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Mishimoto 10th Gen Accord Catch Can Thread

33463 Views 188 Replies 48 Participants Last post by  Samuelx, 
M
Hey Guys!

I just wanted to kick this thread off and let you know that we've been working on a catch can system for the 10th generation Accord, starting with the 2.0T.



We've already had our loaner car in and out of the shop, and we'll have more info in the form of a blog post very soon!

We're also still on the hunt for a 1.5T powered Accord as well, so if you're in the DE/PA/NJ/MD area and are willing to loan out you Accord, drop me a line!

-Nick
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does anyone know which mishimoto drain kit is supposed to go with these accord 2.0t catch cans?

I've been observing the install videos made by Mishimoto for their oil catch cans on the 10th gen Accords and noticed something odd between the two engines. For the 1.5T Accords, they have the check valve installed on the outlet hose of the oil catch can. But for the 2.0T Accords, they have the check valve installed on the inlet hose. Even cross referencing the install video for the Civic Type R has the check valve installed on the outlet hose. Is this correct? I don't understand why the mechanics are flipped for just the Accord 2.0T.
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AlanTheBeastV2
xoneatom said:
I've been observing the install videos made by Mishimoto for their oil catch cans on the 10th gen Accords and noticed something odd between the two engines. For the 1.5T Accords, they have the check valve installed on the outlet hose of the oil catch can. But for the 2.0T Accords, they have the check valve installed on the inlet hose. Even cross referencing the install video for the Civic Type R has the check valve installed on the outlet hose. Is this correct? I don't understand why the mechanics are flipped for just the Accord 2.0T.
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Good catch (so to speak). I just checked the Accord 1.5 and 2.0 videos and it's like you say. So on the 1.5 if the line pressurizes the catch can has to hold the pressure.

It's not that much pressure however, so I surmise Mishi are more worried about higher speed flow than static pressure in the can. Wherever the check valve is, flow will be stopped.

In any case, from a MAP Performance Honda Civic video it appears the valve cover already has a PCV check valve (though it might not close at the same pressure as the Mishi valve). They also conclude no need for a catch can for the civic. But seeing the crud in various people's catch cans on the Accord I think it's a worthwhile long term investment.

Mine is in the clutches of UPS. They'll attempt to deliver it to me today. And I will refuse delivery. So I'll pick it up tomorrow (unless UPS need more time) and hopefully install it too. I just need some beer to bait my friend's car out of his garage.
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AlanTheBeastV2
^I got that backwards above. Twice!

On the 1.5, the check valve is on the intake manifold side of the can, so if the turbo lights up the can won't be pressurized.

Also of course, if the turbo is on then the flow would be backward towards the crankcase.

But the check valve on the PCV side (2.0 litre version per the Mishi video) would stop flow (and the can would pressurize). As mentioned above there is also a check valve as part of the valve cover assembly (at least on the Civic). That pressue would relieve immediately into the intake manifold as turbo pressure drops below the 'stored' pressure even if the PCV check valve and Mishi check valve were still closed.

I 'mouth' tested the check valve. Even the slightest pressure is blocked. So I'm guessing it's a silicone 'butterfly' type. These are very effective and last pretty much forever.

Installed it on my car last night. 1.5.
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So do you guys think for the 2.0t Accord, it's right to have the check value on the inlet? It's just that even on other cars I see it being installed on the outlet and it keeps bothering me wondering if I'll be doing it wrong.
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AlanTheBeastV2
@xoneatom I don't think it's "right" [1] and I'm puzzled over why MM did it that way.

That said, I wouldn't worry about it. The Mishimoto catchcan is pretty stout stuff and has lots of threads holding the 'can' to the top. Per some posts the boost pressure goes up to 20.8 PSI, limited by the ECU (wastegate is electric).

From what I've seen of the MM system it could withstand more than 20.8 and then some.

That's less than 1.5 bar over ambient.

But you will likely never even get close to that unless you do sustained sea level wide open throttle runs at the right RPM. (Personally most I've seen is around 16 PSI over ambient on the 1.5L).

[1] The sole "negative" is that when you let off the throttle, then that pressurized air will escape into the intake manifold so the engine might be running lean for a very short time. Say it takes 3 revolutions to balance ... won't have any noticeable or consequential effect on anything.
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Samuelx
Hi Nick/Mishimoto, PM'ed you...

I just ordered one over the phone this morning. No DriveAccord member discount but they do offer a discount if you apply (and get approved) for a sponsorship (bottom of the front page of their website). The website says it can take 7-14 days so the impatient impulse buyer in me said never mind. I ordered it the drain kit with it and the sales person said the one for my 2.0 takes the compact drain kit (there are two choices, regular and compact)… I think they are shipping from NV so hopefully I'll get it in time for the weekend...

Oops, forgot to add, they also said that it should work fine with Hondata Stage 2 reflash/mods...
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K
Posting here to see if anyone else has experienced this issue:

2018 Accord 2.0T 10AT

Purchased a catch can back during the presale years ago, never got to installing it due to moving shortly thereafter. Decided to install it a few days ago while changing my oil; ended up getting a subtle but distinct and noticeable ticking/racheting sound whenever the gas pedal is pressed or moved (happens in park, neutral, reverse, drive). Best way I could describe the sound is that of what you would hear when a racheting socket wrench is being used, or similar to that of a dive watch bezel being spun. Sound immediately goes away if the gas pedal is no longer being moved/pressed. I can repeatedly tap the pedal lightly and hear the racheting come on/off in sync with my pedal taps.

Ended up uninstalling the catch can and putting the stock PCV hose back; issue/sound is gone. Reinstalled catch can; issue/sound is back. Put the stock PCV hose back on once again for now as I wait for a reply from Mishimoto; issue/sound is gone.

Anyone else experience this type of added noise after installing their catch can?
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kamber said:
Posting here to see if anyone else has experienced this issue:

2018 Accord 2.0T 10AT

Purchased a catch can back during the presale years ago, never got to installing it due to moving shortly thereafter. Decided to install it a few days ago while changing my oil; ended up getting a subtle but distinct and noticeable ticking/racheting sound whenever the gas pedal is pressed or moved (happens in park, neutral, reverse, drive). Best way I could describe the sound is that of what you would hear when a racheting socket wrench is being used, or similar to that of a dive watch bezel being spun. Sound immediately goes away if the gas pedal is no longer being moved/pressed. I can repeatedly tap the pedal lightly and hear the racheting come on/off in sync with my pedal taps.

Ended up uninstalling the catch can and putting the stock PCV hose back; issue/sound is gone. Reinstalled catch can; issue/sound is back. Put the stock PCV hose back on once again for now as I wait for a reply from Mishimoto; issue/sound is gone.

Anyone else experience this type of added noise after installing their catch can?
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Yes that sounds very familiar. Mine also idled a bit rough so I removed the can which resolved all of that. If they respond with something useful please share here.

Found this which seems very similar to what I experienced and the thread goes on with a few suggestions as to what the cause might be.

Rattle When Pressing The Accelerator
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Samuelx
Sorry kamber, have not experienced anything like that (yet)...
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