[JBeRRy]

I have an 04 accord 4cyl 4dr

I get a loud metal creaking sound when I turn the wheel at a certain point and if I am driving over slightly bumpy roads, like driving through a parking lot. I have a couple friends who say I just need to replace my upper control arm and not to worry about it. I am no mechanic but after watching some videos on replacing this part I cant imagine this part alone is causing this noise. I also get this noise when I get in and out of the car.

I do not know if this is relevant but I also get a lot of shake in the car (steering wheel and in the pedals) when braking, and a little bit of shake while driving at highway speeds. I replaced all 4 rotors and 2 rear calipers last year so I don't think it is caused by warped rotors but like I said im no mechanic.

Just looking for some opinions of people who have a lot of experience with 7th gen accords. I put a google drive link below of a video I took while parking at petsmart. The VERY last whine you hear just before the video cuts off is my crybaby pup who doesn't like when we go to petsmart so you can ignore that one : )

Thanks.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B40gM6b_imeCZ1k3RnlscTdIRTA

 

[JBeRRy]

Does the noise occur while turning the wheel in park? Something is worn or rusty. Could be anything from lower ball joint, upper control arm, strut, tie rods, etc. Did you replace the struts by any chance? Did it start when cold? I had some weird struts that would make a similar sound only when cold.

How many miles on the car? I'd say most likely lower ball joint. Do you hear a clunk while going over bumps?

It has only been noticeable since summer this year and we haven't had any really cold days yet but I feel confident saying it happens in both warm and cold environments.

I do hear the sound if I am not moving and turn the wheel. It seems like it only creaks like that when I turn the wheel past a certain point (maybe with the wheels ~20 or 30 degrees from straight) after that point there is no sound.

(With the help of a mechanic friend)I replaced the lower ball joint and one of the bushings on the lower control arm last year with moog so I dont think that is the issue.

The car is coming up on 200K miles and I dont think I hear a clunk going over bumps but I have also not been listening for that type of sound so I am not sure.

 

[JBeRRy]

What does your mechanic friend think it is ? I get a similar sound, more of a groaning (not as loud as yours though) when turning the steering wheel on hotter days, mechanic thinks it is a worn rack. How offen do you change the PS fluid, use correct type ?

My friends say I need to replace the upper control arm. After looking into it, the whole process seems easy enough and cheap but I dont feel like the upper control arm is making all that noise in that specific way. But like I mentioned, Im no mechanic so my opinion doesnt hold much weight.

Iv never changed my ps fluid, I did however have a leak for a while and I found it was due to a bad oring. Just a few bucks for the oring at the dealership and maybe 2 minutes under the hood fixed the problem. When I have had to add ps fluid because of this leak I always used whatever was recommended.

 

[JBeRRy]

You'd be surprised. Moog lower ball joints on these Accords suck and usually don't last more than a year. Get an OEM or Saknei 555 ball joint.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Hond...ef=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1508196438&sr=8-36&keywords=2005+accord+lower+ball+joint

Im thinking if the ball joint is bad I will just go with a new complete lower. I considered buying both complete lower and upper but I figured I would ask for help here first.

 

[JBeRRy]

Sounds like dry metal moving on dry metal.

The things that move when you turn the wheel (besides the rack gear):
- inner tie rods on the steering rack
- outer tie rods on the steering rack
- upper ball joint
- lower ball joint
- outboard joint of the cv axle, not like the issue since I don't hear a clicking sound

The whole knuckle pivots on the upper and lower ball joints. One of the ball joints is completed rusted out or dried up, causing the noise. I suggest you starting with the outer tie rods, which is the easiest to change.

** you will need an alignment once you work on one of the above components **

Thanks for the solid info. I will look into the examining tie rods. In your opinion, would you just get a new upper and lower control arm complete with bushings/ball joints, swap out both and just be done with it? Would you be worried about driving this everyday and on the highways?

 

[JBeRRy]

Thanks for all the great input. I will jack the car up take some pictures and wiggle some stuff around tomorrow after work. Ill post the pictures and if I can narrow down anything further.

Thanks again!

 

[JBeRRy]

So I tried to move the wheel 3 to 9 and 12 to 6 while it was in the air and I wasn't able to get much of any movement out of it. Everything seemed sturdy and I did not hear any additional noises.

As mentioned by t-rd there was no noise when turning the steering wheel while it was in the air.

The part that I think is strange now, is that once I lowered the car back down and drove it again, there is no more noise. I can turn all the way left and right and I do not hear the noise anymore.

I tried to take a couple videos but they are terrible because Im trying to hold my phone in one hand and move the tire with my other hand. But I did also take some photos as well.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B40gM6b_imeCbTFPUHktR3p3TDg

This link should have a few pictures that I took and 2 videos. Again the videos are kind of junk and shaky when I try to move the wheel.

 

[JBeRRy]

Looks like the bottom of your lower ball joint is rusted to heck.

so I think I am going to replace the lower control arm with a new complete control arm, and while im at it I think I will replace the upper.

Any tips or recommendations?

 

[JBeRRy]

Holy Cow your awesome.

I went ahead and ordered new complete upper(with ball joint) and lower control arms (with bushings) and new lower ball joint. I also picked up a new stabilizer link in case I brake the old one during removal. I saw a video of someone who had trouble, I figured better to have it and not need it. My buddy who is an actual mechanic is going to help me this weekend with the replacements.

I did not buy tie rods because I figured thats easy enough I can do solo and I can have a good look while the the control arm is off.

I dont know where the oil came from but I assume it is from being sloppy with fluids over the years because iv never done anything with the transmission in the 11 or 12 years iv had this car.

Thank you guys so much for all of your help. I will post results after this weekend!

 

[JBeRRy]

You guys are going to be disappointed in me but I got a new moog ball joint.

Maybe I will have a look and see what is available locally and consider doing a return on the moog.

In any case I will post pictures this weekend after the replacement.

 

[JBeRRy]

Ok so the install went well for the most part. Took about 4 hours altogether including having to run out and get the ball joint pressed into the spindle and a stop at the dealer because we had to cut the bolt that holds the strut fork to the spindle, that motherf***** just would not come out.

I do not hear the sound anymore and I have drove on the high way as well as a cobblestone roads last night that were very bumpy. The shake I was getting at highway speeds and during braking is significantly better but I still get the shake during breaking. Had to install a new (ABS?) sensor on the spindle because the old one just would not come out and now I dont have ABS (light is on) but thats an issue for another time.

I added some pics, post install with new "shiny" parts. The lower ball joint had a small cut in the boot and was really loose. I find it hard to believe that just the lower ball joint was causing all of that noise but all seems well now.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B40gM6b_imeCUzAyUXVSVmZaWHM

I want to thank everyone for your help and guidance.

Thanks!