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Discussion Starter #1
So I was trying to fix a little scratch that got to the metal of the car.

I used bondo to fill in the little holes and sand it. Primed it, painted, then clear coat it.

I am not very experienced and sorta messed up the job. When I sprayed the primer, I covered more area than I had to. So to fix that, I went and paint over where I had primer on. Basically now, there are paint and little bit of primer on top of my factory clear coat.

How can I get the paint off without hurting the factory clear coat? So far, I've tried 1500 grit wet sand on a small area and it seems like it's taking some of the paint off as I can see the factory clear coat starting to show in spots.

Should I go lower? Like 1000?
 

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you mean you have overspray on other parts of your car? if compound or clay won't take it off you can try a little bit of thinner and wash it off right after
 

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you mean you have overspray on other parts of your car? if compound or clay won't take it off you can try a little bit of thinner and wash it off right after
This. Your factory paint is going to be stuck on way harder than overspray.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you mean you have overspray on other parts of your car? if compound or clay won't take it off you can try a little bit of thinner and wash it off right after
I assume you mean rubbing compound?

I tried the clay but I see no progression on the car other than on the clay.

I also want to mention that the overspray have been sitting for some months now.
 

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I assume you mean rubbing compound?

I tried the clay but I see no progression on the car other than on the clay.

I also want to mention that the overspray have been sitting for some months now.
if it's been sitting that long thinner might not work. only other option would be wet sanding.
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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1500 is fine just be sure to keep the area flooded with water as you sand as in bold the hose with one hand and the sanding block with the other. Once you can see more clear coat than over spray, switch to 2000 grit to remove the remaining over spray then use 2500 grit to smooth the entire area. You will 5hen need to compound the area using a mild compound like Meguiars ultimate compound in combination with a dual action polisher. Follow that with a polish like Meguiars ultimate polish or 205. As long as you don't put a lot of muscle behind your sanding and let the paper do the work, you can easily remove the over spray without hurting the factory finish. Be sure to use a sanding block and don't get ahead of yourself. Take it slow and you'll come out a hero on the other side.
Some pics would help to know how large an area we are talking about.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There is a small area where there is layer of aftermarket paint on it. Me, being an idiot, went a little over board and try to blend the old paint with the factory clear coat.

Is wetsanding and buffing still the solution to this sort of mess? Will I even see the factory clearcoat anymore under those layer of paint?
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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There is a small area where there is layer of aftermarket paint on it. Me, being an idiot, went a little over board and try to blend the old paint with the factory clear coat.

Is wetsanding and buffing still the solution to this sort of mess? Will I even see the factory clearcoat anymore under those layer of paint?
You're going to have to post some pics or at least one for any of us to be able to lend any more expertise and advice to your situation. I'm happy to help but I've got to see what I'm dealing with.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You're going to have to post some pics or at least one for any of us to be able to lend any more expertise and advice to your situation. I'm happy to help but I've got to see what I'm dealing with.
I'll post pictures later when I get my hands on a decent camera, but please bare with me at the moment.

Anyways, I got on the project today and managed to take out a lot of paint from the factory clear coat by wet sanding. The process I of sanding I took was 1000 grit all through the paint that needed to come off. Then I went 1500 grit for a bit, not too long. Then 2000 for a duration shorter than the 1500. I spent a lot of time using 1000 because I can see the paint actually coming off and my clear coat starting to show, like a peeling effect.

I then used my DA polisher and removed the scratches and damn is it shiny.

Problem I ran into.

1. The primer on the initial damage is starting to show. I'll post pics before anyone address this problem.
2. One little spot near the side skirt began to turn white/peachy color, is this a sign that I'm hitting metal on my sanding?
3. There are quite a bit of light scratches on the area where I sanded. Does this have anything to do with my sanding process?

Thanks Steve, and the others, y'all have been very helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here are some pics.

#1: This is where the damage was. I'm not even sure anymore what is beginning to surface. Primer or factory paint. Let's call this the peeling. I ran my finger over it and it's smooth as hell. I did more sanding after I took these pictures and just a little bit to the left, metal is starting to show on the corners.

#2: The part where my reflection is, is the factory clear coat I suppose. Anything lower is where I did the repair.

#3: Overspray just underneath the rear passenger window. Yes, I went THAT overboard on the painting.

#4: Little bit of scuff mark from previous sanding.

#5: You can see the deep scratches from my sanding. I think I rushed it and was using the corner of the block to sand some part down.

I don't think I did a very good job but to compare with the overspray, this is much better. My main concern is #1 and #5. I think for #1 I have to repaint and reclear. For #5, do I have to resand using finer grit?
 

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Reflections Auto Detail
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Like I said above, take it to a body shop. You have gone past the clear as you did not have the experience to do it correctly. More sanding will just abrade more clear.
This is my advice verbatim. Good luck and be sure to let us know how it works out.
 

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if you continue to do this on your own and wanna get those scratches out, you'll have to go with a coarser grit to until you get the scratches out then go up in 100-grit increments until the scratches are out and smooth. So you're most likely gonna wear down the paint in that process. sand out away from your damaged area cause when you spray the base coat, you don't want it to land on unsanded clear.

after the base coat spray one thick coat of clear but not too thick that it runs. see if you can get a blending spray to blend your clear coat into the factory clear coat. you can get it in a rattle can. it won't come out as good as a body shop, but it'll look decent if done right.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
if you continue to do this on your own and wanna get those scratches out, you'll have to go with a coarser grit to until you get the scratches out then go up in 100-grit increments until the scratches are out and smooth. So you're most likely gonna wear down the paint in that process. sand out away from your damaged area cause when you spray the base coat, you don't want it to land on unsanded clear.

after the base coat spray one thick coat of clear but not too thick that it runs. see if you can get a blending spray to blend your clear coat into the factory clear coat. you can get it in a rattle can. it won't come out as good as a body shop, but it'll look decent if done right.
Would you suggest primer before applying base?
 

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Like I said above, take it to a body shop. You have gone past the clear as you did not have the experience to do it correctly. More sanding will just abrade more clear.
This is my advice verbatim. Good luck and be sure to let us know how it works out.

I'm in agreement with these two gentlemen.
 

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Would you suggest primer before applying base?
Yeah. If you're down to the metal you should be spraying etch primer over the metal or else just spray a few coats of a high build primer. You wanna make sure you sand it flat though.

Sand out past where the base coat will be sprayed. So in the end you have your area of primer, then a halo of sanded clear, then clear. Then spray base over the primer. Then you can clear all the way up into the factory clear. Hope that makes sense.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thank you Antonovich for the great advice. I'll be sure to let you know the results.

And for the rest who are telling me to bring it to the body shop, thank you too and I know it saves a lot of headaches but if I want a lecture, I'd go to my daddy or mommy for advice.

The reason I'm not bringing it to a shop outweighs more than I should.

1) I already bought materials costing $200 for this repair (sand paper, polishers and compound, DA polisher, paint, clearcoat, primer, etc)
2) I'm learning new things on the way.
3) If I bring it now, it'll cost say $500, I bring it later, it'll cost about the same. So why not try to fix it to my heart's content before throwing in the white towel and pay the same amount as I would have if I had not try.
4) I'm actually enjoying the process of sanding and polishing that I never knew I would if I haven't tried.
5) This will help in the long run if I run into other damages.
6) Now that I have all the materials, I'll probably polish my whole car for my next project.

The one thing I have to avoid is, creating more damaged than it already was. In pic #1, the surfacing of primer/metal, was the initial damage and that I had sanded before. It's not anything from this repair/repaint/resand. If I had pics of the initial damage and the first repaint, you'll see how much of a recover I did this time. So all in all, not only did I recover, I'm learning how new tricks as I have my bumper I want to fix as well from a small puncture.
 
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