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Discussion Starter #22
There’s a plastic clip that holds the carpet in. Take that out use a long threaded rod through the speaker box into that hole with a nut on the opposite side.
That’s exactly what I did for the amp rack and figured I would do the same on the sub but wanted to hear what others were doing Incase I missed a better option.
 

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Mine fits in pretty tight so it's sits in without securing it. I don't drive too spirited around corners (1.5 with CVT) so I haven't had it come loose yet.
If you get into an accident the enclosure may go flying. I would look into securing it if it was me.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Ok I’m very close now... Got it carpeted and sound deadening lining the inside, sound deadened the entire trunk, and got my mounting bolt installed in the car and jlined up. Just waiting on some silicone to dry I used on the wire pass through. I will install the Polyfil and the subwoofer in the morning and get it installed in the car. And the hinge just cleared the box by 1/4”...lol

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Discussion Starter #26
And finally this project is done! Hallelujah I never want to see fiberglass again....lol... I mounted the enclosure using the bolt technique and then lined all around the bolt with sound deadener and then used a piece of rubber as a washer to tighten down around it to seal off the bolt hole. Since my amp was also mounted in the trunk I did a direct wire from the amp to the subwoofer with no terminals on the box. I used a combination of silicone and additional Fiberglass resin and Matt to seal off the wires in the enclosure. I can tell you the fiberglass enclosure sounds better than my wooden box.

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Discussion Starter #28
Super nice... I'd pay for one if there was a seller... How many hours total do you estimate?
I have about $150 in materials as the resin is quite pricey, and I started the project last Saturday and finished it up this Sunday, my guess would be 12 to 15 hours total. But some of that time was sound deadening the trunk, figuring out the mounting and mounting, and lastly running new speaker wires since I didn’t use a terminal I ran new speaker wire from the woofer straight to the amp. I bet I have at least 12hrs on the enclosure.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I had been looking for a grill to protect the subwoofer but just didn’t like the universal ones I see. With the exception of the bar style but they don’t offer enough coverage. I took a chance and ordered the kicker grill but went with the 12” because I didn’t think it would line up with the holes on my sub. I had to do just a bit of modification to the grill but it mounted with no problems and offers full protection from items in the trunk.

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Discussion Starter #32
I got the JBL components installed in the front doors today and mounted the Alpine Power Pack amp and connected them. This little amp really makes the components scream for only being 45 watts rms x four channels. I’ll try and get the new JBL coaxials I stalled in the rear deck tomorrow and get all the wiring finished up. I used the stock speakers as brackets for the new speakers and the fit like a glove, I had no intention of ever reinstalling them so they we’re going in the trash anyway. The tweeters fit right into the factory housing and I I seduce hot glue to hold them in place.

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Got the rear deck speakers in and sound deadened along with the Alpine Power Pack to power the new speakers. The power pack really makes the new speakers scream considering it’s rated at 45 watts rms x 4 channels.

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Discussion Starter #35 (Edited)
I mounted mine inside the door panel just above the 6 1/2” and to the right just a bit. Because I covered the entire door with sound deadening material I really had the choice to mount them anywhere there was space within the door panel. I super glued a piece of Velcro to both the sound deadening material and the other half to the crossover. Because the sound deadening material has some give this allowed plenty of room to not interfere with the panel or the internals of the door. I really don’t see myself ever making any changes to the tweeter setting because I can still adjust them in the head unit. If anything I turned them down some because of how much better than stock they were. Just take a little time tuning them and the radio settings before reinstalling the door panel and you should be good. I looked at the kick panel area and the drivers side is very tight with a lot going on under there. I also reinstalled the vapor barrier back on top of my crossovers.

About where the red square is below

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Here is a pic of someone on here that I looked at before mounting mine. I covered mine up with the white barrier because it’s mounted to the sound deadening material.

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