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Discussion Starter #1
I'm not completely done with the install yet. I still have to put my 6.5" mid-range speakers behind the door panels, so the component set is only halfway installed at the moment. I also want to clean up some of the wiring in the trunk. You can see a list of my equipment in my signature.

Let me start by showing you some pics of a few of my car audio electronics before the install.


12" Infinity Kappa Perfect Sub and box with Stinger 12 ga speaker wire


Close-up view of the magnet on the sub


Another view of the magnet on the sub


Now to some of the install.


Here you can see my 8 ga power wire and in-line 60 amp fuse.


I ran the power cable down an existing hole in the engine
compartment. The whole was perfect for the 8 ga wire.
You would need to drill it larger to fit 4 ga or bigger through
the hole though.


Here you can see the power wire comes out in the driver's side wheel well and then
goes in through a hole i drilled through the firewall.


The power and amp remote wires running down the drivers side.


My sub, box, and amp. I put velcro on the underside of the amp so that it stuck to
the carpet on the box.


Closer view of the amp on top of the box.


A side view of the amp with the power and speaker inputs as well as my capacitor mounted to the box.


The other side of my amp with the rca cables. They're 17 ft cables. I used to have a pioneer
aftermarket headunit and had to run the rcas all the way down the car to the headunit.
One is a Stinger Expert series and the other is a cheap Sosche rca cable.


Driver's side tweeter mounted to the dummy cover.


Passenger side tweeter mounted to the dummy cover.

I couldn't get the tweeter's to mount completely flush on the dummy cover because of how the cover is angled. I mounted my component crossovers under the driver and passenger side dash using velcro. I like to use velcro when possible instead of needlessly drilling holes in everything.
 

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how come you didnt use the firewall/grommet thats right above the brake pedal? and didnt want to install the tweeters in the side mirror sails?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how come you didnt use the firewall/grommet thats right above the brake pedal? and didnt want to install the tweeters in the side mirror sails?
I didn't know how the firewall grommet worked. I didn't see an opening in it for me to run the wire through. Plus, i tried asking people in a previous thread where they ran their power wire through in the firewall and no one answered me so i figured it out on my own.

I didn't install the tweeters into the mirror sails because i have manual side mirrors and the little stick that you use to move the mirrors around is practically dead center in the sail so i didn't want to try to cram a tweeter in there too.
 

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ahh i didnt really read your other posts :paranoid: haha sorry! but theres a pass through thats right on top of your brake pedal when you take apart the panels under your steering wheel. you can see that the two black wires thats wrapped in like plastic where you ran your power cable through in the engine compartment. those two black wires i think goes through the firewall.
 

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That wire is in a dangerous place. One nice bump and the tire is gonna rip it right off
Not only that, the metal edge of the hole is going to wear through the insulation and short out against the wires.......
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Not only that, the metal edge of the hole is going to wear through the insulation and short out against the wires.......
Insulation on large gauge wires is pretty thick. It would take A LOT of rubbing to get through that. There is no slack in the line, so there really is no rubbing occuring anyway. Plus, there is a rubber grommet in the hole, so the insulation is rubbing against rubber.
 

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^+1 better safe than sorry
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Also, do I need these metra adapters for the front doors that I've seen people mention so they could install aftermarket speakers in the existing 6.5" hole? If so, which ones? I haven't taken the door panels off yet so I'm unsure of what people are talking about.
 

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You'll need something, the factory door speakers have an odd shaped mounting plate that clips into, not screws into the door.

I read I dunno how many threads on here about the subject and the concensus seems to be that the Metra 82-7803 is the best option. This guy on ebay sells them the cheapest I've found.

You'll have to get some self-tapping sheet metal screws from your local big box store to attach them to the door. The speakers you buy should come with their own ring and screws that will mount the speaker to the metra ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You'll need something, the factory door speakers have an odd shaped mounting plate that clips into, not screws into the door.

I read I dunno how many threads on here about the subject and the concensus seems to be that the Metra 82-7803 is the best option. This guy on ebay sells them the cheapest I've found.

You'll have to get some self-tapping sheet metal screws from your local big box store to attach them to the door. The speakers you buy should come with their own ring and screws that will mount the speaker to the metra ring.
Thanks for the help! I'll give those a shot. I don't want to waste time taking off the door panels just to find out i can't install the speakers because i need a ring adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm very tempted to add an aftermarket headunit to my setup. I used to have a Pioneer DEH-P930 back in the day, but i'm looking at getting the Kenwood KDC-X995 that comes out next month. It has built-in Pandora connectivity, Bluetooth, HD Radio, 3x 4v pre-amp outputs, and USB.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How do you have your amp setup at the moment? Channels 1 & 2 for the rears and 3 & 4 bridged for the amp? What will you do once the front components are in?
Actually, channels 1 & 2 are for the front components. My tweeters are already running off the amp (cuz i'm still waiting to install the mid-ranger speakers from my set). My sub is running channels 3 & 4 bridged. The rear 6x9s are currently being powered by the factory HU. This is another reason why i was looking at an aftermarket HU, such as the Kenwood KDC-X995, so i could power my rear speakers off that unit. I know it's not a lot of power RMS from an aftermarket HU (usually only 22 watts) but it's better than the 7-10 watts the factory HU provides. Plus, there are so many more features that an aftermarket HU provides than the factory one.

I really don't want to spend money to buy a second amp just to power the rear's. Nor do i feel like spending $350-400 for a quality five-channel amp when i have no gripes with my current US Acoustics amp.

It's too bad US Acoustics closed shop. Their amps provided some of the best $ per watt value out there. Plus, their amp specs were based on 12.9 volts, when a running vehicle should actually provide around 13.6-14.4volts. So really, the amp is producing more power than rated.
 

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