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Discussion Starter #1
I'm planning on replacing the LCAs and struts of my 07 Accord this summer. I have two 07s. A 4cyl and a V6. I will do the 4cyl first. 110k miles. The compliance bushings are torn pretty good. I'll replace the ball joints while I'm at it.

I just wondered if theres a preference among members with LCA brand. There are so many brands out there (Moog, Mevotech, Delco, Dorman, Proforge, etc). Same with struts but I think I'll use KYB. I'd love to have some Bilsteins but they don't make it for a Honda.

Would like to benefit from everyone's experience. Thanks in advance.
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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I replaced one of LCAs with Dorman last year. It fits ok, but the ball joint seating hole is not as precise as OEM, the rubber is not as good, already showing microcracks not long after. I'm planning to replace them again with oem bushings. All the brands you mentioned are of similar quality as Dorman.

Check classifieds for a new oem LCA for sale.





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I just had to replace both my LCAs for torn compliance bushings. Had a shop do it because I didn't have the time or resources to finish the job if it turned into a nightmare (LCA bolts seized into bushings).

Are you planning on doing them yourself? My advice is: if you have an impact wrench, try undoing the LCA bolts before you plan on even doing the job. If they come loose, great. Tighten them back up, and do the job as planned whenever. I say impact wrench, beacuse that will tell you pretty quick if they will come loose or not. If you're using a breaker bar, you might break the head off the bolt.

However, if they don't budge, go to the dealer and order new LCA bolts beforehand. Because you're going to be in for a fight, which will likely end in you having to cut the ones on your car.

In any case, just be ready for the LCA bolts to be seized into the bushings.
 

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I did mine years ago. One side was easy. Other side had a seized bolt i cut out. I used Dorman, it as good enough. Remember to tighten in the loaded position.

Do you have a balljoint press c clamp tool? Dont do the lower balljoint without it. Hond specific adapters make it a quick job
 

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I have had the Raybestos ones on my car for over 2 years now, with no crack in the bushings.
 

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How much did they charge to replace the lower control arms?
5.2 hours: 4 for the LCAs, and 1.2 for the end-links which were seized and had to be cut off and replaced to get at the LCAs.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How much did they charge to replace the lower control arms?
If I recall correctly, 2 years ago the dealer wanted $800+ for both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just had to replace both my LCAs for torn compliance bushings. Had a shop do it because I didn't have the time or resources to finish the job if it turned into a nightmare (LCA bolts seized into bushings).

Are you planning on doing them yourself? My advice is: if you have an impact wrench, try undoing the LCA bolts before you plan on even doing the job. If they come loose, great. Tighten them back up, and do the job as planned whenever. I say impact wrench, beacuse that will tell you pretty quick if they will come loose or not. If you're using a breaker bar, you might break the head off the bolt.

However, if they don't budge, go to the dealer and order new LCA bolts beforehand. Because you're going to be in for a fight, which will likely end in you having to cut the ones on your car.

In any case, just be ready for the LCA bolts to be seized into the bushings.
Good idea getting the LCA bolts ahead of time.

Yes, I have impact wrench (and compressed air system), ball joint separator, 3 floor jacks. I also plan to replace the shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I replaced one of LCAs with Dorman last year. It fits ok, but the ball joint seating hole is not as precise as OEM, the rubber is not as good, already showing microcracks not long after. I'm planning to replace them again with oem bushings. All the brands you mentioned are of similar quality as Dorman.
Right now I have the Moogs in my checkout box. Still trying to decide between them, Proforge or Mevotech. Will research some more. Not buying the parts till I'm ready.
 

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Runnin' in the 90s
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Raybestos makes good parts.
 

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Moog is a hit & miss, there has been quality problems with some of their products such as lower ball joint.
 

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I replaced all four shocks two summers ago myself, pretty straight forward, went with OEM strut/spring assemblies to save time and avoid dealing with compressing springs, one end link was seized so I had to cut it off, replace with heavy duty Moog parts.

Last fall I replaced both LCA myself too since the compliance bushings were almost fully split, wasn't too bad except one seized bolt that took some time to loosen up, as well as wrestling with a pretty heavy piece of metal to line up the part into mounting holes and mounting tabs.

Ball joints i didn't even bother attempting myself, I bought OEM lower ball joints and Timken front wheel bearings for a trusted shop to do the work.
 

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I replaced all four shocks two summers ago myself, pretty straight forward, went with OEM strut/spring assemblies to save time and avoid dealing with compressing springs, one end link was seized so I had to cut it off, replace with heavy duty Moog parts.

Last fall I replaced both LCA myself too since the compliance bushings were almost fully split, wasn't too bad except one seized bolt that took some time to loosen up, as well as wrestling with a pretty heavy piece of metal to line up the part into mounting holes and mounting tabs.

Ball joints i didn't even bother attempting myself, I bought OEM lower ball joints and Timken front wheel bearings for a trusted shop to do the work.
How did you get wheel speed sensor out without breaking it?
 

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I bought 'loaded' Beck Arnley lower control arms from Rock Auto. And Koni front struts from some online suspension place for $75 each I forgot where.
 

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How did you get wheel speed sensor out without breaking it?
Over the years I have regularly sprayed most of the fasteners around suspension and chassis components with anti-rust sprays (RustCheck or Krown) to fight off corrosion around this part of the country using salt during winter months.

I don't recall any issues with speed sensor wiring etc. while replacing the LCA's.

Guess my anti-rust tactics have worked fairly well.

BTW I used Delco LCA's, they have lifetime warranty, although I doubt I will be taking advantage of that before I sell the car.
 

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Disconnect the speed sensor, at the electrical connector end. Do not attempt take it out of the knuckle, it will break.
 

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I've used Moog LCA and they seem to have held up over 3 years with no issues.
 

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Initially ordered AC Delco LCAs from an authorized seller and returned them due to poor workmanship in one of the parts. Lack of quality consistency. Chose Proforged from RockAuto instead (Made in Taiwan)
IMG-7295b.jpg

524187
 

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I've heard a knocking sound underneath when I go up and down the driveway. Is there a way to check these if they are bad, or with my mileage do I just assume they are? What are the parts I need to get in order to replace them?
 
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