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HK Moderator
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Thank you for posting this extremely detailed record.

I am still reviewing, but the 2nd timing belt job done at 43,000 / 4 years after the first timing belt job was a little early.

$1,000 a year for upkeep is just too much for an Accord, even if you are not a DIY-er.

$800 for tires and alignment- for 16 inch tires, is just too much.

At about 100,000 miles, you got the Honda V6 power steering hose replaced under warranty. But at 107,000 miles, you needed a new power steering pump? Why?

You must find another mechanic.

This is so great! I thought I was the only "crazy" person on this planet to keep such detailed records (at least that's what my wife says). I have a 4 cylinder version of the same vintage.
You cannot manage that which you don't measure. So measure!
 

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I keep a spreadsheet with same info for mine.

So far I'm out $5300 in maintenance since buying the car in March 2017 with 89k miles. But I'm third owner.

I don't suspect this number will go much higher than this for some time.
 

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Quit using Greenhaven. Oil changes/tire rotation shouldn't cost you $300.

Next time use Walmart. They're competent enough to change oil and if you buy tires there they (or Les Schwab or Discount Tire) rotate and balance them for free.

Your tires don't need to cost $150-200 each. Any $60 tire is a superior tire.

Replacing brake pads should be $120-150. Your 11/21/19 brake job shouldn't have cost over $400.

Walmart for a battery.

$800 to replace a door latch? Holy cow.

Sorry to sound like an a**.

Start asking friends for a mechanic they like and trust.
 

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Yikes.
15 large is more like what German cars can cost, over that same period...
As has been suggested, shop around for any big dollar repairs.

$800 for tires and alignment- for 16 inch tires, is just too much.
^Like Rick said, that cost is pretty crazy...and I didn't even look at your whole spreadsheet.
Again, places like Town Fair Tire, for example... do that stuff, way cheaper.

I am still reviewing, but the 2nd timing belt job done at 43,000 / 4 years after the first timing belt job was a little early.
Holy shnikes...the guy who suggested that should be hung....by his thumbs.
These belts can go 7 years( and even longer) easily.
 

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I'm wondering:

  • Why the second timing belt and water were replaced at 171781 miles, just 43000 miles later after the first timing belt job. Neither the time of 4.5 years nor the mileage of 43k miles meet the requirement of 6 years or 105k miles for replacement. That is totally unnecessary and massive waste of money, especially at the dealer.
  • Why did the starter replacement labor cost $264 on 7/19/2018? That is a half hour job. The starter on the V6 is a breeze to replace.
  • Why the radiator was replaced a WHOPPING 4 TIMES?!? The only brand you should use is Denso and it's just about $100. Talk about a massive waste of time and coolant also. -> I have yet to replace a radiator by the way, at 317000 miles.
  • NO suspension work is ever performed. You are looking at front lower joints breaking if you haven't tended to that already.
 

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Looks like you got comfortable with Greenhaven and they started to take advantage. The first oil change there was ~$70 then in a few years it went to over $150.

PS pump went bad in less than 60K?

Hood struts? Yikes!

I hope that $420 front brake job included calipers.

I'm sure some of those service jobs were pure up sell and not all critical but you paid for you peace of mind. I got rid of my 07 last year at 165XXX miles and I didn't spend a 2/10th of your costs. Of course I'm the type who will ignore the seep on the PS pump because it wasn't leaking.

Major expense was 1 and half set of tires in 10 years. Got a st free from a site sponsor also. Bought 2 set of ball joints because MOOG failed me. Did maybe 3 brake jobs all around $100 - $150 in parts. Did spark plugs once and a serpentine belt. All DIY.

I'm sure those records will help get top dollar if you decide to sell.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quit using Greenhaven. Oil changes/tire rotation shouldn't cost you $300.

Next time use Walmart. They're competent enough to change oil and if you buy tires there they (or Les Schwab or Discount Tire) rotate and balance them for free.

Your tires don't need to cost $150-200 each. Any $60 tire is a superior tire.

Replacing brake pads should be $120-150. Your 11/21/19 brake job shouldn't have cost over $400.

Walmart for a battery.

$800 to replace a door latch? Holy cow.

Sorry to sound like an a**.

Start asking friends for a mechanic they like and trust.
For all you married guys you can point at my spreadsheet to quantify the value you bring to the table when it comes to car maintenance.

I try to get referrals to mechanics but so far its hit or miss. I think Prestige Autoworks was the best one I worked with now looking back.


2005 Accord LX V6
 

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V4 Watch
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I wish i kept detailed maintenance records back when I first got my V6! I'm almost exclusively DIY'ing. I totaled up some estimates previously and it was around $2,300, most likely up to around $2,800 now for 47,000 miles and 5 years ownership now. Did you forgot to record some of the oil changes? I see a 33,000 mile gap at one point. The only oil to use for that kind of distance would be Amsoil signature series with an additional finer oil filter installed.

TO AVOID A VERY LARGE POTENTIAL EXPENSE, HAVE A SHOP CHECK THE TIGHTNESS OF THE SPARK PLUGS PERIODICALLY! These V6 engines like to work the spark plugs loose over time, and when they are loose enough the force of combustion can tear the threads out of the cylinder head. When I got my car at 135K miles, one of my spark plugs was not even hand tight! I try to check mine every 15,000 miles to be safe. if the shop wants labor, don't pay more than $50.

Shops like Discount Tire will do free rotations and balancing if you buy tires from them, even if you don't in some cases. Try to time the rotations so that the tires wear evenly and can all be replaced at once. Check for tire rebates when buying, usually they will require 4 tires for the rebate to take effect.

Cabin air filters can be replaced in under a minute, and without any tools.

Replacing the air filter in the V6 is kind of a pain, and requires tools, so i could understand not wanting to do that. Don't pay more than $20 labor.

Things like oil changes with rotation should be in the $50-$80 range. They should do the inspection for free, they are looking for their own work to do.

Tires will vary widely depending how cheap or expensive you go, but for the small and common 205/60/16 it shouldn't be more than $550 for 4. Check out the Discount Tire website for pricing, they are pretty competitive, but even then there is huge profit in tires. If you haggle, you can get them to drop the price.

Don't pay more than $80 for an alignment. Also don't let them upsell you for adjusting camber. Adjusting camber in these cars requires different parts, so it is just toe they will be adjusting.

Timing belt and water pump + tensioner and pulleys should not be more than $800. The second one was way too early.

Brake pads with rotors shouldn't be more than $250 per pair.

Also, if you really want to track total costs, track fuel and insurance costs as well!

Example:
 

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Great post and hope you don't take any of feedback as personal. I think most of the shock is that other people are willing to charge you the way they do.

I never realized what happened at the dealership until my wife went. I've provided explicit instructions and they still try to railroad her into things that don't make sense. One time I wrote a personal email because I was deployed. I described the problem and fix... Requested feedback before showing any other service. They decided to charge her almost $3K for a very simple fix. It's frustrating when you can't find people with integrity.

Good to see that you log it all. Hindsight is an amazing tool.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I try to get referrals to mechanics but so far its hit or miss. I think Prestige Autoworks was the best one I worked with now looking back.
It's too bad you can't find someone good and honest. My mom's car threw a code one time after my brother in law replaced a thermostat. The code said something about the MAP sensor being an issue.

She took it to the dealer that my nephew worked for (he recommended them because they are all nice guys) and they told her she needed a $400 tune up. Turns out my brother in law accidentally unplugged a vacuum hose to the MAP sensor. I plugged it back in and problem solved.

Here's my advice to you so you quit being taken advantage of.

1. Next time you have an issue come here first and ask.
2. Do your oil changes with someone who only does oil changes. I would recommend Walmart. Looks like your mechanics use the oil change as an opportunity to sell you their services whether they're needed or not.
3. I only buy tires from Walmart. Walmart stores are everywhere and if you get a flat or hit a curb and need a tire replaced or re-balanced you can always find a Walmart. Get tires by known brands (Goodyear, BF Goodrich, Michelin, etc.) that are in the $50-75/tire price range. Take your car in every 5000 miles for rotation and balance.
4. Batteries only from Walmart.
5. Try the Car Guys for a shop recommendation. Mechanics Files.
6. If you have to take it to a shop and the shop tells you you need your Johnson Rods re-chromed, don't let them do it right off. Have them put it in writing then come here and share that info. We'll do all we can to help out. This is a good forum too because it gets a lot of traffic, the members are knowledgeable, and almost all of us want to help.
 

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HK Moderator
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Wow @qman ! Gold!

I would add to read the owner's manual, available FREE as a pdf or to download online here: Owners Manual for | Honda | Honda Owners

You have a 2005, like me. There is a maintenance schedule printed in there- follow it and not the suggestions of upsellers.

As @qman suggested, get work suggestions in writing and post here. Smart peeps will review and offer advice BEFORE you commit.
 

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Neat! I also have all of my service records from when the car was bought new. This inspires me to put them in a spreadsheet and tally everything up too. I'm curious how much it's cost for me.
 

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You're right. Superior probably is the wrong word. There used to be a day when there were (EXPLOSIVE BOWEL MOVEMENT) tires and good tires. These days just about any American made tire is on the "good" side. Any name brand tire $60 and over is a great tire. You can spend more and probably get more but there's no need to.
 

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making a blanket statement like this is pretty wild tbh
Yeah, I tend to agree with that...
The main problem with the new poster is she's getting hosed for "services", not necessarily things like tires, you can still buy $100 tires for your car...nothing wrong with that...as long as you're not getting taken for mounting, balancing, etc.

I can't remember the last time I only paid 60 bucks for a tire...maybe when I owned my first front wheel drive car...a 1984 Corolla, I guess.
 

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I agree with others that you've been had here and there on the maintenance.

OTOH, keeping records is golden. Thanks!

Spreadsheets!
 

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ziptie princess
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You're right. Superior probably is the wrong word. There used to be a day when there were (EXPLOSIVE BOWEL MOVEMENT) tires and good tires. These days just about any American made tire is on the "good" side. Any name brand tire $60 and over is a great tire. You can spend more and probably get more but there's no need to.
i'd probably bump that up to $80ish but yea, the key is to get something that's a decent brand, no matter where it's made- i've got some korean-made hankooks on the car now and they're a vast improvement over the $60 store-brand jawns i had before

I can't remember the last time I only paid 60 bucks for a tire...maybe when I owned my first front wheel drive car...a 1984 Corolla, I guess.
yooooooooooooo 84 corolla gang (mine was an 84.5 gt-s)
 
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