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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 2005 Accord EX 4 cyl, 117K miles on it...with ABS.

I'm getting clicking on both front ends when turning, and I know the driver's side had a small rip in the boot when the mechanic checked it out about a month ago. So he gave me the heads-up that would need some attention sooner or later.

I get the same clicking sound turning left or right on acceleration from a dead stop.

I'm under the impression it's easier to replace the entire halfshaft assembly, and I'd just as soon go ahead and do that now to give myself peace of mind.

That being said, I'm looking for a good DIY tutorial online somewhere to walk me through the process. YouTube usually has some good videos, and I try to find them specific to my Accord gen...but wondering if that's necessary for this job. Any directions would be appreciated.
 

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<= Jeep differential LOL.
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I replaced both CV axles on my 2004 about a year ago.

Jack up the car and rest it on jack stands under the subframe.
Remove rim/tire.

Loosen the axle nut. Have someone stand on the brake pedal while you go at it with a 36" breaker bar. The nut is peened into a groove in the axle stub, so it will be somewhat difficult.

Loosen lower ball joint nut a few turns. Put a jack under the ball joint and compress the suspension somewhat. Place a small socket (10-12mm) between the knuckle and the lower control arm. Release the pressure on the jack and the coilover will push down and hopefully pop the balljoint loose. Do not remove the balljoint nut completely prior to popping the joint or things will get violent.

Remove the bottom bolt on the coilover that holds it to the lower control arm.

Pull the knuckle outboard and remove the axle stub from the wheel bearing. Use a pry bar/block of wood and mini-sledge to knock the inboard end of the CV axle off of whatever it connects to. The drivers side goes directly into the trans while the passenger side connects to the intermediate shaft. Pry/smack the inner CV axle connection towards outboard. It is held in by a sort of compression spring ring. It will come off with enough force. Smack it and then go 180 degrees opposite of the shaft for maximum effect.

Check intermediate shaft bearing play. This is located right below the oil filter and mine gets a good bath of oil whenever I change my engine oil/filter. No idea what the spec is, but it should be close to zero slop.

Put everything back on in reverse order.

Make sure to smack the inboard CV connection so it securely goes into the transmission/onto the intermediate shaft. I did not do this correctly the first time and when I went around a right hand curve, a bunch of trans fluid (manual) came out where the CV shaft did not make a complete seal with the transmission. If I recall correctly, there should be barely enough room to get your finger (the tip, no deeper than fingernail/first knuckle) between the CV axle and the trans/diff housing.

Put the other end of the axle through the wheel bearing.

Reconnect the coilover and ball joint. I coated the bolt at the bottom of the coilover with copious amounts of grease. Torque to spec. I have no idea what torques are offhand. Install new cotter pin in the ball joint castle nut.

Install and tighten the new axle nut. I don't recall what it is, but 130-150 ft*lbs sounds good. Have a friend stand on the brake pedal while you do this.

Peen the flange on the nut into the groove on the axle stub with a punch and sledgehammer. This prevents the axle nut from coming loose in an extraordinary situation.

Put tire/rim back on. I think I had both sides done in 1-1.25 hours.

EDIT: I do not believe the calipers/rotors had to come off, but that is entirely possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Toshbar, if you don't mind me asking, what brand did you go with on your CV axles, and where did you get them from?
 

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Maybe ill try to do a video when I do mine this weekend or next weekend.

It will probably be a long video, the process is not as easy as it sounds.

Another one of my axles are clicking so i'll be doing another one soon.

OEM is the best
GSP from advanced auto are horrible, i wouldn't recommend these
Raxles were really good, but only lasted me 30K+ on a dropped car
Cardone what I am using now on one side, other side will be replaced with the same. I will be using these till my raxles are refurbed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A video would be great, digitalh3lix. That way I get a visual for what to look for. I've heard Cardone is the way to go, sounds like you think the same.
 

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<= Jeep differential LOL.
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Toshbar, if you don't mind me asking, what brand did you go with on your CV axles, and where did you get them from?
Glad I could help. I came accross your thread last night late and just quickly typed that up from what I remember doing to my car. I believe I have a few pictures from my swap, but it is really not that hard. The first one will probably take you an hour to an hour and a half and the second side will take you maybe 30-40 min.


I went with the new manufacture A1 Cardone. The reason I replaced mine was that I was getting the side to side shimmy under acceleration from 30-32mph and again from 60-65.

After replacing them, the shimmy went away for a few months but now it is back. It really doesn't bother me that much so I'm just going to roll with it.

The cardone units do not have the rubber piece in the center of the shaft as the stock ones did. I guess this was some sort of harmonic balancer.
 

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One more thing....

I caked on some grease to both splined ends of the new axles before installing. Also put some anti-seize on the threads of the axle stub where the nut goes.
 
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