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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello guys.

I'll try to be as precise and informative as i can with this post, because I'm hoping someone can give me a solution and save me some money.

first the car's details:

2003 Honda Accord EX
2.4 L iV-tec, 4 cyl. Manual 5 Speed
approx. 136,000 miles

Recently i was in a small snow related accident. hit a curb. stalled the car out, and restarted up HARD. Replaced bumper, driver's side wheel and tire, re-aligned.

upon picking it up, I noticed Check engine light was on. Called insurance/body shop. They took it to a local Honda Dealer and had it scanned. It came up 2 codes P.0420 and P. 2646. they deemed the issue was not accident related and wouldn't be covered by insurance, even though no prior issues before accident. And doing research other people have had these codes after hitting deer, fender benders etc.

Anyway moving on, now its up to me to get the bottom of the situation. I'm thrifty and usually can get parts cheaper and I'm mechanically inclined enough to do the work myself.

The car itself would cut out and lose ALL acceleration (engine did not shut off) at about 3200-3500 RPM. the engine would be running, but you could put your foot to the floor and the car would do nothing. It would also Stall out when coming to a stop with the clutch in. also while sitting still the tach would fluctuate and the car seemed like it wanted to stall, and it rev'd itself up a little to keep running.

I found the the P2646 is the rocker arm control valve, or spool valve. Some online suggested i remove the part and clean it, especially the screen. I did just that, as well as the little screen piece behind the serpentine belt tensioner. Both were dirty with sand like grit. I reassembled everything as well as replaced my worn serpentine belt while i was there. I then changed the oil completely. 10W-30 Mobil 1 Full synthetic, with a high end Mobil 1 Filter.

Took it for a test drive. Stalled 1 time at a traffic light. But not again. Did the little revving thing when stopped a few times, but seemed to quit after driving for awhile. DID NOT DO the engine cut out thing at all. I had it over 5000rpm in first, and over 4000 in all gears, and 3500 in 5th. I took it on all types of roads to test it under curves, acceleration, deceleration, shifting through gears etc.

Upon doing this check engine light went out for about 5 min. then came back on. Took it to Auto-zone, same 2 codes.

so now to my questions.

1: the 2646 issue. will that code go away on its own? or do i need to get the ECM reset? Also if i see no more symptoms anymore should i bother replacing things? oil pressure sensor/sender is about $60. But the entire spool valve/solenoid i can get OEM Honda for just under $100. with a new sensor. But i'd rather not buy either if that's not my problem. A couple of guys told me the actual valve rarely goes out, its the sensor.

2: The 0420. I've been reading its anything from 1 or both of the O2 sensors, or the cat. converter, or spark plugs. I don't want to spend unnecessary money replacing everything if its just one.

3: from my description of what the vehicle is doing, and what I've done is there anything else someone may think i should look into.

Any help, suggestions, or advice would be greatly appreciated and thanks!
 

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I can see how you might get the P0420 after a hard collision, the Catalytic convertor is a metal can with a Honeycomb Ceramic structure on the inside. It could be that the Ceramic structure broke at the time of the accident. To prove this you would need to unbolt the convertor and visually inspect the Catalytic convertor.

The P0420 code is a result code, all it is saying is the Sensor past the Catalytic convertor is reading up and down waveform (switching) instead of a flat line.

Read this article on P0420 errors and how to deal with them.

http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/the-misleading-nature-of-the-po42o-code/
 

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I had a similar issue with my 04' LX Sedan. Mine was throwing code P2647 though, not 2646. I think the 2 codes are essentially saying the same thing, that you have a problem with a component of the Spool Valve assembly shown in my post here: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=75656

One of the codes is for low-voltage circuit and the other for high-voltage circuit (regarding the VTEC solenoid I'm assuming). I replaced the entire spool valve assembly ($111) and never had the issue again.. The VTEC pressure switch is like $80, and the entire spool valve assembly which includes the pressure switch is $111. I recommend changing the entire assembly. If I remember correctly, you have to remove the assembly to get to the switch anyway... It was VERY simple to do, just couldn't see much behind the engine..

As for now, disconnect the negative terminal from your battery for a minute and then reconnect. The CEL should be off and if the problem is fixed will stay off..

Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks guys,

3 days in, car seems to be running fine. No issues like before no symptoms of earlier problems. I am planning on selling the car in the summer, so i'll probably try to fix the problems in order to get the CEL to go out, so it doesnt scare away buyers, or lower the selling price, but i'm not putting a ton of money into a car i'm unloading.
 
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