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Discussion Starter #22
Any luck on sourcing a retro so you can get rid of those pretend headlights ? Man alive, those things are unsafe, both for you and other drivers (especially ONCOMING traffic).

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/universal-kits.html

I'm not sure how involved a PNP upgrade would be to your existing "projectors".
Just gotta find time. I have OEM heads but want to grab the black aftermarket em heads to do the retrofit. Can't go back to clear/silver heads after having these on, car looks a lot better with a tinted headlight.
 

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Bob's your UNCLE ...
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Just gotta find time. I have OEM heads but want to grab the black aftermarket em heads to do the retrofit. Can't go back to clear/silver heads after having these on, car looks a lot better with a tinted headlight.
So ... you do realize that you open up the headlights to do the retro right ? And you PAINT the shroud and reflector bowl once you have it opened ??

You don't need to buy another set of aftermarket headlights with black trim - spend that money on the Morimoto mini kit, it's like $250 IIRC.
 

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Runnin' in the 90s
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IMO it's safer to buy a second set to retrofit just in case something goes wrong, not only that but aftermarket headlights have softer sealant and takes less heat, force and time to open than OEM ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Finished the rear bumper mod, pics tomorrow maybe. Not fully satisfied with the cutout job I did so I may take I to body shop for fine tuning
 

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You should fix your parking skills, too. :wink
take a look at that open door.. had i parked correctly I'd have a fresh ding. I always take end spots and hug the line or wall

did those headlights hold up did they work correctly???
They "work" in the sense that they fit properly and project light.. but I wouldn't recommend them, if you look back in this thread you'll see the light beam pattern and how scattered it is as well as V-shaped on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
This is OP.. somehow my password stopped working and the email i originally signed up with is deactivated so I can't use the Forgot Password link to reset.. anyone know of an admin that can help? If not I'll just use this name moving fwd

Been a while, no major updates just keeping her running strong. Drained and filled the transmission fluid twice and replaced front brake pads last weekend, will do rears soon. Question though, when replacing the front brakes I saw this on the driver's side




How difficult is this job?
 

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It's the lower control arm bushing. You can buy it as just the lower control arm bushing if you have a press otherwise you can buy the complete lower control arm. If you just completely replace the lower control arms it's not too hard. May take a while dependent on the amount of rust and corrosion but it looks like you live where there is no salt.

To take the lower control arm off you need to pop the lower ball joint out of the lower control arm with a ball joint separator. Remove the sway bar endlinks. If they are OEM you may need to cut them off. The end links use an allen key to hold the bolt in place and it is easy to strip out.

Remove three large bolts. Two hold the control arm to the frame the third holds the strut to the lower arm. This bolt has a tendency to get rusted in place in which case penetrating oil and an impact should help. Worst case you need to cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
It's the lower control arm bushing. You can buy it as just the lower control arm bushing if you have a press otherwise you can buy the complete lower control arm. If you just completely replace the lower control arms it's not too hard. May take a while dependent on the amount of rust and corrosion but it looks like you live where there is no salt.

To take the lower control arm off you need to pop the lower ball joint out of the lower control arm with a ball joint separator. Remove the sway bar endlinks. If they are OEM you may need to cut them off. The end links use an allen key to hold the bolt in place and it is easy to strip out.

Remove three large bolts. Two hold the control arm to the frame the third holds the strut to the lower arm. This bolt has a tendency to get rusted in place in which case penetrating oil and an impact should help. Worst case you need to cut it.
Thanks for the detailed info. I'm going to play this one safe and go the dealership route. They quoted me $446 for both sides and i have a 20% coupon for service so I'll go that route, possibly call around to see if any other shops can beat it.
 

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I was able to take my lower controls arms out and took it to a shop nearby who charged me 40 dollars to press out the worn bushings and press the new bushings in
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Welp the intake didn't last long, contacted DC to see what they can offer me. May convert to Short Ram anyway, don't like taking the whole bumper off to maintain it.



 

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You don't need to take the whole bumper off to get to the well area. Just take 2 bolts and 1 plastic clip off the bottom right side then you can peel out the plastic splash shield.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
DC couldn't offer anything due to the 1 year mark passing. Grabbed an HPS Short RAM intake from eBay for 160 on an offer auction. Will toss that in and hopefully not have to worry anymore.
 
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