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I need help and advice please. Just flew in to Los Angeles, and my Sis-in-Law's 2005 Accord 4 cylinder "overheated" yesterday before I arrived. She shut if off immediately, and I am wondering if the auto repair place that replaced her starter last week did something weird- because they told her they would buy the car for $1,500 since it was "old" The car has 130,000 miles on it- that's it.

I will tackle issues one at a time- first up is the lower radiator hose as it connects to the engine block (not the radiator). It is loose at the connection. As strange as this is going to sound, I have no idea if it is a clamping issue, designed to give a little, or what. I will add distilled water this afternoon and see what happens, but wanted to know about that fitting first. Where the hose connects to the plastic fitting- that plastic fitting moves. I am doing too many things right now, so I apologize if I am coming off as a spaz.

Should this be steadfast, or should this move?
 

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That sounds like a very fishy situation the fact the shop wanted to buy it. I'm the type of person that thinks it's too much of a coincidence.

But... coincidences do happen.
 

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My guess, and it is just a guess, is that part probably isn't supposed to move. But, I don't know for sure. I don't think my car(s) have a plastic fitting on that outlet at all, just a metal outlet where the hose gets clamped on.

Is it leaking now? I think that'll tell you for sure.

It's possible that they bumped or pushed on the hose, and maybe the fitting got damaged somehow? I'm not sure. No way to prove it however, so I wouldn't fret too much about it, since there's not much you can do about it. I'd tell your sister to maybe take the car somewhere else next time, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, this is weird. There is an obstruction in the air intyake tube also (she has erratic idle) and the battery terminals are corroded (just serviced two weeks ago at this service place)
 

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Nothing with a clamp, or hose should ever move. OEM clamps, or the screw types? OEM give better and even pressure on hose.

Moving at those points = bad seal = leak.

Starter on 4 cyclinders require intake mani to be removed as well as positive terminal cable unplugging, if I recall correctly. I went ahead and changed the positive as well, since it was due.
 

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Is this the fitting you are talking about?
He was pulling hard on the hose and nothing moved.

 

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The lower hose connection is to a plastic adapter it has an O-ring and is held in by a metal lock ring. Make sure there is a spring clamp on the hose on the thermostat housing. Those plastic adapters break.

Here is a good video showing how to replace the thermostat, it shows the adapter.


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Hi,I have a 2005 honda accord 2.4 and just ran into a similar situation.I had my starter replaced at a local shop.Then shortly thereafter discovered the coolant reservoir and low on coolant.There was a drip of antifreeze on the thermostat housing unit bolt.I replaced.Tried tightening the 3 ten mm bolts,which were tight I replaced the thermostat housing unit.Napa had one for $60.00.You will need a 3/8 swivel head and a 10mm socket.Three bolts and pull up the fastener,to release the housing from the hose.Just don't overtighten the bolts,cause the housing is plastic,and can crack easily Hope this helps,Tim

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I need help and advice please. Just flew in to Los Angeles, and my Sis-in-Law's 2005 Accord 4 cylinder "overheated" yesterday before I arrived. She shut if off immediately, and I am wondering if the auto repair place that replaced her starter last week did something weird- because they told her they would buy the car for $1,500 since it was "old" The car has 130,000 miles on it- that's it.

I will tackle issues one at a time- first up is the lower radiator hose as it connects to the engine block (not the radiator). It is loose at the connection. As strange as this is going to sound, I have no idea if it is a clamping issue, designed to give a little, or what. I will add distilled water this afternoon and see what happens, but wanted to know about that fitting first. Where the hose connects to the plastic fitting- that plastic fitting moves. I am doing too many things right now, so I apologize if I am coming off as a spaz.

Should this be steadfast, or should this move?
Hello! Welcome to Drive Accord.

What color is your Sis-in-Law's car?
 

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HK Moderator
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Discussion Starter #10
^Ha ha, it's silver, what.....d'oh!

Thank you all for advice. I went to the mechanic shop twice and pointed out each and everything wrong, and what I believed was "broken" during the recent starter replacement repair. I began by introducing myself, and then telling them that there was no way we were going to sell this car.

They replaced that fitting. Then the idle was up and down and they said the code popped up for the idle air control valve. I said to burp the system first. They did, and the idle improved, but was still erratic. My S-I-Law showed me some printed sheets from Autozone showing that she had a code read at Autozone 5 months ago, and it was for the IACV. So....that could not have been from the starter. The mechanic replaced the IACV, then the heater control valve started leaking. No idea what was going on- but they replaced that next- no charge.

It runs great now, but I had to step in and point some things out. There were several forum write-ups I saw about the IACV and to burp the system first, as well as about how cleaning it and not re-lubing properly could cause another failure- so we just did a new one.

There was no labor charge today- I think it was because they just wanted to get rid of me. It's done.

Thank you, all.
 

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I became more familiar with this very same thing on my I4 from having done coolant service over the summer.

Lower hose indeed has a latch-type fitting. Fitting is angled for easy insertion into thermostat assembly. It's all plastic.

If this was loose, it's because they tried connecting hose directly onto thermostat assembly, or did some other botched job.

This is what it's supposed to look like.

 

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I can tell you positively that if the mechanic has big @$$ hands and think he cannot maneuver around to get the starter out, then he will disconnect the radiator hose to get to the starter from down below. And when you clamp back the spring clamp onto the same old radiator hose, it needs to go back to the exact same location as before following the imprint of the clamp on the hose. If this isn't done, then it will leak. That permanent imprint of the clamp, once moved onto the hose, is what creates the seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you gents. Indeed they replaced the starter from "down below" rather than from the procedure calling for removing the intake plenum. In the picture kindly provided by @I am Confused it is the plastic fitting in the upper left hand of the photo, and it "swivels" or moves 1/8 of an inch.

Today is the Lunar New Year, so before family dinner and afternoon parade, I will do some basic maintenance to the car including writing the part number and linking to a video to replace that plastic housing should it fail when I am around. I will have to try and find a good shop for my Sis-in-Law. But trans drain and fill, filters, and general stuff is on the agenda today.

She used to go to that shop for years, and they did good honest work. The owner passed away 3 months ago, and a nephew bought it. He also owns the dealer used car lot next door. No advertising- he sells Toyota and Honda to "fresh off the plane" Vietnamese.

She checks her oil and trans fluid every week, and even looks at the temp gauge often- so she caught it early.
 

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You're very welcome.

Part number you need is 19503-RAA-A01. It's called quick water connector.


Autozone likely won't carry it. You will have to buy this at Honda. It's $50 part where I live.

Like @t-rd said, you'll have to pay attention to grooves created by the clamps when putting it back. Might as well save yourself the trouble and replace the lower hose while you're there.
 
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