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bumping some old posts related to my findings, as of this date through direct experience and research the for (8th gen)AC DELCO ball joints, NAPA CANADA Blue Boxed ball joints are both Sankei 555 Made in Japan on the inside, stamped on the flat side.
 

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Great information here. Hoping you can provide a bit more color, though. I just snapped the bolt on the knuckle, holding the ball joint. I assume I now need to remove the entire knuckle and get the old ball joint out, correct? Does the knuckle include the arm that goes up to the UCA? Appears so; just want to be sure. Any additional photos on HOW you got the ball joint out of the knuckle?

On the other side? I got the ball joint loose, from the control arm; however, now when I tighten the nut to the shaft of the ball joint? The shaft on the ball joint just spins. The nut won't run down tight because that shaft on the ball joint is spinning. I fear I'm looking at a ball joint on that side, too. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Shumax
 

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Pilot without a plane
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I just did lower ball joints on my car. The write up here is great. I added a post with some other details in my car's thread. Click on the link in my signature to check it out. That should answer your questions.
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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...I just snapped the bolt on the knuckle, holding the ball joint.

...The shaft on the ball joint just spins. The nut won't run down tight because that shaft on the ball joint is spinning....
What were you trying to do when you snapped the bolt? Brutal force must be needed for that.
Have you tried to jack up the control arm, so that there will be more friction? Any trace of grease/oil has to be cleaned from the ball stud and the mating hole. If you can't follow/understand the directions in this thread, you might want to have it done at a garage. It's not a beginner job.
 

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On the other side? I got the ball joint loose, from the control arm; however, now when I tighten the nut to the shaft of the ball joint? The shaft on the ball joint just spins. The nut won't run down tight because that shaft on the ball joint is spinning. I fear I'm looking at a ball joint on that side, too. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Shumax
You need to tighten the castle nut for the lower ball joint with the suspension under load, by jacking up the lower control arm until the car lifts off the jack stands.
 

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Thanks, t-rd. That's exactly what I needed. Should help the same issue - spinning shaft - on the upper LCA, too. Appreciate the quick insight.

Curt
 

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What were you trying to do when you snapped the bolt? Brutal force must be needed for that.
Have you tried to jack up the control arm, so that there will be more friction? Any trace of grease/oil has to be cleaned from the ball stud and the mating hole. If you can't follow/understand the directions in this thread, you might want to have it done at a garage. It's not a beginner job.
Midwest winters, my friend. Used the same breaker bar I did on the other 50 bolts I took off the rear shocks, real knuckle, front knuckle, on and on and on. Complete front and rear shock/strut replacement with KYB; front LCA's and an outer tie rod. That's the job. At the end of the day, it's a rusted bolt. It happens. All soaked a day or two with PB, too. Frustrating.

I do follow the directions - just looking for photos of the actual removal of the joint from the knuckle.

Shumax
 

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Pilot without a plane
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You have to pop that trim ring out on the hub to get the ball joint out. I just used a little mini sledge on the joint. A couple taps and it was out. I don't have a vice. I just held the knuckle on the garage floor with my foot.
 

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I might give it a run. I need to research how to remove that ABS wire. I know not to take it off the knuckle - unhook in the engine. I just had the fuse box out servicing the tranny, and put it all back together, so I am sure that baby is located right under that! HAHA. Good thing this is a car I don't need to drive. :)
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Midwest winters, my friend. Used the same breaker bar I did on the other 50 bolts I took off the rear shocks, real knuckle, front knuckle, on and on and on. Complete front and rear shock/strut replacement with KYB; front LCA's and an outer tie rod. That's the job. At the end of the day, it's a rusted bolt. It happens. All soaked a day or two with PB, too. Frustrating.

I do follow the directions - just looking for photos of the actual removal of the joint from the knuckle.

Shumax
Aren't there several pictures in JohnNH's PDF showing how the ball joint was pressed out by a ball joint press?

Good luck trying to beat the ball joint out with a hammer, not likely to work, even if you live in California/Arizona or Texas. First, you need to cut the stud off before you can assert decent force on the ball joint sleeve. Once you mushroomed the ball joint sleeve by a hammer, you'll be in bigger trouble. Do it the right (easier) way.

BTW, the castle nut rarely seizes and is a very strong nut. Are you sure you turned it the right way? Last time I broke a bolt, turning the wrong way was the very reason.
 

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Minute 9 into the video. 3lb hammer plus a huge deep socket over the rim of the bottom side of the ball joint with the boot removed. This guy tried using a C-clamp press and it didn't work either. The press works when you put in the new one, especially when you put the ball joint in the freezer first to shrink the metal a tiny bit.

Really waiting for Milwaukee to come out with an electric hammer then I can just push it out with ease.

 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Minute 9 into the video. 3lb hammer plus a huge deep socket over the rim of the bottom side of the ball joint with the boot removed. This guy tried using a C-clamp press and it didn't work either. The press works when you put in the new one, especially when you put the ball joint in the freezer first to shrink the metal a tiny bit.

Really waiting for Milwaukee to come out with an electric hammer then I can just push it out with ease.
...
Proper pusher/cup makes all the difference (cost about $60). Without proper sized cup/pusher, the C-clamp of course can't work. When I did mine, the ball joint came out with similar resistance as all the LCA bushings, piece of cake.

I read a while ago that you had trouble with replacing LCA bushings, which surprised me. I bet that you didn't line up the pushing socket perfectly, so that the C-clamp was pushing on the LCA. I vaguely remember that I might have used two different sockets at different times with the fork bushing, 26 & 28(?).
 

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You all are more ambitious than I am with this bushing pressing/replacement. I am friends with the lead mechanic, and the store manager, at a local Firestone. I talked to them and they are going to take the kunckle (once I get it off of the car) and put the ball joint in for me for $20. Done!

Off topic - don't flame. I disconnected the wire off of the knuckle, in the engine bay, but that white grommet in the body - between the wheel well and the engine bay - is a treat. How do I get that wire through without destroying that grommet? Seems like it would unclip, but I can't sort that out.

Thanks again for all of the input. Parts arrive Friday and I'll be back at it later this weekend, into next.

Shumax
 

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Off topic - don't flame. I disconnected the wire off of the knuckle, in the engine bay, but that white grommet in the body - between the wheel well and the engine bay - is a treat. How do I get that wire through without destroying that grommet? Seems like it would unclip, but I can't sort that out.
The whole clip/grommet comes out of the fender with the wire. Then it's a nice big hole so the connector fits through.
 

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Thanks. I'm trying to figure out HOW to get that grommet out. I mean, I can use brute force, but I'd like to be more gentle and not break stuff. Any tips? Thanks again.
Shumax
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Thanks. I'm trying to figure out HOW to get that grommet out. I mean, I can use brute force, but I'd like to be more gentle and not break stuff. Any tips? Thanks again.
Shumax
I just realized that you didn't even read JohnNH's PDF write up. My tip? Read
 
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