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Need Help! 2016 Accord Sport Clutch Fluid Change.

2K views 7 replies 4 participants last post by  Ackersnacks 
#1 ·
Hey everyone,

I am new to this form, and this is my first post here. I have a 2016 Accord Sport MT. I bought it new Nov 2015, and I will have owned it for six years next week. Anyways, I'm not a mechanic, but do my best to do all my own maintenance. If it's something I haven't done I like to learn how. Doing enough research I know brake fluid is used in the clutch system, and can become acidic after approximately three years. I am up to date on all of my fluid changes except for my clutch. I've tried to do as much research as I can, but I can't seem to find a common DIY for a "newbie" on how to replace the fluid. Every thread or video I've found online lists a bunch of different methods, but everyone always seems to go back on forth on the "correct" method. For those who have experience in bleeding the clutch, if that's the correct term, could you please share the steps and any hints or tricks which may make the job easier, to include the best way to keep air from entering the system during the job, or post a link for a trusted thread or video?

Would anyone also happen to know how much brake fluid I'll need to complete the job? Thanks in advance for the help, everyone!
 
#2 ·
1. Open the clutch fluid reservoir and suck out as much fluid as you can. Then top off with new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Leave the cap off.

2. Find and locate the bleeder on the slave cylinder. I'm not sure on the I4's, but it is easier to remove the one bracket that is bolted to the one side of the slave for access to the bleeder valve. Its a 10mm.

3. Crack open the bleeder valve, and attach a hose, or have a rag there to catch any fluid that will come out.

4. Now go inside the car, and SLOWLY press the clutch pedal to the floor, leave it on the floor, it will stay there.

5. Go back out and CLOSE the bleeder valve. Now go inside the car and SLOWLY pull the pedal back up to its upper position.

Repeat 3/4/5 two, maybe three times before you will need to top off the fluid again (The reservoir is small!) DON'T LET IT RUN LOW!

You may need to do this 3 or 4 times until all clean fluid is coming out. After the last time you close the bleeder, you will need to pump the clutch pedal up and down a few times (With the bleeder closed) to create the pressure in the system to push the slave into the fork.

Done.
 
#3 ·
1. Open the clutch fluid reservoir and suck out as much fluid as you can. Then top off with new DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. Leave the cap off.

2. Find and locate the bleeder on the slave cylinder. I'm not sure on the I4's, but it is easier to remove the one bracket that is bolted to the one side of the slave for access to the bleeder valve. Its a 10mm.

3. Crack open the bleeder valve, and attach a hose, or have a rag there to catch any fluid that will come out.

4. Now go inside the car, and SLOWLY press the clutch pedal to the floor, leave it on the floor, it will stay there.

5. Go back out and CLOSE the bleeder valve. Now go inside the car and SLOWLY pull the pedal back up to its upper position.

Repeat 3/4/5 two, maybe three times before you will need to top off the fluid again (The reservoir is small!) DON'T LET IT RUN LOW!

You may need to do this 3 or 4 times until all clean fluid is coming out. After the last time you close the bleeder, you will need to pump the clutch pedal up and down a few times (With the bleeder closed) to create the pressure in the system to push the slave into the fork.

Done.
Thank you! By chance you wouldn't happen to know the diameter of the tube I could get to put over the bleeder valve, would you? I did plan on using Dot 3 fluid from Honda. I'm not sure what the capacity of the containers they sell are, but do you think one would do the trick, or would I need two?
 
#5 ·
I've been using the one person bleeding technique with great success on my Honda manual transmission. Submerge the drain tube under some brake fluid in a plastic bottle to prevent back syphoning so that you don't have to run back and forth. It's very much like bleeding brakes except it's much easier since the bleed nipple is easily reached behind the radiator.
 
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