mobil 1 or valvoline. in an older motor royal purple seemed to create a lot of new leaks. I like the high mileage or extended performance mobil 1's. bought the Honda specific mobil 1 for my first oil change. you're brave for posting this since the forum police will flame you alive for not searching first.
Amsoil is my favourite, and my choice of oil. If I can't get that, Mobil 1 and Valvoline.
I run Repsol in my motorcycle when I can't get my hands on Amsoil, but I'm not sure if they make car oil or how it is.
I use Amsoil in everything I own that has an internal combustion engine. I have used it since the early 90's and it is the best oil you can buy. Nothing wrong with Honda oil, but Honda does not refine oil they have an Japanese refiner label it for them. Its good oil as are lots of other oils already mentioned. I just like using the best so that is why I choose Amsoil.
I use idemitsu 0w-20. Factory will for Honda of Canada. It's a bit more than Mobil 1 online. I get mine for just over 3 bucks a quart and that's why I run it. Plus I don't shop at Walmart so that cheap Mobil 1 they always have doesn't work for me. Mobil 1 is good stuff tho.
I'm impressed there is passion here without the steel-cage-death-match tone you can find at places like bonbistheoilguy. Notice that most posters here are talking synthetic as opposed to dino oil. I am a confirmed synthetic guy since 1976, when I used a can opener to put Mobil1 into a Rambler, for crying out loud. I have used syn ever since, for three primary reasons:
1. Syn results in less wear that could matter over 200-300k miles of use. I can say I've never had an engine oil-related failure in nearly 800,000 miles of driving, but I wouldn't say that was BECAUSE I used syn. Dino oil users can and do rack up similarly high miles. I consider this a valid reason to use syn, but note that I said "could matter".
2. At one point, I ran the numbers and the improved fuel economy and extended oil change interval of 7,500 for syn instead of 3,000 for dino at least offset the higher cost of syn. Now that all oils have maintenance minder OCIs of about 7.5k (i.e., there is no demonstrated benefit to a 3,000 mile vs 7,500 mile OCI with dino), synthetic is probably a little more expensive. But back in 1976 Mobil1 cost $4.95/qt and I could get a quart of Quaker State on sale for $0.57 at GeeBee.
3. I saved the big ones for last. In a cold climate, syn means a LOT less engine wear on startup and some days means the difference between turning over and starting up or not.
As I said, I could start a war at BITOG with this statement: some are better than others, but THEY'RE ALL GOOD. In the words of famous quality dude W. Edwards Deming, "Good quality is not necessarily high quality."
There have been stories with various degrees of truth to them. An old one: Some oil is refined from paraffinic-based Pennsylvania crude. That means it's wax-like, which means it will plate out on your engine internals leaving waxy buildups and ruining it. Utterly false, but sounds good. A newer and truer one: a well-regarded oil brand created quite an impression by draining its oil from engines and running them with no oil for extended periods at WOT in commercials. That happened, but by optimizing the additive package for this characteristic, they gave up a boatload of some other more meaningful property that contributed significantly to more rapid engine wear. I think it was an acid scavenger, but I can't remember for sure.