[platinum]

I have a Audio Control LCQ1. 2013 accord has a mono high level sub signal. I see 4 ways of hooking this up to the LCQ1. Which one would be best.

1. Split the mono sub signal and hook it up to both left and right channels of the LCQ1 sub high level input.
2. Hook the mono sub signal to either the left or right channel input on the LCQ1. Use a RCA Y adapter on the output to convert to left and right channels.
3. Dont use the sub input at all. Let the LCQ1 create the sub channel output off the front and rear inputs.
4. Hook the mono sub signal to negative (-) on the left channel and positive (+) on the right channel. Is that even possible on the LCQ1

I am thinking option 1. It allows me to keep the sub control from the head unit and does not add Y connectors after the LCQ1.

 

[AudioControl]

We vote for option 1. Also, option 4 will not work, FWIW.

Good luck!
AudioControl
[email protected]

 

[platinum]

Awesome.. that's what I figured. Thanks for the confirmation.

Works great.. I got it everything dialed in last night. Would be near perfect with more bands for adjustments. Especially in the mid to high sections.

With an RTA I got it fairly flat. There are a couple of spots outside of the 1k, 2k, 8k that are down a few db.

Sounds awesome and my amp gains are set to 0 besides the sub which at 1/4th.

 

[sublimer]

i am thinking that the LCQ1 is the best option to hook up my sub, components and amp. do you have components hooked up as well? where did you tap into - before or after the factory amp? any whine or thump upon turning on?

 

[platinum]

Yes I have components. I ran new wire to and from every speaker. Factory connection goes to LCQ1 and then back to the speaker from the amps.

No thump or whine. As long as you have good connections with the right gauge and quality wire, you should never have a that.

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Hi all, ok I have a similar question. I have a 2014 accord exl v6. It has the factory separate amp (premium system). I have an lc7i from my previous car. My plan is to hook it up and run the front and rear and sub through it. I have heard that I should bypass the factory amp. Your thoughts? Also, for the sub, how should I hook it into the lc7i? It is a single sub and it will run through a mono amp. I would like to keep the factory dub intact and functional. Should I just splice the sub wires to the lc7i? Should I jump + to + and - to - so that I essentially create 2 channels to feed the amp? Any advice would be appreciated

 

[platinum]

Splice after the factory amp.. not before.

Your sub setup would be just like mine. Split the mono signal to the left and right channels. Option 1 on the first post.

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Gotcha, thanks. So in the end, how do you like the set up. I have plans to swap the fronts when I do everything else.

Platinum, what components do you have? Also do you know if the door speaker signal is full range?

 

[platinum]

I have Polk components up front. There ok for the price.

The front and rear are full channel.

It sound good. I tuned it a bit with a phone RTA. 100 times better than without without the LCQ1. Clear sound and linear all the way now.

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Great thanks. I was looking into the polls as we'll. did you do all 4 with Polk? Also what is an RTA?

 

[platinum]

Yes.. all 4 are Polk. A RTA is a real time analizer that measures sounds levels at all frequencies. You can add or subtract gain in the needed areas with an EQ.

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Ok I got ya. Unfortunately I have the lc7i so it does not have any eq functions.

Alright, I have another question for ya. Did you do away with the factory wiring in the door or reuse it. Your crossover for the components, is it in the door or under the dash? I'm guessing you just disconnected the tweeter outs from the factory amp? I'm trying to get things set in my mind before I start pulling the car apart. How did the polis fit, did you have to cut or just use a spacer? Thanks for the help!

 

[platinum]

For the fronts, I took the factory wiring for the door speaker back to the LCQ1. Then ran a new wire from the amp to the crossover module of the Polk components. I put the crossover module in the door with the speakers.

For the rear, I took the wiring from the rear deck speaker to the LCQ1. As with the front, ran a new wire from the amp to the polks.

For the sub, I took the wire and split it. The negative went to both right and left channel negative on the LCQ1 and the same for the postive. A new wire to the sub from the amp.

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Did you have to pull a new wire into the door through the grommet?

 

[platinum]

Yes.. use a metal coat hanger as a fish line.

 

[sublimer]

Splice after the factory amp.. not before.

Your sub setup would be just like mine. Split the mono signal to the left and right channels. Option 1 on the first post.

Thanks for your help with this.

Im a bit of a noob to wiring, but why would we not splice BEFORE the amp? Doesnt the factory amp just mess up the signal and make it not clean?

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Inquiring minds want to know. BTW when you fished the wire through the door, isn't there a molex plug?

 

[platinum]

Thanks for your help with this.

Im a bit of a noob to wiring, but why would we not splice BEFORE the amp? Doesnt the factory amp just mess up the signal and make it not clean?

The LCQ1 is not a line driver so if you tap before the factory amps you may not have enough signal. If your using something other than the LCQ1 and it is also a line driver you can tap before the amps. I don't know on the 2013 accord but sometimes integration for Bluetooth or other things is at the amp level, so if you tap before you may loose that functionality too.

The signal from the factory amp is normally "clean". Its really the highs and lows of the signal in various frequencies that make it sound bad. Flattening the signal so all frequencies are around the same db will make a world of difference.

Inquiring minds want to know. BTW when you fished the wire through the door, isn't there a molex plug?

It is a molex plug but you don't go through the molex plug. The rubber grommet that hold the molex plug has room for the cable.

 

[Wrenchspinner]

Ok I see. So you just abandon the factory wires. I'm guessing you also abandon the tweeter outs from the factory amp? Do you by chance have the color of the wires that I need to tap into (post factory amp). I'm in the process of building my amp rack and once I carpet it and run the power wire I will change out the speakers. You said you amped it. Did you use the grommet that is on the left side? How was it to run the wire. It looks pretty tight. Do you access it from the wheel well side with the cover removed? Thanks for the help!

 

[platinum]

The wires that would normally hook to the speaker (at the speaker location), just use those. I didn't tap new wires after the factory amp. I used the original wires to go to the LCQ1.

There are a couple different methods for getting the battery power wire through your firewall. I think I have a post somewhere with what I did but there are a couple of ways.