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· Turbo lag
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Look at the service manual. That is step by step.

I did it when I had the exhaust removed when swapping to the bigger turbo, so it was just supporting the engine with a jack and removing the 3?4? bolts. Super easy. You'll need a super long 3/8" extension so you can reach that horizontal bolt through the driverside wheel well. I think I stacked like 4' of extension.
 
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I had to do this myself, I ended up placing a jack with a piece of wood on it beneath the oil pan to slightly let pressure off the mount. I removed the strut brace and used a very long extension with my impact to undo the 14mm bolts (I think they're 14 or 15, I don't remember). I ended up mostly laying on top of the engine cover and had to get the driver side bolt out by fishing my socket extension combo in near where the fuse box is. I then undid the cross through bolt with a normal ratcheting wrench and it eventually came all the way out. When you reinstall, hand tighten the 3 mounting bolts first and then put in the cross member bolt. Take your time here, you don't want to crossthread these bolts or force anything in. You will have to jack down the engine slightly and wiggled the mount back and forth until everything lines up.

See images below for removal and reinstall.

Font Line Parallel Drawing Design
Font Engineering Parallel Auto part Diagram
Triangle Slope Font Parallel Engineering
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the help. I was able to replace the rear motor mount today with few problems. It was not very difficult. I did reach an impasse, I am having difficulty getting the long bolt lined up in the bracket, the bolt that goes through the bracket and motor mount. Any tips on getting the bolt threaded and started once through the bracket and engine mount?
 

· Turbo lag
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You probably should play with the height of the jack under the engine until everything line up.
Alternatively, you can loosen the vertical mounting bolts to give it some vertical play, thread in the horizontal bolt in first, then tighten the mounting bolts back down.
 
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Thanks for all the help. I was able to replace the rear motor mount today with few problems. It was not very difficult. I did reach an impasse, I am having difficulty getting the long bolt lined up in the bracket, the bolt that goes through the bracket and motor mount. Any tips on getting the bolt threaded and started once through the bracket and engine mount?
You'll want to keep the mount loose and you should be able to wiggle the engine around with it sitting on the jack w/ a piece of wood. I've found using silicone lube helps line up the mount and the bracket just a tad easier and then I ended up sticking a small screwdriver on the opposite side of the hole where the bolt goes through to get the bolt started and I was able to kinda push it the rest of the way through while spinning the long bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the advice, instructions, and diagrams. I was able to remove and install the rear engine mount in under an hour. First I supported the engine with a jack and 2x4 under transmission/engine. I first removed the long bolt that goes through the bracket and engine mount. I then removed the engine mount and bracket that attaches to the engine. Together as a unit with the long bolt going through the bracket and engine mount, I installed the engine mount and bracket. I lined up all bolt holes and just hand tightened each bolt until all were installed. I then torqued down all bolts.
 

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Thanks for all the advice, instructions, and diagrams. I was able to remove and install the rear engine mount in under an hour. First I supported the engine with a jack and 2x4 under transmission/engine. I first removed the long bolt that goes through the bracket and engine mount. I then removed the engine mount and bracket that attaches to the engine. Together as a unit with the long bolt going through the bracket and engine mount, I installed the engine mount and bracket. I lined up all bolt holes and just hand tightened each bolt until all were installed. I then torqued down all bolts.
Did you remove the mount from the top of the engine bay or underneath? Thanks!
 

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Just wondering, what symptoms did you run into to end up deciding to swap the rear engine mount? I believe I may have an engine mount problem, but not sure which one it might be.
For me I noticed more vibrations in the cabin especially in drive, foot on the brake with the AC on. It helped solve that issue. I also took pics of the mount and saw cracking on it so I figured it's now or in a year or 2 and bit the bullet. Just visually inspect the mounts, I believe some of them are fluid filled so if you see cracking, or oil leaking from them then it's time for new ones. Also go OEM, you will not save money using junk chinese aftermarket mounts.
 
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