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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I have a 2013 Accord Sedan EX-L Navigation approaching 100,000 miles. This has been an amazing car for me. And I have not had any issues with it since buying it brand new in 2013. I want to maximize its life and figured I need to begin taking maintenance seriously so I can prolong the car's life.

What are some maintenance/service things I should be doing on the car for its 100,000 mile service?

I recently got the oil changed at the shop and they mentioned three things:
  • My radiator cap wasn't holding pressure
  • Coolant level was low
  • Transmission leak
* They said my coolant level is probably low because my radiator cap won't hold pressure. How can I fix the radiator cap? Is it as simple as just purchasing a new OEM radiator cap? Or is there more to it? Also, if my coolant level is low should I just add some fluid to it to top it off or should I flush the entire system? Is there a "how to" on how to replace the coolant fluid?

* How do I go about investigating the transmission leak? Where would the transmission typically be leaking from? And if it is leaking, how does one go about fixing that?

* Is there a service manual in PDF form that I can find somewhere online to help me?

* I've developed an issue during cold starts where, for about one second, I get a loud rattle from the engine bay. From researching online and watching Youtube videos I'm almost certain it is the Variable Valve Timing Control Actuator (VTC). I've heard this is a cheap part but the labor alone is rather expensive (upwards of $1,000). Is this something that can be left alone for a considerable amount of time without fixing it and no bad will come of it? Or if left alone will it cause significant damage in some way?
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And finally, any recommendations on parts to lift the car and keep it stable? If I want something to keep the car completely level with all four tires off the ground, what are my options?

Thank you and sorry for the long post.
 

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OEM radiator cap only, on my 04 they last about 6 yrs. Coolant low in the bottle or radiator, should be changed, I always get a flush done & use Zerex Asian coolant. Have you been changing the trans. fluid ? New brake fluid every 3 yrs. Do you follow the mm codes for all maintenance,
 

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Runnin' in the 90s
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I'd try replacing the radiator cap and refilling the tank until it's at the right level. Make sure you use either OEM Honda coolant, or an equivalent that's correct for your car (don't use universal coolant). Then drive the car as normal for a few days, and every day check the coolant level. See if it's still dropping or not. If not, then you found the problem!

As for the transmission fluid leak, you can try cleaning up the CV axles and see if it's leaking from there; that's the first place I'd look anyway. I think there's a rubber boot over them so you might be able to carefully pull them off/back and check to see if there's a buildup of fluid? I'm not sure. I've always had a shop do this for me (up on a lift where they can see), so I don't know what all goes into it. Until you get the leak figured out, make sure you check your transmission fluid level every few days to make sure it doesn't get run low. Grab some Honda ATF (I assume your car is automatic) to top it off with. You really don't want to run it out of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You need new spark plugs, and new coolant. Also new PCV valve. Lots of YouTube vids on those.
Yes, spark plugs are something I want to get changed out before 100,000 miles. What spark plugs does Honda recommend? And what gap?
I'll look into the PCV valve. Thanks.

OEM radiator cap only, on my 04 they last about 6 yrs. Coolant low in the bottle or radiator, should be changed, I always get a flush done & use Zerex Asian coolant. Have you been changing the trans. fluid ? New brake fluid every 3 yrs. Do you follow the mm codes for all maintenance,
Gong to buy one today. I had the CVT fluid changed at Honda last year, so that is good for now but definitely something I want to take over and begin doing myself.

I'd try replacing the radiator cap and refilling the tank until it's at the right level. Make sure you use either OEM Honda coolant, or an equivalent that's correct for your car (don't use universal coolant). Then drive the car as normal for a few days, and every day check the coolant level. See if it's still dropping or not. If not, then you found the problem!

As for the transmission fluid leak, you can try cleaning up the CV axles and see if it's leaking from there; that's the first place I'd look anyway. I think there's a rubber boot over them so you might be able to carefully pull them off/back and check to see if there's a buildup of fluid? I'm not sure. I've always had a shop do this for me (up on a lift where they can see), so I don't know what all goes into it. Until you get the leak figured out, make sure you check your transmission fluid level every few days to make sure it doesn't get run low. Grab some Honda ATF (I assume your car is automatic) to top it off with. You really don't want to run it out of fluid.
I am going to try to find the transmission leak as well and go from there.

Is there somewhere online I can find a free service manual in PDF form? Or do those have to be purchased in book form?
 

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* How do I go about investigating the transmission leak? Where would the transmission typically be leaking from? And if it is leaking, how does one go about fixing that?
Rear main seal leaks manifest under the transmission. Check this thread, follow t-rd's instructions to collect information.


And finally, any recommendations on parts to lift the car and keep it stable? If I want something to keep the car completely level with all four tires off the ground, what are my options?
Jack stands (do not buy cheap 2-ton ones, spend a few extra bucks and use slightly beefier 3-ton stands) + (if you have a separate set of wheels for summer) put wheels under the car for safety. You are going to need 2 pairs of stands. I have one pair of 2-ton stands that I use at rears, and another pair of 3-ton stands that go under front side jack points. I have a floor jack that I use to lift one side and place 2 jack stands (1 front and 1 rear) with one lift. I throw a piece of soft wood in between the jack and the car, so there is no metal-on-metal contact.
 

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Is there somewhere online I can find a free service manual in PDF form? Or do those have to be purchased in book form?
this will probably be all you'll need .......


All the numbers,specs,and steps to perform all the normal maintenance to keep that '13 running for another 100k.

It's 18 bucks and you'll never need to pull the computer or tablet in the garage while working on the car.

Just a suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Rear main seal leaks manifest under the transmission. Check this thread, follow t-rd's instructions to collect information.




Jack stands (do not buy cheap 2-ton ones, spend a few extra bucks and use slightly beefier 3-ton stands) + (if you have a separate set of wheels for summer) put wheels under the car for safety. You are going to need 2 pairs of stands. I have one pair of 2-ton stands that I use at rears, and another pair of 3-ton stands that go under front side jack points. I have a floor jack that I use to lift one side and place 2 jack stands (1 front and 1 rear) with one lift. I throw a piece of soft wood in between the jack and the car, so there is no metal-on-metal contact.
Very stupid question but here it goes: If you lift one side of the car first (let's say the driver side of the car) high enough, and put two jack stands under the jacking points (one jack stand in the front and one jack stand in the rear. Then you lower the car in order to do the same on the right side....won't the angle of the car (the entire left side being propped up on jack stands) while the right side tires are on the ground, cause the vehicle to become unstable on the stands? Or is this not a problem at all and I'm over thinking it?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If you are putting it up on 4 stands, do both front then the back, or vise versa. It's just easier.
Yes, that makes sense to me. My question was just if I happened to be jacking it up from the side, as mentioned in an earlier post, is it safe to put one side of the car front and back on jack stands, then lower the car and then try jacking up the other side? I feel like that would not be safe.
 

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I think you have adequately answered your own question. B-)
 

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I'd rather lift the front or back rather than the side, but there is no clearance to place the floor jack under the front jack point and then operate the pump handle. If you own the equipment that allows this, do it obviously. If you are lifting the front (or the back) don't forget to chock the rear (or front) wheels.

Some of the other things I would rather:
1. Have a proper garage lift.
2. Have a trench in my garage so I would not have to lift anything at all.
3. Inherit a trust fund so dropping $10K on an oil change for my Veyron would not make a dent in my weekly budget.
 

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Rear main seal leaks manifest under the transmission. Check this thread, follow t-rd's instructions to collect information.
https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/looming-transmission-problem.549943/#post-6762731

Jack stands (do not buy cheap 2-ton ones, spend a few extra bucks and use slightly beefier 3-ton stands) + (if you have a separate set of wheels for summer) put wheels under the car for safety. You are going to need 2 pairs of stands. I have one pair of 2-ton stands that I use at rears, and another pair of 3-ton stands that go under front side jack points. I have a floor jack that I use to lift one side and place 2 jack stands (1 front and 1 rear) with one lift. I throw a piece of soft wood in between the jack and the car, so there is no metal-on-metal contact.
So if it's a rear main seal that is an oil leak. That will manifest itself right at the split line where the transmission bell housing meets the back of the engine block, probably see a drop or two hanging at the bottom there. To the untrained eye it can be a bit difficult to determine whether it's an oil leak or a transmission leak. Oil is meant to pick up and hold dirt and contaminants, then it brings those to the filter which removes them and then the oil continues on. Transmission fluid does not pick up contaminants or dirt, it washes them away. So an oil leak will look dirty and caked up with road grime, sand and such, while a transmission leak will have a cleaner look to it.

Hey everyone. I have a 2013 Accord Sedan EX-L Navigation approaching 100,000 miles. This has been an amazing car for me. And I have not had any issues with it since buying it brand new in 2013. I want to maximize its life and figured I need to begin taking maintenance seriously so I can prolong the car's life.

What are some maintenance/service things I should be doing on the car for its 100,000 mile service?

I recently got the oil changed at the shop and they mentioned three things:
  • My radiator cap wasn't holding pressure
  • Coolant level was low
  • Transmission leak
* They said my coolant level is probably low because my radiator cap won't hold pressure. How can I fix the radiator cap? Is it as simple as just purchasing a new OEM radiator cap? Or is there more to it? Also, if my coolant level is low should I just add some fluid to it to top it off or should I flush the entire system? Is there a "how to" on how to replace the coolant fluid?

* How do I go about investigating the transmission leak? Where would the transmission typically be leaking from? And if it is leaking, how does one go about fixing that?

* Is there a service manual in PDF form that I can find somewhere online to help me?

* I've developed an issue during cold starts where, for about one second, I get a loud rattle from the engine bay. From researching online and watching Youtube videos I'm almost certain it is the Variable Valve Timing Control Actuator (VTC). I've heard this is a cheap part but the labor alone is rather expensive (upwards of $1,000). Is this something that can be left alone for a considerable amount of time without fixing it and no bad will come of it? Or if left alone will it cause significant damage in some way?
-----
And finally, any recommendations on parts to lift the car and keep it stable? If I want something to keep the car completely level with all four tires off the ground, what are my options?

Thank you and sorry for the long post.
One of the big things you'll need to get done, assuming your EX-L is a 6 cylinder, is the timing belt. If you take it to the dealer, which we always do with our Hondas, it will cost about $1k. It's a pricey maintenance item but if you don't do it and the belt slips/breaks the resultant repair can be in the thousands so definitely do that. Now, that 'rattle' you talk about is most likely the timing belt tensioner, which gets replaced as part of the timing belt change. The tensioner is not putting the proper tension on the belt so what your hearing is the timing belt rattle against the inside of the timing belt cover. Once the engine warms up the tensioner starts to work better so that noise goes away. Happened to our 2013 Odyssey at about 80k miles. Just another reason to get that timing belt done. Now, that said this is based on your vehicle being a 6 cylinder. If it's a 4 cylinder then this whole reply is pointless. LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
One of the big things you'll need to get done, assuming your EX-L is a 6 cylinder, is the timing belt. If you take it to the dealer, which we always do with our Hondas, it will cost about $1k. It's a pricey maintenance item but if you don't do it and the belt slips/breaks the resultant repair can be in the thousands so definitely do that. Now, that 'rattle' you talk about is most likely the timing belt tensioner, which gets replaced as part of the timing belt change. The tensioner is not putting the proper tension on the belt so what your hearing is the timing belt rattle against the inside of the timing belt cover. Once the engine warms up the tensioner starts to work better so that noise goes away. Happened to our 2013 Odyssey at about 80k miles. Just another reason to get that timing belt done. Now, that said this is based on your vehicle being a 6 cylinder. If it's a 4 cylinder then this whole reply is pointless. LOL.
My car is a 4 cylinder so I guess the whole reply was useless lol. However, your previous reply was useful. I checked my transmission today and there is a lot of caked up, grimey sludge looking stuff all over the bottom. The shop I had my oil change done at, said my transmission had a leak. I park the car in the driveway every day and I don't see any drips on the concrete so it's not a dripping leak, but looks to be more like a seeping leak that builds up but doesn't really drip much.

I posted about my transmission leak in a new thread (seen below). I was hoping someone could give me some insight after looking at the pictures. It appears the leak or seep is pretty bad but I don't know a whole lot about cars so I'm not sure:

 

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Discussion Starter #17
A week ago during an oil change at the shop, the mechanic told me my transmission had a leak. This morning after work I decided to inspect it and I found a bunch of thick, sticky dirty sludge looking stuff built up all over the bottom of the transmission area of the car. In some areas the sludge is thick enough to almost be covering the bolts. I always park my car in the driveway and have not noticed any leaking on the concrete so I don't think it's leaking so much as it is seeping and slowly building up with more and more grime. I saw in another thread something about removing a black piece that has two 10mm bolts securing it, in order to see up in the transmission more. Unfortunately I was unable to remove one of the bolts as it would not budge in the slightest. The other one came off no problem. Can anyone look at the pictures and tell me what they think the problem is? And more importantly for me right now, does anyone have suggestions on how to fix this, if it needs to be fixed? Thank you.

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Ah. If only you had opened the inspection cover...
Yea, so I tried opening it. The bottom bolt came off just fine. The top bolt was on extremely tight and would not budge. I only have a smallish screwdriver with a 10mm socket on it and I don't think I have enough leverage with it so I need to get some sort of socket/wrench set to get it off.
 

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Yea, so I tried opening it. The bottom bolt came off just fine. The top bolt was on extremely tight and would not budge. I only have a smallish screwdriver with a 10mm socket on it and I don't think I have enough leverage with it so I need to get some sort of socket/wrench set to get it off.
Yea, socket wrenches are kinda important to work on a car. Screwdrivers be dangerous.
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