It's been almost a week since i removed the starter brain and it felt awkward at first but I am getting used to the OEM remote for all operation. Really don't like not being able to pop the trunk from the drivers side latch though as popping the trunk from inside while the car is running is something I do all the time when picking up people, stuff.Tyson, I just added a "like" to t-rd's post. I see the Compustar remote start as a novelty too. Modern cars DO NOT have to idle before driving even if you live in very cold climates. Yes, the cabin will be cold, but I could live with that. The only advice I've seen about driving a cold car is to not drive it aggressively until it has warmed up. That seems easy advice to follow.
Yes, the newer vehicles have remote start built in. I disabled it on both my vehicles, on the off chance that they might start when I didn't want them to. Of course, living in Aridzona, I don't have the cold days you do, but I'm in the mountains where it snows and it gets down to around 15 F in the winters. I say leave the Compustar out of the car. Connect the dashcam to a circuit that is only active with the ignition on if that is a worry.
I'm delighted you appear to have found the source of the problem though. I'm on your side with keeping the car. No reason to dump it, especially since it is not the car's fault.
Does the car's ECU need time to re-learn after each time you put in and remove stuff from the car like remote start?
If this car came with remote start, I wouldn't have bothered with the Compustar. Sure factory starters may not have the greatest range but they guarantee no issues or risk that you take with 3rd party stuff like a heavy 35ma draw (which I consider to be very heavy). Obviously I would prefer to have a 15ma draw than a 50ma draw.
Right now my dashcam is connected so that it's only active when the ignition is on. But here's the thing, my dashcam is a buggy piece of crap. Many owners have reported that even if they have the dashcam connected so it only draws power when the car is running, that the camera still draws power even when off. The only way to fix this issue is to either get a different camera altogether or unplug/plug it in each time or run it through an on/off switch. Now, even though many owners have reported this with their cameras, I may or may not have the issue with mine. I remember doing a test a few years back with my camera and running in accesory mode, it honestly barely drew any battery power in a 1-2 day span. I'm actually going to give this test another go now with the Compustar out to find out for sure if I have a good unit in that it actually cuts off power when ignition is off or whether i would have to scrap it and buy another camera if I want to use it again (which I hope is not the case).