need to bolt it down in 3 or 4 steps, from the middle outward.

 

[frogvtec]

You need to pick the o-ring off on the high pressure hose's fitting using a pick.

You can re-seat the valve cover but you have to apply seal again at the 4 kinked corners. I don't know how you bolted down the valve cover, but you need to bolt it down in 3 or 4 steps, from the middle outward.

I did follow the pattern. Might as well try salvage. I‘ll try reseat and reseal.

Then worry the p/s side afterwards. thanks

 

[frogvtec]

Hi, Is it possible to circle the area in the respective corners as to where the Honda Bond should be applied? Please, as it would be helpful. Thanks.


Front Left of Valve Cover

Back Left of Valve Cover

Front Right of Valve Cover

Back Right of Valve Cover

Thanks

So is this the o-ring? If so, I am still curious as to why the o-ring replacement looks rounder than the one currently on the hose?

 

[jfuredy]

So is this the o-ring? If so, I am still curious as to why the o-ring replacement looks rounder than the one currently on the hose?

View attachment 514858

The new one is rounder because it is new, and the correct shape. The old one is leaking because it has hardened in its compressed shape. So the old o-ring is no longer pressing against the sealing surfaces properly, so it leaks fluid. The new o-ring will press against the edges and seal properly. They need to be soft enough to compress under pressure to work properly.

 

[2Accordz]

I just did the valve cover with a NEW honda oem set. Not reusing the old set and I did clean the grooves really well. I suspect I may not have seated the gasket well. Found it leaking a few minutes in. Can i just take off and reseat? Or do I need to buy a new one again. I will take a look at it again.

Chances are you "rolled" the gasket. It happens.
If you take it off, look for araes where it got pinched or rolled...here's the deal: if you find those areas, I say, chuck it.
Get a new one...or, it will leak again and then that's three shots attempted right?
It's not worth it.

 

[frogvtec]

Okay. Thanks for all the help, and older members just keeping things going. It means a lot.
I finally redid everything and no leaks thus far. Started it up for a bit, no leaks. Drove it a bit, and no leaks.
I'll proally drive it easy a bit, but not like I gotta gun the engine anyways.

Overall, I've learned that it's important to seat the gasket into the grooves and ensure that it stays put. To do so evenly put pressure to seat the gasket (like in the video), but of course on a clean cardboard and even surface. I did this 3-4 times and just made sure it was seated well. Flipped it over, dangled it a few times and it didn't fall. The reason being is when you try to put the valve cover back on, it'll take some time to wiggle around before it's aligned.

I would recommend changing all the grommet / spark plug tube seals / etc. in the kit. Might as well.

1) Do the spark plug seals as well. To get them out, I used THICKER cloth between prybar and seals to ensure NO metal to valve cover contact.
2) To get the new spark plug seals in, I lightly lubed the seals and sat them in position. Then used a rubber mallet and gently evenly hit them in with CLOTH in between contact. I would not use the old tubes as guides, it ruined the new ones for me.
3) Removing High Pressure Hose makes things way easier, but the o-ring needs to be replaced as mentioned in the above.
4) To get the NEW tube seals back on over, I gently lubed them / motor oil. Once I got it back over, I just hand tightened in sequence, each time ensuring the tube seals would slide over. You may need to help them in place after each location. Just make sure you don't torque down too fast or all the way with out at least going through ALL the sequence, as it should take a few times. But always make sure they are properly seated EVENLY before using torque.
5) I cured for 1 full day, before starting it.

 

[jimijam]

Glad you got it "cured"