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Discussion Starter #41
Tyson, I just added a "like" to t-rd's post. I see the Compustar remote start as a novelty too. Modern cars DO NOT have to idle before driving even if you live in very cold climates. Yes, the cabin will be cold, but I could live with that. The only advice I've seen about driving a cold car is to not drive it aggressively until it has warmed up. That seems easy advice to follow.

Yes, the newer vehicles have remote start built in. I disabled it on both my vehicles, on the off chance that they might start when I didn't want them to. Of course, living in Aridzona, I don't have the cold days you do, but I'm in the mountains where it snows and it gets down to around 15 F in the winters. I say leave the Compustar out of the car. Connect the dashcam to a circuit that is only active with the ignition on if that is a worry.

I'm delighted you appear to have found the source of the problem though. I'm on your side with keeping the car. No reason to dump it, especially since it is not the car's fault.

- Jack
It's been almost a week since i removed the starter brain and it felt awkward at first but I am getting used to the OEM remote for all operation. Really don't like not being able to pop the trunk from the drivers side latch though as popping the trunk from inside while the car is running is something I do all the time when picking up people, stuff.

Does the car's ECU need time to re-learn after each time you put in and remove stuff from the car like remote start?

If this car came with remote start, I wouldn't have bothered with the Compustar. Sure factory starters may not have the greatest range but they guarantee no issues or risk that you take with 3rd party stuff like a heavy 35ma draw (which I consider to be very heavy). Obviously I would prefer to have a 15ma draw than a 50ma draw.

Right now my dashcam is connected so that it's only active when the ignition is on. But here's the thing, my dashcam is a buggy piece of crap. Many owners have reported that even if they have the dashcam connected so it only draws power when the car is running, that the camera still draws power even when off. The only way to fix this issue is to either get a different camera altogether or unplug/plug it in each time or run it through an on/off switch. Now, even though many owners have reported this with their cameras, I may or may not have the issue with mine. I remember doing a test a few years back with my camera and running in accesory mode, it honestly barely drew any battery power in a 1-2 day span. I'm actually going to give this test another go now with the Compustar out to find out for sure if I have a good unit in that it actually cuts off power when ignition is off or whether i would have to scrap it and buy another camera if I want to use it again (which I hope is not the case).
 

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I drive off within 30 seconds of starting my Accord and I'm outside of Chicago, it's just as cold and sometimes even colder than Canada. The engine warms up way faster within minutes of driving instead of it idling in the parking lot for a long time eating up extra fuel in low RPM with the catalytic converters in open loop dumping large amounts of fuel like I said. If you don't believe that remote start is the issue then keep troubleshooting thinking it's a lemon car.

Canadians love snow tires, I went to Toronto just about every month for 6 years. Remote start? I don't see them in every car there.
 

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I Really don't like not being able to pop the trunk from the drivers side latch though as popping the trunk from inside while the car is running is something I do all the time when picking up people, stuff.
Doesn't your car have a manual trunk opening down next to the driver's side door? Just use that.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Doesn't your car have a manual trunk opening down next to the driver's side door? Just use that.
Yes but it won't pull up ever since removing the Compustar. Seems locked but its not. What key goes in it? My ignition and valet key wont fit.
 

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Yes but it won't pull up ever since removing the Compustar. Seems locked but its not. What key goes in it? My ignition and valet key wont fit.
The ignition key should fit and unlock the trunk release lever. The valet key might fit, but it's not designed to unlock the trunk lever. If the valet key unlocked the trunk lever, there'd be no point in having a valet key.

Did somebody change the lock on the trunk release lever? Is there a 3rd key somewhere, or...?
 

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When I bought my car, the lock was rusted in place. It was still under warranty so the dealer loosened it up for me. It's the ignition key that fits. IIRC, you can unscrew and pull up that whole mechanism and maybe even disconnect the cables and work on it outside of the car even when it's in the locked position.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
The ignition key should fit and unlock the trunk release lever. The valet key might fit, but it's not designed to unlock the trunk lever. If the valet key unlocked the trunk lever, there'd be no point in having a valet key.

Did somebody change the lock on the trunk release lever? Is there a 3rd key somewhere, or...?
I tried both keys and it fits in the lever but when i turn in the direction to unlock, nothing happens, the lever still won't pull up. Weird but I know it's because my Compustar brain is out of the car because when I connected it back in last week for a day, that lever started pulling up and working again.
 

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I tried both keys and it fits in the lever but when i turn in the direction to unlock, nothing happens, the lever still won't pull up. Weird but I know it's because my Compustar brain is out of the car because when I connected it back in last week for a day, that lever started pulling up and working again.
Maybe you want to reconnect the Compustar again, at least long enough to release the lever, and then follow suggestions from @PaulG to work on it...?
 

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Sounds like there's an actuator on the trunk release cable, it's probably situated back where the trunk latches.
 

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can we consider this solved?
 

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I tried both keys and it fits in the lever but when i turn in the direction to unlock, nothing happens, the lever still won't pull up. Weird but I know it's because my Compustar brain is out of the car because when I connected it back in last week for a day, that lever started pulling up and working again.
Looks like your aftermarket trunk release has modified the factory trunk release so it will not work manually. You have to find out how they modified the trunk release for the compustar installation and reverse it. Good luck, you might try googling for an installation instruction sheet to see what modifications were done.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Got a brand new brain from Compustar 2 days ago and had it put in and programmed same day.

Tada, I knew it. The brain was bad.

New dashcam, with parking mode off wired to ignition.
New compustar brain

No more battery drain.

Tested 12.62V after 24 hours and 12.59V after 48 hours sitting.

Sure the battery won't last as long sitting compared to the computar out of the car but at least it won't be in days and I shouldn't have issues having the car sit for a few days every now and then and not need to plug it in anymore.
Winter I will plug in more so it doesn't drain from the cold and I don't drive it near as often then.

Thanks for all the replies and tips, really appreciate it. Just glad this is all finally over. No more deep charging and strain on my new alternator and don't have to plug in the car everyday.

I somehow managed to get the truck release in the driver side working again last week when I was putting in my dashcam, took the door seal off and the lower plastic panel on driver sides and when I put it back on, the latch worked and trunk popped again. Wierd, not sure what caused it but a very odd issue to have.
 

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It was an aftermarket accessory causing the drain, it always is.

thanks for posting the solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
It was an aftermarket accessory causing the drain, it always is.

thanks for posting the solution.
Yes, thanks and if it wasn't for me running into this certified 12V tech/installer who told me about Compustar brains going bad after the car battery has been boosted once, I would likely never figure this out. I went through and talked to at least 5 different techs/installers including the dealer and nobody but this guy knew about the Compustar brains going bad and causing battery drain when the car battery has been boosted.

I was told to go with an idata remote starter because Compustars drain too much.
I was told it wasn't the Compustar but i need a high output alternator and to get a marine battery instead of Costco's Kirkland battery.
I was told that I need to install a second battery in the car.
I was told that it was my car amp.

None of this was correct and this is advice coming from shops and installers.
 
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