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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all

I first want to say I'm not a car/audio guy at all. With that being said, I want to get a decent sound system in my new car. I have the '14 ex-l (so 7 speakers/sub preinstalled). I want to install an aftermarket sub/amp and possibly speakers down the road.

I went to crutchfields to see if they would do this, and the associate I talked to said they wouldn't install it because of cutting into wires and voiding warranty. They said no 'reputable' car service place would install them.

So i have a friend who says he can. He recommended getting a new battery first though.

Has anyone installed a new sub/speakers in the 14 ex-l. I haven't really found much anywhere about guides on this. I am looking to spend no more than 700.

Thanks for any help
 

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Ok, first off it can be done. I recommend keeping the factory head unit. Install an LOC such as the Audio Control LC7I or if you have the cash the Audison Bit 10. I am not too familiar with the Bit 10 but have heard great things. I put a 4 channel amp in mine (exl v6). I am powering Polk Dxi6501 components for the front and I bridged channel 3&4 for a sub. I am using a Sony 12" sub in a ported box. They are all running though the LC7I. Everything gets fed from the factory amp. My front components are being shipped right now so I can't comment on how they sound but the sub is great. The sub was about $75 and the box was 60. The LC7I was around $180 and the Amp was about $200. The components are on sale at Crutchfield for $140. All that is left is wiring and that is around $40. If you are planning on doing it yourself it is completely doable. It took me about an hour to pull the power wire for the amp and another hour to hook it all up. I also did a bunch of sound deadening. I built a custom amp rack so that took a bunch of time. It is custom cut and carpeted to match the sub box. It is a vertical design that will expose everything when you fold the seat down. It works well for what I need. At this time I am keeping the rears and factory sub connected to the stock system as the most important part is getting the fronts up to par. The entire system was designed to be built on the cheap. I wanted good sound, a quiet car and if I want to I can shake the windows. My only complaint is the size of the box takes up a fair amount of trunk space. The only way to resolve it would be to build a different a box or use a sealed box. I tried a sealed box and while it was punchy it did not get as loud as a ported box. The sound level was really noticeable when I changed boxes . Hope this helps!
 

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Nice post Wrench. Just started my install. Similar goals and equipment as you - LC7i, deadener, components, sub, amp.

Did you run all new speaker wire from the factory amp to the LC7i? Then another set of speaker wire back up to the crossover?
 

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Thank you, and yes. I am actually in the process of pulling wire now as the speakers are in transit. I am tapping into the midrange door speaker wire before it goes into the door. I plan on cutting the wire, tapping on to that and running the wire to and from the amp under the passenger side panels. If anybody has any better ideas please let me know. I am thinking of placing the crossovers behind the passenger kick panels to allow for possible adjustment. I was thinking of just tapping off of the midrange at the speaker (inside the door) but I am not sure if I will be able to fit 3 sets of 16ga wire inside the rubber sleeve.
 

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OP - I don't think a new battery is nececsary. $700 is doable. Kijiji is great for car audio. I would buy new speakers but look for used sub, box and amp. Many people like to upgrade a lot or get a new car and their old equipment becomes useless to them.
 

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I would have to agree on the battery part. Don't buy into the whole battery/capacitor part. That is only needed when all else fails. If you don't see a significant voltage drop when playing at high volume then it is not needed. As far as used components...buyer beware! There are a lot of people trying to pawn off their broken electronics. I personally would never buy subs or an amp used. I know too many people that have been burned. However, $700 is completely doable. Between a sub, box, amp, processor and front speakers, you will be very close to $700. Also, read everything you can and do the install yourself. Watch out for some audio shops, they can really rip you off
 

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However, $700 is completely doable. Between a sub, box, amp, processor and front speakers, you will be very close to $700.
$700 is doable on low end equipment but it depends what he is looking for and listening to. If you're a bass head like me, my $700 budget went out the window within 2 minutes. I would look into used products but ONLY at reputable stores. If you are just shooting for louder and enjoyable that is easily achievable with $700.
 

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I like my bass...sometimes. My set up is enough for my wife to hear me pulling down the street. I figure that is plenty loud
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thank you for all of the responses....

Wrench, did you have a problem with the sub box and access to the spare tire?

Also, is deadener a must have?

And, last question. I've been looking for more information/how to guide on this install. Has anyone found anything worthwhile?
 

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I do not have any access problems as far as a spare goes. That would have been a deal breaker for me. It actually worked out that the box only partially covers the hinged area. It still lifts up. As far as deadener, I would have to say yes it is needed. I would put some Dynamat or similar on any flat areas of metal. The trunk lid and fenders were do the most concern. The trunk lid I did with GT Mat and it worked great. That is an awesome company to work with and their materials are top notch. Everyone has their favorites and because of their customer service they are mine. I only had a little bit so I used it on the trunk lid and the front doors. Made a world of difference. On the inner rear fenders I ended up using frost king duct insulation. I will probably get beaten up for that by the audio gods but I have to say it seemed to work. I did the tap test on the panels and they had a very dull thud whereas before they sounded hollow. This seemed to increase the bass response but I'm sure I could do much more. I also added a layer of fiberfill to under the carpet panel on the trunk lid and some more jute carpet padding behind the trunk liner carpet. I also lined the spare well with frost king. That stuff is really cheap and for a very budget friendly build it worked. Hope this helps!
 

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You can find some great install tips on here. A few people have done some great write ups with excellent pics. That is how I did it and then just modified based on what I wanted. I think the hardest part is gaining the courage to open up a brand new car. My wife still doesn't understand.
 

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Ok, first off it can be done. I recommend keeping the factory head unit. Install an LOC such as the Audio Control LC7I or if you have the cash the Audison Bit 10. I am not too familiar with the Bit 10 but have heard great things. I put a 4 channel amp in mine (exl v6). I am powering Polk Dxi6501 components for the front and I bridged channel 3&4 for a sub. I am using a Sony 12" sub in a ported box. They are all running though the LC7I. Everything gets fed from the factory amp. My front components are being shipped right now so I can't comment on how they sound but the sub is great. The sub was about $75 and the box was 60. The LC7I was around $180 and the Amp was about $200. The components are on sale at Crutchfield for $140. All that is left is wiring and that is around $40. If you are planning on doing it yourself it is completely doable. It took me about an hour to pull the power wire for the amp and another hour to hook it all up. I also did a bunch of sound deadening. I built a custom amp rack so that took a bunch of time. It is custom cut and carpeted to match the sub box. It is a vertical design that will expose everything when you fold the seat down. It works well for what I need. At this time I am keeping the rears and factory sub connected to the stock system as the most important part is getting the fronts up to par. The entire system was designed to be built on the cheap. I wanted good sound, a quiet car and if I want to I can shake the windows. My only complaint is the size of the box takes up a fair amount of trunk space. The only way to resolve it would be to build a different a box or use a sealed box. I tried a sealed box and while it was punchy it did not get as loud as a ported box. The sound level was really noticeable when I changed boxes . Hope this helps!
Where did you tap into for the LC7i?
 

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I took the speaker wires and ran them directly to the LC7I. Basically just unplug your speakers, take those wires and run them to the LC7I. From the LC7I, run to the amp and from the amp to the speakers.
 

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Well just got home and surprise surprise, my polk components are here. Along with that is the 2 rolls of mass loaded vinyl that I bought from Home Depot. I bought 2 rolls. They are 4'x8'. That should be enough for my doors and my wife's floor in her van. Now I have to resist the temptation to start pulling the car apart to install the speakers. I'm tempted even though it's 5 degrees and I'm sick. But damn I want to hear these babies. I will post back once they are in. Any questions just ask!
 

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I took the speaker wires and ran them directly to the LC7I. Basically just unplug your speakers, take those wires and run them to the LC7I. From the LC7I, run to the amp and from the amp to the speakers.
so you fed the factory seaker wires bacnk into the cabin? they are long enough to reach the trunk?
 

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I am actually working on it now. I am planning on tapping into the factory amp outputs behind the dash and running to and from the new amp in the trunk. You will have to use some new wire to lengthen it.
 

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Ok here is a little follow up. I decided yo brave the cold (5 degrees) and try to run some wire. I was worried about how I would run the wire in to the door. I really didn't want to use the factory skinny wire and wanted to run my own 16ga wire. My plan was to keep the crossover inside the car in case I needed to make any adjustments. I started investigating the rubber boot for the door and found out that the molex plug at the body of the car has a space towards the bottom. I used this space to run the wire out from the original door speaker and the two wires in for the new amped door speaker and tweeter. I am just going to disconnect the factory tweeter and cap the lines. If you disconnect the boot at the car frame and the door you will have plenty of room to fish the 3 pairs of wire through. That went pretty smooth. The worst part was trying to fit the boot back over the white sleeve that goes into the car. I found that if you pop that sleeve out it makes it easier then just pop the sleeve back in. Here is my wiring...
I used a metra plug from Crutchfield to go from the factory door speakers plug. Connect to those wires and run to your LC7I. From there I went from the LC7I to the amp input (RCA cables). Then from the amp output to the polk crossovers (mounted inside the car around the passenger kick panels). From the crossovers it gets split to the new tweeters and the new door speakers.
I have not installed the new speakers yet. I am taking my time with the wiring because I want it to be hidden. I am running it all inside the kick plates and under the dash. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to spend some more time and finish the siring and maybe even get a speaker installed. At the same time I have the door panel I am adding a layer of MLV to hopefully deaden dome sound. I have already done the Dynamat treatment. I strongly recommend using Crutchfield for your speaker needs because they include speaker spacers and a wiring harness. Really helpful. I will report back with the results!
 

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Ok here is a little follow up. I decided yo brave the cold (5 degrees) and try to run some wire. I was worried about how I would run the wire in to the door. I really didn't want to use the factory skinny wire and wanted to run my own 16ga wire. My plan was to keep the crossover inside the car in case I needed to make any adjustments. I started investigating the rubber boot for the door and found out that the molex plug at the body of the car has a space towards the bottom. I used this space to run the wire out from the original door speaker and the two wires in for the new amped door speaker and tweeter. I am just going to disconnect the factory tweeter and cap the lines. If you disconnect the boot at the car frame and the door you will have plenty of room to fish the 3 pairs of wire through. That went pretty smooth. The worst part was trying to fit the boot back over the white sleeve that goes into the car. I found that if you pop that sleeve out it makes it easier then just pop the sleeve back in. Here is my wiring...
I used a metra plug from Crutchfield to go from the factory door speakers plug. Connect to those wires and run to your LC7I. From there I went from the LC7I to the amp input (RCA cables). Then from the amp output to the polk crossovers (mounted inside the car around the passenger kick panels). From the crossovers it gets split to the new tweeters and the new door speakers.
I have not installed the new speakers yet. I am taking my time with the wiring because I want it to be hidden. I am running it all inside the kick plates and under the dash. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to spend some more time and finish the siring and maybe even get a speaker installed. At the same time I have the door panel I am adding a layer of MLV to hopefully deaden dome sound. I have already done the Dynamat treatment. I strongly recommend using Crutchfield for your speaker needs because they include speaker spacers and a wiring harness. Really helpful. I will report back with the results!

My plan is kind of the same as yours except adding in a DSP with TA. I ordered and am awaiting for the 3 harness to arrive. I do not want to cut wires on a car that only has 100 miles..lol


I just need to know the wiring schematic for the radio plug and I will be good. Also you need to put the LC7i as close to the head unit as possible. If you put it in the rear you will get engine noise. The Honda and Acura guys have been going rounds and round with engine noise because of that for years. I am wiring in a Audio Control Matrix Plus behind the passenger kick panel where the factory amp is located.


My plan is to make a harness from the factory wiring to the radio and build 3 sets of RCA's Front,Rear, and sub and plug them into the Matrix Plus in the kick panel and run 3 RCA's from the Matrix Plus to the rear to the Audison BitOne and then to the 2 JL HD900/5's.
 

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Ok so this is my plan. I ordered 3 metra wiring harnesses from amazon for 33.00 shipped. I took wires from one and fully populated the other one to have 24 pins for the female and male. I will then solder all the cables form the female end to the male end and solder 5 rca's as well. The RCA's will go to a Matrix Plus Line driver to feed my Audison Bit One and to each JL HD Amp. An Audiocontrol LC7i or LC8i is NOT needed as the inputs are low level so a line driver would do us better in our cars since we would be eliminating the factory amp in all. IMO if you tap into the wires after the amp you can introduce noise into the system. This has been dicussed plenty o nthe Acurta forums and DIYMOBILE audio website.


Check out this build for ex.. They are using ARC Line drivers. The signal from our radios is Very weak and a Line driver would be the best for us.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum...2013-accord-sedan-illusion-arc-alpine-rf.html


I will be posting pics of my build as well. I just picked up a new 2014 Accord EXL with 30 miles and already have it in pieces. Let the fun times roll :).
 
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