[t-rd]

Sounds like dry metal moving on dry metal.

The things that move when you turn the wheel (besides the rack gear):
- inner tie rods on the steering rack
- outer tie rods on the steering rack
- upper ball joint
- lower ball joint
- outboard joint of the cv axle, not like the issue since I don't hear a clicking sound

The whole knuckle pivots on the upper and lower ball joints. One of the ball joints is completed rusted out or dried up, causing the noise. I suggest you starting with the outer tie rods, which is the easiest to change.

** you will need an alignment once you work on one of the above components **

 

[t-rd]

If you get the entire knuckle, that's $350 on its own, I would not do that. Get OEM lower ball joint, OEM upper control arm + ball joint already pressed in. The OEM lower ball joint is $60, upper control arm with ball joint already pressed in is $85. Outer tie rod you can go aftermarket, Moog with grease fitting, about $35 each. OEM ball joints only, DO NOT use aftermarket, heard too many stories here. The lower ball joint, is not pressed into the front lower control arm, it's pressed into the knuckle. However, you should consider changing out the front lower control arms anyway, this most likely explains the shaking as the compliance bushing is torn and moving inside the socket. Since that whole area has to be torn open, just get it done at once. Also check the wheel bearing while the whole knuckle is out.

Remember, you'll need an alignment right afterwards, or the tires will wear out. The outer tie rod change throws toe alignment seriously off no matter how good you eye ball the adjustment.

 

[t-rd]

With front end in the air, grab wheel by 12/6 o'clock and 3/9 o'clock positions and rock the wheel, you should get no movement. If wheel moves in the 12/6 o'clock position, then upper or lower ball joint is bad. If the wheel moves in the 3/9 position, then the outer tie rod is bad. If you try to turn the wheels back and forth in the air, you will most likely hear no sound because the suspension isn't under stress. If a ball joint is bad, don't wait to get it fixed, or you'll end up on the side of the road very fast. Basically the ball joint breaks in half, wheel turns into the wheel well in some strange position then clunk, thud. It'll be a huge amount of damage by the time you stop and get out of the car to check what happened.

 

[t-rd]

The rust is normal, however, I am seeing evidence of non-OEM lower ball joint, and they look like the dreaded Moog. The rust pattern of the lower control arm does tell a tale, it has been knocked and worked on to get the ball joint out. See the patch of rust around it? I see "ribs" on the side of the ball joint that resembles that of Moog's design. 99%, this might be your issue. My lower ball joint, pressed in, looks nothing like that. The OEM lower ball joint has no gap in between the boot and the knuckle's slot. Also, it looks like the boot has lifted and moisture and dirt has been getting in.

I suggest you:
- change out the lower ball joints, while the entire knuckle is out of the car
- change out the upper control arm + ball joint as one assembly
- change out the lower control arm since the compliance bushing is torn

The outer tie rods look fine, changing that one is up to you. The rest looks ok, I do see a huge oil slick on the side of the transmission, you might want to look into that. There shouldn't be engine oil on that side, that's the transmission.

 

[t-rd]

oil slick I was talking about. That entire side should be free of oil, unless someone just carelessly spilled some trans fluid while filling. All the components with the seals are on the left / passenger side of the car.

 

[t-rd]

Good deal, good call on the end links yes. You might have to cut those off, as I had to on my dad's 08 Accord. The nuts were completely rusted and seized.

What brand of ball joint did you get? We all recommend OEM or at least Beck/Arnley made by Sankei 555 of Japan.

 

[t-rd]

aftermarket bjs

 

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Return the Moog ball joint, that is what you have right now, and is what's causing the noise. OEM only. You will spend $60 extra but it will be $60 well spent.