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OP,

What brand is your C-frame? Ive discovered that the internal opening varies from C-frame to C-frame. Mine isnt large enough to accomodate the OTC adapters and still get around the top & bottom of the BJ.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
OP,

What brand is your C-frame? Ive discovered that the internal opening varies from C-frame to C-frame. Mine isnt large enough to accomodate the OTC adapters and still get around the top & bottom of the BJ.

Yes indeed, I should have mentioned that. I have the inexpensive ($49) Wholesale Tool kit 6605-0950, and that fit fine:

WT Ball Joint, U-Joint & C-Frame Press Service Kit)

However, when I borrowed the Honda ball joint adapters from the auto parts store (the ones that didn't work), they also loaned me another C frame kit because they loan them out together. And, as you say, that C frame was just a little too small an opening to fit the adapters plus joint (I don't remember exactly, but maybe by just 1/8 inch or so).
 

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DIY Video Lower Ball Joint Replacement

Thanks to this guide I just replaced my lower ball joints.

Here's a DIY video on how I did it:



It turns out I had many of the the same issues that JohnNH had in the original post.

The play in the lower ball joints was so much that I could literally pickup the wheel and feel how loose it was. My car has 311,000km.


Tie rod cotter pins broken. I have yet to drill them out.



Snapped the ABS sensor off due to rust:




It was so rusted in there I had to drill it out:



I used the rental ball joint press from Partsource but even with the Honda adapter kit it wasn't the correct size:



Using the C-shaped adapter I was able to barely brake the ball joint free after cutting off the ball stud:



Then I hammered it the rest of the way out. On the right side of the car I was able to slide the ball joint out but it got stuck in the adapter (because the adapter is slightly smaller than the ball joint housing). Here's whats left of the ball joint and the new one:



I used Mevotech Original grade replacement ball joints



I used two adapters on one side and no adapter on the other side to press in the ball joint. It did scuff up the backing plate on the ball joint a bit.



Knuckle all cleaned up ready to install:



Also installed some new stabilizer end links from Mevotech:



And slapped on some new pads and rotors:



Overall replacing the ball joints were much more time intensive than I expected. Double wish bone suspension just has many more parts that can wear out faster, especially since the lower ball joint is load bearing. I prefer Toyota's McPherson setup which has bolt on ball joints and have a simpler, more reliable design.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Nice job! Great work making that adapter kit work. Sometimes it takes some improvising to get the job done! Thanks for sharing! I am sure that will be very useful for others.
 

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The Toyota's ball joints can easily be unbolted and removed, changed on the fly and they point upwards. Much easier. Most Honda's still use this same design and it's a real pain to change out the ball joints. I hope your wheel bearings are still good, my front driver's side was bad at 220k miles.
 

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SP Tool 68600A Honda/Accura Ball Joint Tool using air Hammer

This SP Tool 68600A Honda/Accura Ball Joint Tool using air Hammer seems to be very simple to change the Honda ball joint without taking the knuckle out. Everything are done on the car. No need to remove the Caliper and tie rod end. Just swing the knuckle to the side (video frame at 0:20). Use a air hammer and this tool kit to remove the old ball joint and install the new ball joint. It seems to be DIY dream tool. Save time.

 

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This SP Tool 68600A Honda/Accura Ball Joint Tool using air Hammer seems to be very simple to change the Honda ball joint without taking the knuckle out. Everything are done on the car. No need to remove the Caliper and tie rod end. Just swing the knuckle to the side (video frame at 0:20). Use a air hammer and this tool kit to remove the old ball joint and install the new ball joint. It seems to be DIY dream tool. Save time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89KiZz5F_-A
It would be a must have if youre a pro. But most DIYers dont have air hammers.
 

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A lot easier with this SP tool, I'd be tempted to buy it, use it then sell it, same with the air hammer.

Consider the loss as "tool rental fee".

BTW this reminds me of the "palm nailer" pneumatic hammer which allows one to drive nails in confined space where you can't swing a regular hammer, I bought one when I was building a deck many years ago, it's a life saver.

Palm Air Nailer
 

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I buy my tools when they are on sales - not when I need it.

I paid my 20g Campbell Hausfeld air compressor for $100 and my Stanley FatMax air tools combo kit for $50. Both were on clearance by Canadian Tire a few years ago when I used them to change tires twice yearly.

Now, I do all repair on my cars with my air tool. It is sometime difficult to use a breaker bar when I under my car with jack stand. Air tools make thing easier.

I took my Accord to the dealer recently for the airbag recall and was told by the service writer that I need to a new lower ball joint. Here I am researching how to change the lower ball joint on my 06 Accord.
 

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A lot easier with this SP tool, I'd be tempted to buy it, use it then sell it, same with the air hammer.

Consider the loss as "tool rental fee".

BTW this reminds me of the "palm nailer" pneumatic hammer which allows one to drive nails in confined space where you can't swing a regular hammer, I bought one when I was building a deck many years ago, it's a life saver.

Palm Air Nailer
Thats ridiculous. An air hammer has practically no value, if you already have the compressor, might as well keep the air hammer around for other projects. The SP tool can probably be modified to work with other BJs as well.
 

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I saw ericthecarguy do the ball joint using an air hammer, without the special tool. Looked like a sawed off chisel he used. I imagine you need a pretty good air hammer and a good compressor either way. I doubt a $15 HF air hammer and tiny pancake compressor would do the trick.
 

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I saw ericthecarguy do the ball joint using an air hammer, without the special tool. Looked like a sawed off chisel he used. I imagine you need a pretty good air hammer and a good compressor either way. I doubt a $15 HF air hammer and tiny pancake compressor would do the trick.
Yup. I love ETC videos - he is a Honda master.
 

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I saw ericthecarguy do the ball joint using an air hammer, without the special tool. Looked like a sawed off chisel he used. I imagine you need a pretty good air hammer and a good compressor either way. I doubt a $15 HF air hammer and tiny pancake compressor would do the trick.
I paid ten bucks for my HF air hammer/chisel. It's not too bad in itself, but yeah, a pancake air compressor would give you more than a few seconds of viable use. I got a HF 21 gal compressor for 50 bucks at one of their parking lot sales. They had dropped it and broken one of the pressure gauges. The handle was also wrong.... LOL. I had to grind it down to make it fit in the slots. Works well though.
 

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I saw ericthecarguy do the ball joint using an air hammer, without the special tool. Looked like a sawed off chisel he used. I imagine you need a pretty good air hammer and a good compressor either way. I doubt a $15 HF air hammer and tiny pancake compressor would do the trick.
I saw that video too. BTW he uses his air hammer quite often in his repair videos. He hammer at the circumference of the new ball joint. He may have a strong hand and keeping the hammer head from moving around. The expensive SP Tool 68600A will help to keep hammering on the whole circumference instead one spot at a time.

I cannot find the one he use. I got this one from Amazon. I will use this hammer bit to hammer at the circumference.
 

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I'm thinking about getting the $49 ingersol rand air hammer and a good hammer bit. I figure the ball joints are going to need changing at some point and I can always use it for other things. I have a Ridgid 5 gallon air compressor I paid about $300 for, it works well and puts out pretty good. The ingersol rand impact gun and air ratchet combo I bought has come in handy many times including when I changed the bushings on the lower arms. The air ratchet was great for changing out the power steering return hoses.
 

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I am replacing the right side ball joint right now. I am leaving everything(rotor, caliper) on the knuckle. I swing the whole knuckle to the left and tie with a bungee cord at the jack stand while I am replacing the ball joint.

Is there any easy way to get the dust shield out without damage it? I spray some penetrating oil and let it sit ATM.
 

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I am replacing the right side ball joint right now. I am leaving everything(rotor, caliper) on the knuckle. I swing the whole knuckle to the left and tie with a bungee cord at the jack stand while I am replacing the ball joint.

Is there any easy way to get the dust shield out without damage it? I spray some penetrating oil and let it sit ATM.
Get some pix please. :thmsup:
 
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