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Elvira - the car
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15mA draw does not add up to going from 12.6V fully charged to 12.1V or 12.2V within 10-12 hours. What do you get when you disconnect the battery from the car completely? Let's eliminate the battery as a possible source of the problem.
OP stated early on this was a new battery along with the alternator.
That said, even a new battery can be bad out-of-the-box. Shorted plates would self drain a battery. Debris in the walls between cells could conduct, OP should try an internal resistance meter to check the internal resistance like one of the SOLAR B-something meters.

I'm thinking his sticking door/trunk actuator MAY be causing the aftermarket alarm to keep resetting something and waking the ECU up constantly.
If the actuator sticks in the powered open/unlatch state it may be pulling current without realizing it. Maybe. If I understand the OP description of the sticking actuator.
Maybe the remote start is stuck in some state thinking it is frigid cold outside and keeps trying to start the engine/spin the starter!!!!
 
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Unswitched power is constant power, always hot, direct to the battery. Switched power is anything that powers on with the ignition switch. When that switch is off no power should be going through.

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Discussion Starter #23
15mA draw does not add up to going from 12.6V fully charged to 12.1V or 12.2V within 10-12 hours. What do you get when you disconnect the battery from the car completely? Let's eliminate the battery as a possible source of the problem.
Haven't tried it but I got the car back today from the dealer. They only recorded a 0.14V drop from 12.6V to 12.46V in 48 hours exact of the car sitting. Totally shocked. So obviously the car started the first time and numerous times no problem. Dealer confirmed the battery is perfect. They offered to keep the car until Monday and then start it 72 hours after but to me there was no point, I may as well do it myself and especially since they started the car after 48 hours with no issues and only a 0.14V drop (which sounds normal), an extra day of the car sitting ain't going to make a difference.

I have the car at home now and I am going to try the same thing myself, 48 hours sitting and see what reading I get on the DMM on Sunday at 3:30pm.Then if it's the same, I will extend it to 3 days, 4 days and see the voltage readings. But I won't start the car, I'm just going to do readings and record them.

I am swapping my Compustar brain, handed it to a friend today and he is warranting it for me for another. He was telling me how the brain is likely bad as he has seen quite a few go bad (and cause battery drain) after the car has been boosted once. And on this brain, I boosted the old battery at least 6 times in the 4.5 years using the battery. So very high chance it is the brain. No charge and the brain is already out so I figure why not replace it and get it out the question completely. I should have the new one back and installed in a week. Then will go from there and see what I want to do with my dashcam. It's either I get in the habit of unplugging and plugging it every single time I drive or I replace it with something else. I did some research and I know my dashcam has an issue with still drawing power even when powered off and the only way to cut power is by physically unplugging it. I couldn't imagine having to plug and unplug a dashcam everytime you get in the car (would always forget and it's tedious) but that's just me. I may just replace it, or maybe even live without one for the time being.

So this is my plan for right now. One step at a time but I am a lot closer right now than I was 3 days ago.
 

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Does your dash cam have a parking mode, does it run on battery or does it have a second power cable to record parking lot incidents while engine is off? If you want it disconnected while parked, instead of unplugging, could use a nice little switch.
 

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Lemon? It is the aftermarket stuff molesting your car.
 

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I wish I could swap my brain out!

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Your dashcam can be wired to the 12v socket, it shuts off with the car in my 2012, yours is likely the same. Also, after you test your 72h, start reconnecting your aftermarket devices one at a time and wait 48h between each one. Hopefully it's the brain that's the issue but this will rule out the other devices as well. Good luck!
 

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ECU rarely goes bad on Honda's. I don't know the last time I heard someone replacing an ECU on this board. Your friend has no basis on why the ECU is bad and just throwing parts at it for no reason.

DISCONNECT ALL aftermarket stuff, including all the ground connections going to existing ground points, re-tighten all the involved ground bolts and the problem will be fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Does your dash cam have a parking mode, does it run on battery or does it have a second power cable to record parking lot incidents while engine is off? If you want it disconnected while parked, instead of unplugging, could use a nice little switch.
Yes my dashcam (front and back) have a parking mode but even if you disable it in the app, the cam still draws power. I have the Lukas 7950 (it's about 5 years old) and many on dashcamtalk.com have reported that even when they have it in Accessory mode (where it only turns on when the car is running), it still draws power and the power doesn't cut off after. So the only way to fix it is to unplug the camera each time. I really don't want to buy a new dashcam (been having too many expenses this month) but if I have to unplug it each time then I will just wire an on/off switch into it so instead of having to reach up each time to the rear view mirror and unplug/plug it in, I would rather have a push button mounted inside my driver side dash to cut off power each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Your dashcam can be wired to the 12v socket, it shuts off with the car in my 2012, yours is likely the same. Also, after you test your 72h, start reconnecting your aftermarket devices one at a time and wait 48h between each one. Hopefully it's the brain that's the issue but this will rule out the other devices as well. Good luck!
I just tested it, checked the battery after the car has been sitting for 50 hours exact. 12.64V, that means no drainage. Wow, nice! So that means that it's either the Compustar brain or the dashcam that is drawing the power. I am not going to drive it for another 24 hours and will do another check with the DMM tomorrow at 72 hours but if I had no drainage in 50 hours then I don't see why I would all of a sudden get any now.

I am much closer to finding out the problem today than I was 3 days ago.

But now after thinking about it and how nice it is to not have any drainage now. Even though I have a brand new compustar brain coming back this week, I am re-considering putting it back in since it draws 35ma. So that would mean that my battery will start draining even (though not as slow) but a 50ma draw is more than 3x the amount of draw than 15ma, so should I expect my battery to all of a sudden start to drain again with the Compustar back in?
 

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In my opinion, you shouldn't fix it if it ain't broke. If it's fine now without the Compustar, I would NOT open that can of worms again. You certainly don't need it to have a car that works, even though it may seem like a fun toy.

- Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
In my opinion, you shouldn't fix it if it ain't broke. If it's fine now without the Compustar, I would NOT open that can of worms again. You certainly don't need it to have a car that works, even though it may seem like a fun toy.

- Jack
I know what you mean. The only thing is (and already starting to), I will miss my remote starter especially come winter. I literally use it every single time I start the car, year round. But 35ma is excessive draw for a remote starter and I was told Honda's have a limit of 50ma that the car should be kept under to avoid draw. I mean if I am running errands or the car is still hot, then I don't remote start but it's so nice being able to start the car and just hope in shortly after and drive right off and not have to sit and wait the 45-60 secs or whatever for the rpms to drop below 1500rpm (I never put the car into D when cold starting until the rpms drop below 1500).

For the dashcam, this is an easy fix. Just add an on/off switch or go without it (which would be tough since it's cheap insurance) and it would suck if I got into an accident all of a sudden (knock on wood).

Do 8th gen Hondas have a factory remote start? I wonder if I can get an OEM starter put in. That way, it will for sure not draw an extra 35ma.

15ma draw now.
50ma draw if I put the new Compustar brain back in when I get it is more than 3 times the draw. So I am worried about drainage again even though the dealer told me the car should be able to handle up to 50ma safety and not cause any battery drain. Anything over and it will cause the battery to drain.
And no higher draw if I add an on/off switch for the dashcam since i would only use it while driving. So this I would be willing to live with though I will admit, it will be very easy to forget to turn the dashcam on and off each time and it would be tedious after awhile.

If the new Compustar brain can be put in and not cause any drain, then I will do it, otherwise if not, then I am willing to (though it will really suck) live without a remote starter if it means that I never have to plug my car in anymore and excessively monitor how long it's sat for each time.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
OP stated early on this was a new battery along with the alternator.
That said, even a new battery can be bad out-of-the-box. Shorted plates would self drain a battery. Debris in the walls between cells could conduct, OP should try an internal resistance meter to check the internal resistance like one of the SOLAR B-something meters.

I'm thinking his sticking door/trunk actuator MAY be causing the aftermarket alarm to keep resetting something and waking the ECU up constantly.
If the actuator sticks in the powered open/unlatch state it may be pulling current without realizing it. Maybe. If I understand the OP description of the sticking actuator.
Maybe the remote start is stuck in some state thinking it is frigid cold outside and keeps trying to start the engine/spin the starter!!!!
I tried to get the dealer to check the door lock actuators and trunk latch but they didn't get any draw from anywhere in the car so they said it would be a waste of time.

They did confirm that the battery is good though. I even swapped the already new one from Costco last weekend just to be safe and get a fresh one with zero deep cycles on it.
 
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There's no harm in putting the new brain in when it comes and seeing how much juice it draws after leaving the car alone for 48-72h. My wife's old MPV had a Compustar remote start and we've left it in airport parking for 2 weeks in the winter and had no issue starting the van after that much time. You should be fine after 2-3 days, and if you're not then get a different brand or leave it out.

The dashcam can just be wired to a switched source, easy fix but you lose parking mode.
 

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Ask yourself why you need remote start? A car warms up way faster when driven, especially during the winter. I always see remote start as a novelty feature, it does almost nothing in warming or cooling the car quickly. On top of being able to start it while you sit in the comfort of your home or office, it's actually eating a ton of gas with the catalytic converters in open loop mode and fuel trims of 12 to 15% trying hard to warm up the engine to operating temp between 1000 to 1500 RPM. I would just rip that out and save yourself a load of white hair then this is solved.
 

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Tyson, I just added a "like" to t-rd's post. I see the Compustar remote start as a novelty too. Modern cars DO NOT have to idle before driving even if you live in very cold climates. Yes, the cabin will be cold, but I could live with that. The only advice I've seen about driving a cold car is to not drive it aggressively until it has warmed up. That seems easy advice to follow.

Yes, the newer vehicles have remote start built in. I disabled it on both my vehicles, on the off chance that they might start when I didn't want them to. Of course, living in Aridzona, I don't have the cold days you do, but I'm in the mountains where it snows and it gets down to around 15 F in the winters. I say leave the Compustar out of the car. Connect the dashcam to a circuit that is only active with the ignition on if that is a worry.

I'm delighted you appear to have found the source of the problem though. I'm on your side with keeping the car. No reason to dump it, especially since it is not the car's fault.

- Jack
 

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We gots to change the title of this thread. Gots to.
 
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Discussion Starter #39
There's no harm in putting the new brain in when it comes and seeing how much juice it draws after leaving the car alone for 48-72h. My wife's old MPV had a Compustar remote start and we've left it in airport parking for 2 weeks in the winter and had no issue starting the van after that much time. You should be fine after 2-3 days, and if you're not then get a different brand or leave it out.

The dashcam can just be wired to a switched source, easy fix but you lose parking mode.
That's what I will likely do but if my starter was resalable (as in a good amount of money coming back), I would consider selling it. The only thing is, there's no point in paying someone to remove the wires as I may as well just keep the wiring in there, and then sell the brain and fob if I did for less. Because say down the road I decide to get another one, I would at least have the wiring already in.

I don't regret putting in a remote starter when I first got the car (it was my first upgrade), but if it's the matter of having my battery die after 2 days or being able to let the car sit for much longer without drain, then I will live without the remote starter every single time, not even a question.

At this point, I don't want to spend more on my car. Just put in a new muffler this week and surprisingly really enjoying the mod, so don't want to spend more.

The dashcam is an easy fix. The only thing is I would hate to have to push the on/off switch every single time I get in and out of the car. I would forget a bunch of times and it would get tedious. Having an on/off switch for my LED fogs isn't a big deal because I only use them at night.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Ask yourself why you need remote start? A car warms up way faster when driven, especially during the winter. I always see remote start as a novelty feature, it does almost nothing in warming or cooling the car quickly. On top of being able to start it while you sit in the comfort of your home or office, it's actually eating a ton of gas with the catalytic converters in open loop mode and fuel trims of 12 to 15% trying hard to warm up the engine to operating temp between 1000 to 1500 RPM. I would just rip that out and save yourself a load of white hair then this is solved.
Do I need remote start? No but here in Canada the winters are brutal (though I don't drive my Honda in much in winters since I have a beater truck). If there is one thing that Canadians do to their car as in adding in after they buy it, it's almost always a remote starter. But since I have two cars and the Honda isn't my main for winter time, that would give me a reason to ditch the remote start for good and save all the strain on my brand new alternator and battery.

The main reason why I've used it to cold start my car every single time for the past 5+ years is because it lets you drive off right away, otherwise if you key start it when cold, you are sitting inside for a minute to let the rpms drop below 1500 (and minutes long if it's the winter).

Also, (just a small thing but extremely annoying), why the heck does the trunk release latch in the drivers side not work when using the OEM keyless entry remote? Having to turn off the ignition, take the key out, just to pop the trunk from inside the car is annoying.

I know where you are coming from though in why risk putting a problem back into the car when (if it's the problem), is already out and the battery drain problem that I've been having for 5+ years has been fixed and finally put to an end. All I have to say is that I'm so enjoying not having to constantly monitor every time how long the car has been sitting for, when to plug it in, and plug it in. I can finally let the car sit if needed for days and not have to keep track of this stuff and worry about my battery draining and even worse, putting the strain on the alternator by all the deep charging of the battery.
 
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