Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I need some advice. I've got my 4 cyl Accord running great and clean but now it's time to fix some of the worn out suspension components. The bushings are completely shot on this car, worse than my older car with more miles. Does road salt prematurely wear bushings as well? This car lived in in PA for ONE year, apparently enough to inflict some serious damage.

So where do I start? Every bushing that I've observed on the car is comply busted. Upper and lower control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. Sounds like an absolute tin can going down the road.

Should I just replace the control arms since they come with the bushing already nicely installed? Is there a decent kit that can cover all of these parts? I think it's time for a lot of these rusted worn out suspension parts to go. The steering isn't as crisp as I would like it either.

TIA
 

·
8th Gen Believer
Joined
·
3,972 Posts
Do you DIY? Bushings and control arms, OEM, probably won't break the bank. See if the rack may be leaking, if so that would break my bank anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you DIY? Bushings and control arms, OEM, probably won't break the bank. See if the rack may be leaking, if so that would break my bank anyway.
I do DIY but I have never done suspension work. I'm not afraid to try though. Its a bit crusty down there, so I expect it to be a PITA even if its pretty straightforward. No loss in steering fluid, I don't think its leaking. I have two Accords, and this car has less responsive steering than my V6 which is older and has more miles (didn't live up north, though). The car just seems to wander in the lane a bit even when driving straight, especially at higher speeds. I'm think the ball joints and/or might be worn, but this isn't my area of expertise. I don't think its bad enough to be unsafe. The biggest problem is feeling every single bump in the road, even though I have new tires. Front, back, left, right, they're all completely shot, and I don't have a tool to easily take them apart nor do I have a bearing press kit. Since everything has a bit of rust on it, I was hoping there might be a kit that could cover a wide array of parts.
 

·
Kaua‘i North Shore Boi.Aloha❤️🤙💪😊
Joined
·
154 Posts
Aloha.. I had a ball joint bust on Me on the highway.. Good fun! (Not).. Fixed that, and discovered it affected my driver's side axle.. replaced that. I had previously done a TON of engine work so, definitely time for suspension. My stabilizer (or Sway) bar bushings had been shot for a while. I replaced those AND then the End Links and those made a world of difference. I'm still not done with suspension, , but it's a LOT less creaking and banging noises.. next is new struts. for the stabilizer bar replacement, try to have all four tires on the ground and the car level, and mark the bushings brackets location on the bar to reallign it. I have two almost foot high ramps for the front tires and used two 4x4s and two 2x6s for the back. Haha After tightening, reverse off 4 feet, then drive back up and retighten for any adjusting/settling.. Good luck!
Aloha
 
  • Like
Reactions: bcgreen

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Aloha.. I had a ball joint bust on Me on the highway.. Good fun! (Not).. Fixed that, and discovered it affected my driver's side axle.. replaced that. I had previously done a TON of engine work so, definitely time for suspension. My stabilizer (or Sway) bar bushings had been shot for a while. I replaced those AND then the End Links and those made a world of difference. I'm still not done with suspension, , but it's a LOT less creaking and banging noises.. next is new struts. for the stabilizer bar replacement, try to have all four tires on the ground and the car level, and mark the bushings brackets location on the bar to reallign it. I have two almost foot high ramps for the front tires and used two 4x4s and two 2x6s for the back. Haha After tightening, reverse off 4 feet, then drive back up and retighten for any adjusting/settling.. Good luck!
Aloha
Thanks for the tips. My mechanic told me many years ago that I needed new sway bar bushings and a list of other parts I have since forgotten. Sure enough, if I pull on the sway bar, front or rear, it has freeplay and makes noise. Is this what causes the washboard feeling when I go over an uneven road?

Delete

530017
530018
530019
530020


Looking awfully crusty up there.
 

·
8th Gen Believer
Joined
·
3,972 Posts
I don't know what your budget is, but your struts are probably shot. If you want to keep the car and replace the end links, I'd get a 22mm Progress rear sway bar. That will help with the washboard action as well as body roll. Probably tie rod ends are affecting steering & handling. While you're under there, check for seepage from the rack. You got a lot going on, best of luck with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't know what your budget is, but your struts are probably shot. If you want to keep the car and replace the end links, I'd get a 22mm Progress rear sway bar. That will help with the washboard action as well as body roll. Probably tie rod ends are affecting steering & handling. While you're under there, check for seepage from the rack. You got a lot going on, best of luck with it.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to keep it as low budget as possible given the sheer volume of parts that need to be replaced. I will start with the lowest hanging fruit and work my way toward the more expensive repairs.

I also need to find a replacement seat because it's too uncomfortable to drive for long periods.

530021
530022
530023


Aside from the bumper damage and one big dent it looks okay cosmetically considering the age. I just cleaned it up real good, waxed and applied paint protectant.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I jacked the car up yesterday and did some inspection. I ordered an end link kit for the front and rear sway bar as well as a bushing and bracket kit. I also ordered front upper control arms. The lower control arms didn't look great either, but better than the ones up top.

Hopefully this will make an appreciable difference. All of these parts look relatively easy to replace. If I have no difficulties then maybe I will feel up to doing the lower control arms, tie rods and other parts in the near future.

Upper control arms: $42
End link kit: $33
Bushing kit: $31

Bought from Amazon and all parts will be here by Wednesday, with some arriving next day! $106 including tax and shipping can't be beat.

AutoZone wanted $110 for each control arm 😆 Amazon has a solid customer rating system and most of these parts have at least a 4.5 out of 5 with a solid # of the reviews.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My recommendation to anyone attempting to do this repair: don't.

The stabilizer bar end links are impossible to remove. The passenger side end link took me around an hour and a half to remove. PB blaster, flame, PB blaster, flame, over and over and over again. Have to use a wrench with the hex to remove but there's so much rust I need a huge extension on my wrench to break it free, which there isn't room for. Cue bruised hands, knuckles, and lots of contorting of my body to achieve minimal effect. It wasn't easy to install the new one either, and now that I'm in there and looking more its obvious the lower control arms need to go. Given the sheer difficulty of getting these things on and off, it doesn't make sense to put the car back together and do the rest of the job later.

The drivers side front stabilizer link will not come out. I have tried everything and have no other ideas on how to remove it without buying a saw and cutting it off. More money. (n)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Anyone who can offer help here please, I'm stuck for the moment. The 14 mm nut on the top part of the sway bar linkage where the linkage meets the stabilizer bar is seized with rust and will not come away with any amount of PB blaster and propane torch. The nut that connects to the lower control arm was easily removed.

With no other options I decided to hammer the shit out of it and now I'm left with just the upper part of the joint, which separated from the rest of the linkage. The rust is so strong it might as well be welded in place. The nut will spin in place with a ratchet and a LOT of brute strength but if I try to put a closed end wrench AND the hex key needed to keep it from spinning, the nut just starts to round off. Even with a line wrench, tons of PB blaster, and enough heat to set it on fire.

I have seen videos of someone spinning the nut off by using vice grips on the ball joint or perhaps just cutting it off entirely. The vice grips I have aren't sufficient quality to get the job done. I tried using a pair of channellocks and a ratchet but realistically I would need four sets of hands to have the ability to do that.

What's my best bet? Maybe a friend can hold the pliers while I ratchet, or should I just chop it off and if so, what tool do I need?

One other thing about this that stood out to me is the parts I purchased from Amazon. The supplier was "Million Parts Warehouse," and I wasn't sure the exact brand name. Turns out, they are MOOG parts after looking up the numbers on them. The MOOG linkages were $15 each, or $60 total. I got the same parts blind for half price. There's an oddity, though. For the passenger linkage, one of the joints was relatively easy to move to get it to fit. On the driver side linkage, both joints are completely locked into place and do not move at all. Hope that makes sense but I expected both parts to be essentially the same?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,632 Posts
Take pictures?

I think what I'd do in your situation is just cut them off. Use an angle grinder and get replacement parts from a stealership, or if you're fine with used parts, a local JY to pull any necessary parts off of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Take pictures?

I think what I'd do in your situation is just cut them off. Use an angle grinder and get replacement parts from a stealership, or if you're fine with used parts, a local JY to pull any necessary parts off of.
530168


Another day completely different result! Using vise grips on the ball and a 14 mm ratchet I finally got it to come undone! The PB blaster spray has been applied vigorously for days so that might have finally helped to break it free.
 

·
Kaua‘i North Shore Boi.Aloha❤️🤙💪😊
Joined
·
154 Posts
Ahhhhh yes.. lovely lol 😲😁
Sorry for laughing but same thing happens to almost everybody who has taken off 20+ year old end links.. I skipped the heat and hammer method.. after My front right top one broke like Yours, I took My hammer and My dremel and tried to cut that B off.. An hour later, Nope. So I bought some cutting blades and an adapter for a drill, 4 broken blades later, finally angled my way down to break that Beeaaitch. The others came off ONLY by having a GOOD quality vice grips (Master Mechanic brand.. 30+ years old. Best EVER!), and getting these as tight as I could possibly squeeze between the ball of the link and the control arm, squeezing through the boot to get it out of the way. Then ratchet it until the grips stopped turning with it, propped against another control arm or something and, somehow the nuts turned loose.. You'll get it. Just cut that B!!!
Good luck!
Aloha 🤙🤙🤙🤙
 

·
Kaua‘i North Shore Boi.Aloha❤️🤙💪😊
Joined
·
154 Posts
As for the new parts, if You put vice grips on the end link nuts (leave the nut on to save the threads), can you move them at all? They should NOT move too easy, but our cars weight 2000+lbs so that'll free em up.. Are they not already facing the same direction as Your old ones? Hmmmmm.. My old ones moved like nothing was stopping them, and the new ones moved a little, with some force.. I hope everything works out. Aloha
 
  • Like
Reactions: bcgreen

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,632 Posts
For that I'd definitely use an angle grinder at the ball side of the rod to cut it off. Parts store end links, or if you have time, RockAuto / Amazon / other online retailer purchase would be a cheaper option than a parts store unit.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bcgreen

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I actually managed to get that end link off with a ratchet and a cheap pair of vise grips surprised they did the job.

Now that I'm this far in there's no way in hell I'm going to put it back together and take it down again at a later date. I'll be ordering lower control arms as well. How can I test whether or not I also need tie rods? Struts?

530200
530201
530202
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,632 Posts
Yeah, all those look shot.

For testing struts, are they leaking or have evidence of previous leaking (oil residue down the body of the shock)? If so, replace them. Do you know the mileage on them? If they are 65k+ you should replace them as they won't perform as well as they otherwise would even they're not leaking / haven't leaked. But that's up to you. For example, my current set of KYB GR2 have over 200k miles on them and I'm just now getting around to replacing them. They're not leaking or have ever leaked, but with 200k+ miles, it's just time to replace them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yeah, all those look shot.

For testing struts, are they leaking or have evidence of previous leaking (oil residue down the body of the shock)? If so, replace them. Do you know the mileage on them? If they are 65k+ you should replace them as they won't perform as well as they otherwise would even they're not leaking / haven't leaked. But that's up to you. For example, my current set of KYB GR2 have over 200k miles on them and I'm just now getting around to replacing them. They're not leaking or have ever leaked, but with 200k+ miles, it's just time to replace them.
They're probably the originals @225k. I haven't replaced them since I bought the car with 145k in 2015. I'm going to buy a complete set of KYB's that are on Amazon for $230 and rent a spring compressor from Autozone.

I can replace pretty much all of the rusted out suspension parts plus new struts for less than $500. Looking forward to getting this all finished probably going to be a couple of weeks.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,632 Posts
Be sure to do the lower ball joints while you have all of this out. OEM units can be had for ~$30 from Hondapartscheap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Be sure to do the lower ball joints while you have all of this out. OEM units can be had for ~$30 from Hondapartscheap.
So I realized that unlike the upper control arms, the lower control arms don't come with the ball joint pressed in. I will have to order that separately, which I did from Moog at $20 ea. So realistically do I even need to buy the lower control arms? Looks like there's a bushing that the strut wishbone is bolted through and maybe one more in the back where the control arm bolts to the frame.

Should I just buy the bushings separately and press those in with a rental ball joint press kit?
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top