[Slimcity]

I have a 4cyl. 2006 accord coupe MT and I just wanted to make sure I'm understanding this swap correctly before I decide which to go with...

So the TL 17mm rear sway bar will be fine without a front upgrade but its suggested that with a TL-S 20mm rear sway bar you upgrade the front in order to prevent potentially dangerous oversteer.

Now from what I understand, there are different options for front upgrades, two of which are the Acura TL front sway bar and/or the Honda Accord coupe V6 front tower brace?

Is this accurate so far?

If so, I understand that the front sway bar swap is a "P.I.T.A" to install, how hard is it to install the V6 tower bar? and how much does the V6 bar actually help the oversteer situation?

Also, with the Eibach Springs my car is dropped pretty low and my shocks are stock. How will this affect the handling once the bar(s) are in?

Lastly, has anyone personally tried both the 17mm and 20mm bars? If so how much of a difference between the two of them? Is the difference worth the hassle and money of tying up the front too?

Your answers/opinions/comments to any of these questions will be greatly appreciated as I am very torn between the options here as I'm sure a lot of us are or were lol...

 

[the grey quincy]

The V6 coupe doesn't have a front strut brace the front struts are braced directly to the firewall. If yours isn't already like that I'm not sure if you can add those braces without drilling holes.

I have the 17mm installed and have for about 8 months or so. It's a big difference but I think I'm going to upgrade to the 23mm front and 20mm rear from the TL-S for less body roll. The front is a PITA to install but I haven't done it so I can't tell you exactly by how much. Some people have done only the 20mm rear without problems but if you did that and added an after-market strut tower brace it might add more stability and reduce oversteer but I don't know how much.

The sway bars just reduce body roll when turning so you'll lean less, especially at higher speeds. Replacing the sway bars can really only enhance the performance you already get from your springs because the car will be more stable. They don't really affect the ride quality at all while going straight.

 

[Drew03Accord]

What year Acura TL should the sway bars come from for 7th gen upgrade?

 

[7thGenCoupe]

If I remember correct 05-07 or 08. And the later yr has the hollow front bar.... or was it the earlier yr.... Your new, so I'll go easy on ya but others may not... use the "search" button. Also in the "7th gen" section there is a "sticky" near the top that says "7th gen faq" Most all your QA can be found there. If I find it though I'll post back. N-E-way the part # you will need can be found there too for both 17mm and 20mm + 27mm (front)+ bushings and clamps for all. Happy modding and good luck :thmsup:

 

[Drew03Accord]

If I remember correct 05-07 or 08. And the later yr has the hollow front bar.... or was it the earlier yr.... Your new, so I'll go easy on ya but others may not... use the "search" button. Also in the "7th gen" section there is a "sticky" near the top that says "7th gen faq" Most all your QA can be found there. If I find it though I'll post back. N-E-way the part # you will need can be found there too for both 17mm and 20mm + 27mm (front)+ bushings and clamps for all. Happy modding and good luck :thmsup:

THanks man. The truth is, there is so much info that it's hard to wade through it all so I really appreciate you answering.

 

[7thGenCoupe]

THanks man. The truth is, there is so much info that it's hard to wade through it all so I really appreciate you answering.

NP, was new once myself, still am in a lot of was As the grey quincy said. I also have the front bar, but have yet to install, however I have the 20mm rear on. From what I have gathered the ones with over steer probs with 20mm have the V6 eng. Guess the extra weight :dunno: I haven't had any probs out of mine but still plan to inst the front and deff recomend doing the front if you do 20mm rear just to be on the safe side (ev one drives dif)
but any other QA just ask. I'm sure someone will answer or at least point you in the right direction.

 

[7thGenCoupe]

What year Acura TL should the sway bars come from for 7th gen upgrade?

I hope this thread helps. Again any questions just post http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25682

A lot more info there than you asked for but read though at least first pg as I'm sure it will help you out :thumbsup:

 

[Drew03Accord]

NP, was new once myself, still am in a lot of was As the grey quincy said. I also have the front bar, but have yet to install, however I have the 20mm rear on. From what I have gathered the ones with over steer probs with 20mm have the V6 eng. Guess the extra weight :dunno: I haven't had any probs out of mine but still plan to inst the front and deff recomend doing the front if you do 20mm rear just to be on the safe side (ev one drives dif)
but any other QA just ask. I'm sure someone will answer or at least point you in the right direction.

Yeah... I'm thinking of going with the 20mm myself. The thing is that I'm coming from a heavily modded Q45 which had FSTB as well as rear sway bar along with sub-frame spacers. For a big car, that thing handled like a dream. Even though I like my Honda, I was very disappointed with the handling and knew I had to do something. I actually expected the car to handle a lot better stock. I've driven older accords, such as a 97 coupe and they seemed to have much better handling than 7th gen sedan. You could really throw them around, unlike my sedan. Haven't driven 7th gen coupe so I can't comment on those. Anyway...my point is that doing the rear alone, I suspect, will not be enough for me. I do have some apprehension because I recently installed 18 wheels with 225/40/18 tires. Of course that translates into a rougher ride which will probably be exacerbated by the bars. Guess I love having my cake and eating it too.

...Drew...

 

[The Pope]

O.k. Now this is from what I remember as I no longer have the Accord in which I had these mods on.

Adding the read 20mm only: There is a very good amount of improvement for the rear suspension. Some ppl had issues with it being too good of an improvement.

Adding the front 27mm along with the 20mm rear will balance out the car so that both front and rear suspension are very good. :thmsup:

Adding the V6 Coupe (or an aftermarket) upper strut brace will help to eliminate the front end upper body flex. A stiff body is a good thing! :thmsup:

For added body stiffness, add a CUSCO under body brace. More on it here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12091&highlight=cusco

All of these mods will not change the ride quality as that's controlled by your struts and springs. These mods will only affect the way the body reacts to/with the suspension. The more of the body’s reaction you can eliminate, the better.

Oh, one other thing. If you want to stiffen up the rear frame, a trailer hitch works real well too. Even the added weight of it, since its low on the car will help with the center of gravity.

Hope that this helped.

 

[berg]

I have the TL 17mm rear sway and the Accord V6 front tower bar im satisfied

 

[Drew03Accord]

O.k. Now this is from what I remember as I no longer have the Accord in which I had these mods on.

Adding the read 20mm only: There is a very good amount of improvement for the rear suspension. Some ppl had issues with it being too good of an improvement.

Adding the front 27mm along with the 20mm rear will balance out the car so that both front and rear suspension are very good. :thmsup:

Adding the V6 Coupe (or an aftermarket) upper strut brace will help to eliminate the front end upper body flex. A stiff body is a good thing! :thmsup:

For added body stiffness, add a CUSCO under body brace. More on it here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12091&highlight=cusco

All of these mods will not change the ride quality as that's controlled by your struts and springs. These mods will only affect the way the body reacts to/with the suspension. The more of the body’s reaction you can eliminate, the better.

Oh, one other thing. If you want to stiffen up the rear frame, a trailer hitch works real well too. Even the added weight of it, since its low on the car will help with the center of gravity.

Hope that this helped.

Thanks Pope. That Cusco brace looks real nice man. I'm in the South so I may have to get me a trailer hitch and drag a half-drum grill around - sellin rib tips so I can pay for all this crap.

Now I may truly deserve some flaming for this, but clear me up on the 27mm front bar. I thought it was also an upper brace. Is it actually a front sway bar you install under the car (like the rear) - versus the V6 and aftermarket strut tower braces? I know I just need to read through all the posts but I'm trying to do my part in reducing traffic/bandwith use on the site. Joke man, but I think some others might need this info clearly stated too.

Also, does anyone here use sub-frame spacers on the Accords? Those did wonders on my other car.

 

[Slimcity]

Adding the V6 Coupe (or an aftermarket) upper strut brace will help to eliminate the front end upper body flex. A stiff body is a good thing! :thmsup:

For added body stiffness, add a CUSCO under body brace. More on it here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=12091&highlight=cusco

So adding a front tower bar (stiffening up the front) will help with the potential excess in oversteer caused by running the 20mm sway alone?

Hope that this helped.

Absolutely did. Thank you.

 

[Slimcity]

I have the TL 17mm rear sway and the Accord V6 front tower bar im satisfied

So from what I gathered from Grey Quincy's post, your car came stock with the front tower bar so I'd have to be willing to do some drilling to run this set up in my 4cyl correct?

 

[Slimcity]

Oooo what do theeeeese do??

 

[berg]

So from what I gathered from Grey Quincy's post, your car came stock with the front tower bar so I'd have to be willing to do some drilling to run this set up in my 4cyl correct?

no it did not.i have a 2.4 ex cloth model its a 2007.i had to remove those support connecting bars to install the tower bar.the tower bar basically fits in the slots you remove those 2 bars from.Its a great look.i paid $80+ for the bar.:thmsup: No drilling direct fit man.

 

[The Pope]

Drew,

The upper bar is a Strut Brace which attaches the upper left and upper right strut towers to each other. The factory V6 Coupe is a direct bolt on for other Accords within the sane generation. All that is needed is to remove the current two braces that currently attach the strut towers to the firewall and then bolt in the one from a V6 Coupe. Some have gone as far as to add (along with the one from a V6 Coupe) an aftermarket brace, but I feel that's not needed. Look at berg's photo above. Even thou it's a little hard to see, but the V6 Coupe brace is just basically the two current braces that you already have with a third bar attaching them together.

The 27mm front bar is the Sway bar. Which installs under the car. There were two versions of this. One was a solid bar and one was hollow. It doesn't matter which one you get as they will perform the same due to the fact that it's the outside area of the bar that does all of the work.

Simcity,

It only stiffens up the Upper Body. It may help with the potential excess in overseer, but upgrading the front sway bar would be the best way to counteract this potential issue.

To answer your question about the upper strut brace ...... see above in this post where I clarified it for Drew.

 

[berg]

Look how clean his engine bay is too :naughty:

 

[rbyellow5]

If you haven't done the swap yet, here's a few pointers i learned the hard way this weekend.

1. Spray the end link/sway bar bolts with a penetrant once a day for up to a week preceding the install
2. If you have a wire brush, it would pay to use it on the bolts during this period.
3. Dont apply too much torque to the nuts holding these bolts, or you will strip out the 5mm allen heads. If you get to a point where it feels tight, back the nut off and hit it with penetrant again.
4. Once you get the nut partway off, you can use a pair of needle nose vice grips to grab onto the endlink side of the bolt, on the nonthreaded collar. Then you dont have to worry about stripping the hex head.
5. Make sure you have a set of ramps, as there isnt a lot of room to work by the muffler.
6. I installed the comptech solid bar, and whoa, body roll is reduced in the rear end, especially on incline or decline corners. Be careful with the TL bars when you first get it installed, there is a slight difference in the feel. Gradually work your way up in the corners.

Hope this helps.

 

[ryan mcgrogan]

I just installed the hfp suspension in my v6 6 spd coupe. I feel like when I hit some sort of pothole in the road or maybe if I'm making a slight curve, I feel like the rear is kinda shifting to the side. Is that what body roll is and will the TLs rear sway fix it?

 

[Mr.Incredible]

I actually just installed the 17mm rsb last weekend. The nuts came off rather easily; I sprayed the are with wd-40 and its came off without much effort. I was expecting much more i guess considering I have over 30,000 miles on my baby.

You can install it without raising the car, but it makes it so much easier if you do.