[Lashlee]

You can simply wire some RCA tips onto the signal wiring that goes from OEM H/U to the OEM amp. The signal is clean an unfiltered and give you a much better result than the LC7i, and save you the money to boot. Many of us with the OEM Premium systems use this with excellent results.

 

[Lashlee]

Basically you will intercept the signal wiring that goes between the OEM H/U and the OEM amp that is mounted up and to the right of the glove box. The signal that Honda uses is called differential balanced, which basically an RCA without the physical connections with the addition of an extra ground wire. You (or the installer) can simply cut or tap onto the OEM positive and negative signal wires for each of the five channels to get the signal you need. It's much more complicated to type it out then to actually complete it. There are more than a few posts that have the colors denoted to tap onto for signals. The only other thing that you'll need is to tap onto the accessory lead from the key that will give you a turn on signal for the amp.

 

[Lashlee]

Thanks for that info. So the output, post factory amp, has been filtered and not ideal. And That's why it would be better to tap the output pre factory amp and go to my new amp from there?

100% correct. There are five signals sent from the OEM H/U to the OEM amp so you can tap all of them and keep front/rear fade, balance as well as the sub control from the OEM H/U. When I checked the signal with an oscilloscope it verified it to be full range, and didn't clip even at full volume, peaking at 3.0v, which is as good as most premium aftermarket H/U's.

 

[Lashlee]

Do not use the shield, you will have noise if you have it connected. Just use the positive and negative of each pair.

 

[Lashlee]

My amps and processor are mounted under the rear deck. This might be a little more difficult, but truly hides it in plain sight! Under one of the front seats could work as well, I would worry about snow/spilled fluids.

 

[Lashlee]

I think it's the best option, it still offers you the ability to tweak while keeping the trunk open for stuff. Plus my wife will have to work to scratch anything!

 

[Lashlee]

The blue writing in my signature will take you directly to my posts but here's a link: Install link

The original install post has a few more pictures of the amp rack install or feel free to ask any other questions if I didn't cover it.

 

[Lashlee]

I spoke with a few people about this issue. I just ordered the JL Audio Fix86. Apparently the colored signal that we need to flatten out. Is in the HEAD UNIT itself. To make sure the cheap factory speakers sound good. Cutting the wires after the head unit will not repair the signal in the actual head unit. This I can show you when I get my fix86. Wire it in(after the headunit before the amp). It shows the before and after results of the fix86. As a matter of fact let me find the video showing you. By just putting a loc after the headunit your pushing all the pre set color to your new high end speakers. It may sound good sill. But if your a true a audiophile you will notice the color. I'm not a audiphile, but I love good clean tunes, METAL, Classic Rock, HipHop.

Check out this video. He's an installer, doesnt work for JL Audio. Still a saleman I understand. But hey the results come in the before and after on the monitor in the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0EjSfZhYFWg



Sounds like an awesome system. Very very close to the one I'm installing in my 2017 Touring.

JL Fix86
JL c2 650 Components up front
JL c2 650 Coaxle in the rear
JL 12w6v3 in the trunk
JL HD 900/5 powering it all
Rockford Fosgate 4 Gauge wiring kit
JL 4 channel RCA's
Metra 72-7800 Speaker Harness plugs
HSB524 Speaker adapters
80mil noice sound deadening going in all 4 doors, and the area around the factory sub. Which Im just going to leave alone.

I had originally bought Pac 35 LOC's, and a few distribution blocks, and was going to run JL audio JX series amps. I already owned the JX500/1 which for the low end amps it pounded hard. So I picked up a JX400/4 for the door speakers. After much discussion and a great deal on the HD 900/5 Its a 1,000 dollar amp. I paid about 1/2 that. So I couldn't refuse and I heard its just amazing vs the JX 4 channel amps. NO comparison. That is kinda when I got into the sound processing portion of the conversation. I didnt' realize how colored the stock head units are. Its bad. So I totally believe you should stick with the sound processor. Just my 2 cents.

I haven't read the entire thread yet. I just posted cause I noticed we have the same car, and very similar equipment.

I look forward to reading it right now though.

SWEET!!!

Since you have a Touring, the signal coming from the OEM H/U before the OEM amp is clean and flat, and verified to be that way from a couple of us with an oscilloscope. You don't need the Fix, but it sounds like your determined. I'm a fan of Matt, having spoken to him on a few occasions over the years at trade shows, but his video is on a Toyota Prius with a completely different setup. I've used the output of the Premium H/U for the last three years with no issues, and KHA will also agree that the output does not have any filtering. The lower trim models do have some filtering of the signal from the OEM internal amp, but that's not the case with your car or the OP.

Good luck with the install and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Lashlee]

Bear with me, this may be a dumb question but I'm trying to learn something. The ANC is for low end cabin noise, correct? It captures the noise and plays it back out of phase, thereby cancelling it. If I understand the thread, ANC is internal to the OEM amp so replacing it obviously kills ANC. Do you guys notice an increase in cabin noise without ANC? It's one thing to have a decent sounding system but will the increased cabin noise interfere?

In the older models ('13-'15) the ANC brain is an external box outside of the OEM H/U regargless of trim (models with an internal vice external amp). Since it interfaces with the OEM H/U before the amp, it's always active unless you disconnect it. Without it most of us haven't noticed any downfall to disconnecting it.

 

[Lashlee]

That's cool that the seller is willing to work with you, and good luck with the ZR's. The ANC resets each time you cycle the key, but I would recommend simply unplugging it completely. The other side is once you bypass the OEM amp, you won't want the hassle of turning off the ANC each time.

 

[Lashlee]

The signal coming from the OEM H.U is a full range clean signal if you pull the signal from before the OEM amp (which is on a bracket up near the instrument cluster under the dash). There is an harness that is available on eBay from a seller that will let you disconnect the OEM wiring and plug in for that signal. After that it's a standard aftermarket amp install. 6.5" speakers all the way around, and most people disconnect the ANC while adding a new amp and sub. I've got a box for a single 12" sub and trim panel that fits perfectly that I would sell depending on where you're located.