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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings, all.

I'm glad to have found this forum about 3 months ago, when I first got really serious about buying a 6-6.

I've been lurking, soaking up all the tips and insight posted from the community here. Thanks so much. Because of listening to the general experiences here, I made my purchase cross-country, site unseen with no buyer's remorse (at least in my first 36 hours of ownership). Who knew my practical daily dream car would be a CT2?

From reading concerns over rev hang and speed and shift limiters, I was certain I'd want a K-tuner setup to delete those aspects. At least for now, I'm happy with the stock performance. That said, my last daily was an '09 IS250 auto and an '05 ES330 auto before that. Really, I would be getting a filter and exhaust upgrade only to hear more of it over the sound system. I plan to upgrade the OEM rear view mirror with an Auto-Vox V5 Pro (hopefully they'll re-release something more like the X1 Pro with the front facing camera on the LHD side). If I don't K-tune it, I'll only be getting Honda Hack for custom start up videos.

I got it from New England for $30k shipped to my mechanic's shop in SoCal. The original owner bought it from a large franchise dealer and sold it back to the same dealer recently with 6,100 miles on it. I HAD to pull the trigger; no question. 4 years old. It STILL has new car smell.
I had it inspected, fluids topped off and the engine oil flushed to replace with full synthetic, though the dealer back East performed the full gamut of Honda CPO inspections and service.

My mechanic found expected undercarriage rust, but said it was nothing concerning unless I wanted show competition condition. I'm in Cali. I'm leaving it for now. Is that a huge mistake? This guy is renowned in the Honda community. My best friend has been going to him since puberty. I trust him.

My last manual transmission and my only Honda was an '89 Prelude base. This 6-6 takes me back. In between those Hondas, I was in all non-Honda Japanese & Euro automatics with a few domestics in auto.

I wanted a stealthy daily with appropriate torque on demand. This is the one.

I've got the stock 18"s on new Michelins. I plan on upgrading to 18x8 or 18x8.5 +38.
Will a 2" drop make bumps and driveway ramps my bane? Should I go up to 19"s?

My mechanic recommends coilovers over air. He says air always throws off alignment. Should I take his advice or go new millennium and slam it on Accuair and get a Firestone lifetime alignment deal?
 

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2016 Honda Accord Coupe V6 6MT
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Damn, I paid like $30k plus tax for mine back in 2016 but you got a great car and I would probably spend that much again if I found one with 6K miles on it.I still love mine and it has over 105K miles on it. Get 19" wheels, it looks better. As far as lowering, if I had the money, I would get air bags for it. I didn't have the money so I went with coilovers. I hear that the K-tune is the one to get but I just bought the I-Drive because I hated feeling the lag/delay when I stepped on the gas peddle and it was a plug and play and a lot cheaper. It works for what I wanted it to get rid of. Congrats on your new car!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Damn, I paid like $30k plus tax for mine back in 2016 but you got a great car and I would probably spend that much again if I found one with 6K miles on it.I still love mine and it has over 105K miles on it. Get 19" wheels, it looks better. As far as lowering, if I had the money, I would get air bags for it. I didn't have the money so I went with coilovers. I hear that the K-tune is the one to get but I just bought the I-Drive because I hated feeling the lag/delay when I stepped on the gas peddle and it was a plug and play and a lot cheaper. It works for what I wanted it to get rid of. Congrats on your new car!!!!
Thank you, sir!
Is yours manual? If so, I am just not feeling the lag yet.
I definitely wanted the Sport/Touring 19s that you've got, but I'm concerned that inch will make the difference in bumps, potholes, comfort & overall performance. I think I'm going for the Enkei T6Rs coming out end of month, 18x8.5 +38 for about a grand.
 

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MT or death
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Peak Accord!

I've got the stock 18"s on new Michelins. I plan on upgrading to 18x8 or 18x8.5 +38.
Will a 2" drop make bumps and driveway ramps my bane? Should I go up to 19"s?

My mechanic recommends coilovers over air. He says air always throws off alignment. Should I take his advice or go new millennium and slam it on Accuair and get a Firestone lifetime alignment deal?
This is only my opinion, but PLEASE don't slam it. It's too nice of a car. A more gentle 1" drop on coilovers would be preferable and tuck the wheels up nicely. And going to 19s will definitely degrade ride comfort. I go to 17s for my snow tires and would like more rubber on my stock 18s, although they are nice rims.
 

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Gearhead Girl 🤟
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I wouldn't worry about the rust. If it's minor enough that your mechanic's not concerned, it should be fine. As long as the car's been washed to remove salt and stuff since leaving New England, the rust shouldn't spread if moved to a typically non-rusting climate, like California.

Anyway, congrats!
 

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V6 6MT CBP
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See if the HFP struts are still available, they work great and drop just short of an inch.

Get a Progress 22mm rear sway bar to firm up the rear.

Then get yourself a set of nice summer wheels and put some sticky tires on it, and you will be more than happy with how it handles.

As for the MT, get that check valve out of the slave: 2014 EX 6spd Clutch Delay Valve / Device Removed | Drive Accord Honda Forums

The K-Tuner will allow you to take the rev hang out of it also, Throttle Compensation Override is the setting, most people have found 20 to be a good daily driver setting (100 is stock).

My son is looking for a 6-6 and we saw that one you bought, it was a little over his budget. And 30k, yeah, that's more than I paid new for my 2015! Used car prices are crazy - but this one should last you a LOOOOONG time without any issues.
 

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See if the HFP struts are still available, they work great and drop just short of an inch.

Get a Progress 22mm rear sway bar to firm up the rear.

Then get yourself a set of nice summer wheels and put some sticky tires on it, and you will be more than happy with how it handles.

As for the MT, get that check valve out of the slave: 2014 EX 6spd Clutch Delay Valve / Device Removed | Drive Accord Honda Forums

The K-Tuner will allow you to take the rev hang out of it also, Throttle Compensation Override is the setting, most people have found 20 to be a good daily driver setting (100 is stock).

My son is looking for a 6-6 and we saw that one you bought, it was a little over his budget. And 30k, yeah, that's more than I paid new for my 2015! Used car prices are crazy - but this one should last you a LOOOOONG time without any issues.
You bought yours with 2015 dollars. Things are bought and sold for 2021 dollars nowadays.

2021 dollar is worth 1/30,000 of a used car.

2015 dollar was worth 1/whatever-you-paid-for-your-new-car-in-2015

A car was worth 1.00 cars in 1990, it was worth 1.00 car in 2015, it is still worth 1.00 car today.
 

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V6 6MT CBP
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You bought yours with 2015 dollars. Things are bought and sold for 2021 dollars nowadays.

2021 dollar is worth 1/30,000 of a used car.

2015 dollar was worth 1/whatever-you-paid-for-your-new-car-in-2015

A car was worth 1.00 cars in 1990, it was worth 1.00 car in 2015, it is still worth 1.00 car today.
Thanks for the economics lesson. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

The point is, used cars have NEVER been worth what they were new, unless it was a collector, and never an Accord.....

With that said, I still think a 6-6 is a good car in today's market, if you can find what you are looking for.
 

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Rust never sleeps. I purchased a crispy clean Civic once upon a time with a perfect body except for one rust spot underneath. Rock or something must have removed the metal coating at some point. It was completely deteriorated and if left, would have ended in a hole in the floorboard. Remove all the rust and primer/paint. Does not have to be done to look pretty but... Rust never sleeps and if you plan on keeping long term, get it removed.

Congats on the too new for me purchase, nice find. Enjoy!
 

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Need some LSD...
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Nice looking ride you got there, congrats. Since this is your daily driver I would not put coilovers on it, nor drop it that low. Keep it simple with maybe some 1" max lowering springs and if you go 19's that will fill in the fenders reducing the tire to fender gap, while gaining 1/2" overall diameter from 18's.
 

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Thanks for the economics lesson. :rolleyes::rolleyes:

The point is, used cars have NEVER been worth what they were new, unless it was a collector, and never an Accord.....

With that said, I still think a 6-6 is a good car in today's market, if you can find what you are looking for.
Honda never not offered a 2-door car before, so a 2-door accord, or even a civic soon will become somewhat of a rarity. I suspect 2017 accord coupe being the last accord coupe also adds a premium. We did not know that honda would kill the coupe in 2015.
 

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See if the HFP struts are still available, they work great and drop just short of an inch.

Get a Progress 22mm rear sway bar to firm up the rear.

Then get yourself a set of nice summer wheels and put some sticky tires on it, and you will be more than happy with how it handles.

As for the MT, get that check valve out of the slave: 2014 EX 6spd Clutch Delay Valve / Device Removed | Drive Accord Honda Forums

The K-Tuner will allow you to take the rev hang out of it also, Throttle Compensation Override is the setting, most people have found 20 to be a good daily driver setting (100 is stock).

My son is looking for a 6-6 and we saw that one you bought, it was a little over his budget. And 30k, yeah, that's more than I paid new for my 2015! Used car prices are crazy - but this one should last you a LOOOOONG time without any issues.
^^^^THIS on every count.

Honda never not offered a 2-door car before, so a 2-door accord, or even a civic soon will become somewhat of a rarity. I suspect 2017 accord coupe being the last accord coupe also adds a premium. We did not know that honda would kill the coupe in 2015.
Honestly, I think the manual 6-speed is responsible more than the "last of the breed" aspect. 6-speeds are so much more pleasant to drive and allow you to experience that V6 to its fullest extent and they unfortunately are quite rare yet still fairly desirable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Peak Accord!


This is only my opinion, but PLEASE don't slam it. It's too nice of a car. A more gentle 1" drop on coilovers would be preferable and tuck the wheels up nicely. And going to 19s will definitely degrade ride comfort. I go to 17s for my snow tires and would like more rubber on my stock 18s, although they are nice rims.
Thanks. Yeah, the practical side of me is thinking maybe the very modest drop from HFP. If 1" down eliminates unsightly wheel well gap, I'm open to it. Though I'll always fantasize about airing out at stops.

See if the HFP struts are still available, they work great and drop just short of an inch.

Get a Progress 22mm rear sway bar to firm up the rear.

Then get yourself a set of nice summer wheels and put some sticky tires on it, and you will be more than happy with how it handles.

As for the MT, get that check valve out of the slave: 2014 EX 6spd Clutch Delay Valve / Device Removed | Drive Accord Honda Forums

The K-Tuner will allow you to take the rev hang out of it also, Throttle Compensation Override is the setting, most people have found 20 to be a good daily driver setting (100 is stock).

My son is looking for a 6-6 and we saw that one you bought, it was a little over his budget. And 30k, yeah, that's more than I paid new for my 2015! Used car prices are crazy - but this one should last you a LOOOOONG time without any issues.
Appreciate the info, sir. I was about to purchase a new Challenger R/T manual for $34k. Something told me to check auto friggin trader, a publication I haven't checked since I bought that '89 Lude as a kid and it had just been listed. I emailed and voicemailed immediately at about 5AM EST and called them upon opening that morning.
When they heard I was serious (and, more importantly, saw an income stub) they raised the price from $25k to $26k. Taxes and shipping landed me at $30k.
 

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I'd keep the rear-view mirror unless the replacement has auto dim. Go with a high flow drop in filter. You'll be wasting your money if you go with something different. Just look at afe drop in vs. afe cold air intake numbers. Note, stock is their baseline. https://afepower.com/vehicle-platfo...da/honda-acura/13-17-accord-9th-gen-14-20-tlx

I'd make replacing the stock catback exhaust the last mod. If you are worried about emission and don't want to upgrade or delete the cats spend the money on runners and throttle body.

Sadly, my 89 prelude handles better then my 2017 accord coupe. The Accord tends under steer.
 

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Here is how they look with the HFP package and proper sized 19's. The wheel gaps close up quite nicely and it still rides very nicely but the real benefit is the handling improves greatly. Add the Progress rear sway bar and really good tires for the most impressive results. Mine autocrosses very competitively as it sits with just these few simply upgrades. Also, the HFP package comes with a full Honda warranty (one year I believe). The HFP package changes both the springs and shocks. The ground effects if you add them just gets the edges of the car closer to the ground without getting carried away and is not detrimental to everyday driving.

531123


531124


Also doesn't hurt to get wheels that make them a little more flush. The Honda HFP wheels do not fit as flush and are stupid heavy.

531125
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited by Moderator)
Rust never sleeps. I purchased a crispy clean Civic once upon a time with a perfect body except for one rust spot underneath. Rock or something must have removed the metal coating at some point. It was completely deteriorated and if left, would have ended in a hole in the floorboard. Remove all the rust and primer/paint. Does not have to be done to look pretty but... Rust never sleeps and if you plan on keeping long term, get it removed.

Congats on the too new for me purchase, nice find. Enjoy!
Thanks. I intend to. Don't know if I need to budget several grand. Gotta research locally.

Here is how they look with the HFP package and proper sized 19's. The wheel gaps close up quite nicely and it still rides very nicely but the real benefit is the handling improves greatly. Add the Progress rear sway bar and really good tires for the most impressive results. Mine autocrosses very competitively as it sits with just these few simply upgrades. Also, the HFP package comes with a full Honda warranty (one year I believe). The HFP package changes both the springs and shocks. The ground effects if you add them just gets the edges of the car closer to the ground without getting carried away and is not detrimental to everyday driving.

View attachment 531123

View attachment 531124
Cheers. Looks great. Thanks for the suggestions. I'm pretty much going for what seem to be the consensus mods in the forum.

I've literally contacted every major Honda dealer in a 100 mile radius in the months leading up to delivery (a month to get paperwork and details shuffled). Either all the HFP components for CT2s are out of stock, or none of these guys want to close a hot lead.

I tried to get the dealer to add it for me before finalizing and they couldn't even tell me if suspension was included in their $6k installed HFP package.

Nice fitment. Are you on 19x8.5 +35?

I'd keep the rear-view mirror unless the replacement has auto dim. Go with a high flow drop in filter. You'll be wasting your money if you go with something different. Just look at afe drop in vs. afe cold air intake numbers. Note, stock is their baseline. 13-17 Accord (9th Gen) / 14-20 TLX | aFe POWER

I'd make replacing the stock catback exhaust the last mod. If you are worried about emission and don't want to upgrade or delete the cats spend the money on runners and throttle body.

Sadly, my 89 prelude handles better then my 2017 accord coupe. The Accord tends under steer.
Hey, Omega. Thanks. I was leaning toward the aFe dry drop in, but my mechanic is dead set on K&N. I'm averse to the idea of oil droplets being added to the A:F.

What do you think about axle back exhausts? Borla's my top choice out of what's available for the CT2. Eventually, I want to cut and weld Mugen tips just cuz. I'm waiting for HeelToe to respond to an email asking if they're developing an ATLP axle back.

From my TF fan childhood and the color, I've been alternately calling her "Cordine", "Megatron", & "Omega Supreme". I was even considering the vanity plate "OMEGA66". Sidenote: Have you seen the War for Cybertron series on Netflix? IMO, the best depiction yet of your namesake.

My '89 Lude was so long ago that I don't remember the handling details. I haven't felt understeer on the CT2 yet, but I've only been pushing it on straightaways.

Also doesn't hurt to get wheels that make them a little more flush. The Honda HFP wheels do not fit as flush and are stupid heavy.

View attachment 531125
Agreed. 29, 30 lbs each wheel?
"Performance" (insert Dr. Evil air quotes .gif here).
 

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2017 Honda Accord, Coupe, Touring (V6, 6AT), 2017 Honda Accord Sedan, EXL V6 w/ Navi, Sensing
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Nice find. I like it! Mine is similar, but an 6AT. I enjoy driving it every time, although a manual is cooler. I do like the look of the 19 inch touring wheels, but they are heavy and will cost you some performance and a slight bit in fuel economy.
 

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Pilot without a plane
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Nice! I got the first of the era. You got the last. I toy with the idea of getting a car like yours. Just haven't been too serious about it and pulled the trigger yet.

She's beautiful! Enjoy it!
 
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