Awesome, that makes sense now. Would it be better to do the before method and use a line driver + LCQ1 (EQ)?
Are you happy with the SQ from the LCQ1? Would you reccomend doing the same thing you have done? Best way to go?
mono high level sub to dual RCA - LCQ1
I have a Audio Control LCQ1. 2013 accord has a mono high level sub signal. I see 4 ways of hooking this up to the LCQ1. Which one would be best.
1. Split the mono sub signal and hook it up to both left and right channels of the LCQ1 sub high level input.
2. Hook the mono sub signal to either the left or right channel input on the LCQ1. Use a RCA Y adapter on the output to convert to left and right channels.
3. Dont use the sub input at all. Let the LCQ1 create the sub channel output off the front and rear inputs.
4. Hook the mono sub signal to negative (-) on the left channel and positive (+) on the right channel. Is that even possible on the LCQ1
I am thinking option 1. It allows me to keep the sub control from the head unit and does not add Y connectors after the LCQ1.
1. Split the mono sub signal and hook it up to both left and right channels of the LCQ1 sub high level input.
2. Hook the mono sub signal to either the left or right channel input on the LCQ1. Use a RCA Y adapter on the output to convert to left and right channels.
3. Dont use the sub input at all. Let the LCQ1 create the sub channel output off the front and rear inputs.
4. Hook the mono sub signal to negative (-) on the left channel and positive (+) on the right channel. Is that even possible on the LCQ1
I am thinking option 1. It allows me to keep the sub control from the head unit and does not add Y connectors after the LCQ1.
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Are you happy with the SQ from the LCQ1? Would you reccomend doing the same thing you have done? Best way to go?
There are surely ways to get better sound. It all depends on how much money you want to spend. The LCQ1 is a cheap way to make the best out of the factory equipment.
I am very happy with the sound and have had some pretty extensive systems in my day. I'm 35 now and don't really need all that much anymore. Clear sound, flat response and some tight un-ported bass is good for me.
Its like anything else... what are you trying to accomplish? Build your system to meet those goals.
I am very happy with the sound and have had some pretty extensive systems in my day. I'm 35 now and don't really need all that much anymore. Clear sound, flat response and some tight un-ported bass is good for me.
Its like anything else... what are you trying to accomplish? Build your system to meet those goals.
Cool, that's really all that I'm lokoing for as well. Not sure what is meant by 'flat response' but a clean/clear sound and tight base is important to me - something that will make "Dire Straits - Money For Nothing" sound unrealClear sound, flat response and some tight un-ported bass is good for me.
Definitely want to keep it less expensive and I'd like to keep the installation as simple as possible. I think the LCQ1 is the way to go for me, $300-$400 isn't too bad and it seems to work well with our 2013's. I read a bunch of porblems with LCQ1 installations but happy that you have posted here for us and tell us that it works.
I think I'll pull the trigger on the LCQ1 soon, it's the last peice I need before I start my install in Jan.
Don't pay that much. I think I paid 225 shipped for a new unit. Keep looking around.
I don't think I'll be able to find any deals that ship to Canada...always get screwed for this sort of stuff. Quick search the cheapest I've found is $329 + shipping. Crutchfield.ca is sold out - might end up being harder to get than I thought...
Where do you have the LCQ1 mounted? At first I wanted everything in the trunk, but I think having the EQ up front would be nice.
Where do you have the LCQ1 mounted? At first I wanted everything in the trunk, but I think having the EQ up front would be nice.
Its in the trunk. I mounted everything on the back of the rear seat. Once you have everything set, you really shouldn't need to mess with the EQ.
Im going to post a high level setup/tuning guide that will help. There are several steps to follow that will make the whole process a bit clearer.
Im going to post a high level setup/tuning guide that will help. There are several steps to follow that will make the whole process a bit clearer.
Platinum, did you have to use spacers for the door speakers or did they bolt right up.
I did use the spacers.. I don't remember if they were needed but I did use them.
Finally started my install :banana: - enjoyable but time consuming.For the fronts, I took the factory wiring for the door speaker back to the LCQ1. Then ran a new wire from the amp to the crossover module of the Polk components. I put the crossover module in the door with the speakers.
When you say you "took the factory wiring to the LCQ1" - so you pulled the factory speaker wire from the door, back through the rubber thing, into the cabin, then ran it to the trunk?
Is this correct? I didn't think that the factory wire would be long enough to reach the trunk? I was about to run 2 brand new speaker wires from trunk to the factory amp/crossover.
Any update with a setup/tuning guide?Its in the trunk. I mounted everything on the back of the rear seat. Once you have everything set, you really shouldn't need to mess with the EQ.
Im going to post a high level setup/tuning guide that will help. There are several steps to follow that will make the whole process a bit clearer.
I'm up and running with my LCQ1 but having difficulties getting it tuned. Usually it doesn't take me very long to tune a stereo but I've only done so with an aftermarket HU, never an external EQ + factory HU settings.
Should the factory HU settings be all in the middle or all the way down? I think I still get a better sound with "FLAT ON" setting, but that doesn't help much since it resets everytime the car is turned off.
I spliced the factory wiring in the doors and added the required length to get to the trunk.Finally started my install :banana: - enjoyable but time consuming.
When you say you "took the factory wiring to the LCQ1" - so you pulled the factory speaker wire from the door, back through the rubber thing, into the cabin, then ran it to the trunk?
Is this correct? I didn't think that the factory wire would be long enough to reach the trunk? I was about to run 2 brand new speaker wires from trunk to the factory amp/crossover.
I haven't had time for the guide. Wishful thinking on my part I guess.Any update with a setup/tuning guide?
I'm up and running with my LCQ1 but having difficulties getting it tuned. Usually it doesn't take me very long to tune a stereo but I've only done so with an aftermarket HU, never an external EQ + factory HU settings.
Should the factory HU settings be all in the middle or all the way down? I think I still get a better sound with "FLAT ON" setting, but that doesn't help much since it resets everytime the car is turned off.
Your factory unit should be set to zero/middle for all the settings. Treble, bass, balance, fader, sub, etc...
Set your gains on the LCQ1 by playing a 50 or 60 Hz track in a loop. Turn your head unit to 30(I think 40 is max) then turn the gain up until the clipping light flashes on the LCQ1. When your done, gain on LCQ1 will be higher and on the amp it should be fairly low. My actual Amps are at like 1/4th.
For tuning, play pink noise from a CD in a loop at the same 30 volume. Monitor output with an RTA and adjust as needed. Goal is to get a flat line. Less db is better so don't be shy to turn knobs down instead of up.
I used the AudioTool app and added a Dayton Audio external mic to my phone. Works pretty good on the cheap. If you want it perfect take it to a shop and they will use a real RTA like something from audio control.
Thought I'd revive this before creating a new thread.For the fronts, I took the factory wiring for the door speaker back to the LCQ1. Then ran a new wire from the amp to the crossover module of the Polk components. I put the crossover module in the door with the speakers.
For the rear, I took the wiring from the rear deck speaker to the LCQ1. As with the front, ran a new wire from the amp to the polks.
For the sub, I took the wire and split it. The negative went to both right and left channel negative on the LCQ1 and the same for the postive. A new wire to the sub from the amp.
My takeaway from this is the factory amp uses a low pass crossover for the door speakers instead of a bandpass? Has anyone verified with a scope? Are these outputs possibly full range? I realize that at my age (52) I can't hear much above 12 - 13 KHz, but I'm curious.
Back story:
Before my G37 I had an 08 Accord EXVL Coupe where the amp ran full range to the front doors and Honda used passive crossovers (driver's dash and below radio) to drive the 6.5" and tweeter. I used a LCQ-1 to tap high-level from the amp to feed a Zapco 5 channel, then wired the Zapco back to the factory wiring at the amp and replaced the stock crossovers with the ones from Morel.
Now I'm in the process of trading back to an Accord (13 EXL Sedan) and have read here that Honda has eliminated the passive crossovers and now actively drives the door speakers with 7 output channels (previously 5 channels in 08). If the output to the doors is full range I can still use the LCQ-1 (assuming Honda is only doing high-pass to tweets). If it's high pass it will still work as long as the high-pass isn't much over 50 Hz. However, if Honda runs the front 6.5s bandpass or crossed over >75 Hz I'll need to figure something else out.
Thanks in advance!
-Eric
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