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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have purchased 2014 Accord Sport few months ago and I am very happy with the car, just unhappy with the quality of the speakers it came with. I have lurked few audio threads here but I don't understand much because I don't have much knowledge about these things. I'm looking to get it professionally installed. I have a budget of anywhere from $500-$1000 including installation. I'm looking for quality sound, not just loud. A little bass would help as well.

What speakers do I buy for the doors?
What speakers do I buy for the back?
What amp do I need to buy that's compatible with these speakers?
I don't really want buy after market things to place the tweeters, can I live without them?
What sub can I purchase that won't take too much of the trunk space?
What steps do I take to keep the door from rattling with new speakers installed?
How much will all the parts cost me? And how much should I be looking to spend on installation?
Does speaker installation void my warranty?

Thanks in advance.
 

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CVT
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before everyone comes in and flames you for not using the search function, i'll help you since you're new here.

- 6.5 speakers for both front and back fit fine. most on DA went with the polk db6501 components up front. some say the rears do not need to be upgraded, but i'd go with the coaxial 6.5 speakers by polk just for the heck of it.
- amp is up to you. others can chime in on which amp is the best for your budget.
- yes you can buy coaxial speakers if you dont want to use tweeters, but you can add components by buying the sail panel from the EX model easily.
- some used the infinity baselink. or you can find a smaller sub to fit under the passenger seat
- dynamat/other sound deadening. again others can chime in here.
- cost depends on which speakers you buy, obviously.
- it shouldnt void warranty, as long as the speakers dont cause any problems.

im not very saavy when it comes to car audio, but this is the gist of what i've read regarding the audio upgrades for us sport owners. but for real, use the search function. theres at least 50 threads asking the same exact thing.
 

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Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks primetime.

So far this is what I've got:

Front speakers: Polk Db6501
Back speakers Polk DB 651(because they are cheaper).
Sub: Infinity Basslink. Or are there any better subs out there for the $200 price range?

Now all I need is an amp, correct?

Another question...just changing the front and back speakers without adding an amp and sub, would it have better quality sound than it does now? Do these speakers give off any kind of bass?
 

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CVT
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Thanks primetime.

So far this is what I've got:

Front speakers: Polk Db6501
Back speakers Polk DB 651(because they are cheaper).
Sub: Infinity Basslink. Or are there any better subs out there for the $200 price range?

Now all I need is an amp, correct?

Another question...just changing the front and back speakers without adding an amp and sub, would it have better quality sound than it does now? Do these speakers give off any kind of bass?
these aftermarket speakers will need to be amped for the best sound quality. without the amp the speakers will not have enough oomph down low to create any bass. it will sound too light/high and some stated that it actually sounds worse than stock if not amped.
 

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do not waste you money with aftermarket speakers unless u plan to install an amp at the same time.
OEM system will not be able to push new stuff with any force to justify them.
 

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Clutch
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If you go with this speaker setup, you can match them with a PA 660 (does the job and then some). Here is the kicker, buy a JL Audio clean sweep (improves sound and levels out the crazy factory settings). The components and coaxials will provide more bass than what the stock 8" sub might. If you are a bass head it will not be enough though.
 

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Ok, for a nice system, here goes... Polk 6.5 in the front and back. Components up front with aftermarket tweeter sails. Coax in the rear. If money is limited I would skip the rears. Put that money toward the sound deadening. Yes it is absolutely worth it. The components give you a very nice sound stage and the clarity is great. Buy a 4 channel amp that has speaker level inputs. This way you don't have to purchase a line out convertor. I however recommend an LOC. Specifically the Audio Control LC7I due to its bass restoration. An LOC turns your speaker wires into RCA cables. I used a 4 channel amp on mine, here's how. I used channel 1&2 fir the front speakers and I bridged channel 3&4 to power the sub. You need to make sure the amp is bridgeable. I will eventually drive the sub with a mono amp once I decide to spend the cash. With thus set up you could purchase the parts including wire and power cable without the LC7I for around $400. Now, on to the lows. If you don't want to be too bass heavy then use a sealed box. A ported box tends to be more boomy. I would stick with a single 12" in a sealed box. As far as brands go, well the crowd always has their own favorites. I love Alpine but don't have one. I did my system on the cheap. I bought a Sony 12" sub with a sealed box from amazon. I made sure the box had the right dimensions for the sub. It sounded really good but I wanted it to be more boomy so I put it in a ported box...again matched dimensions. That worked out great. The sub and box is around $150 for everything. My entire system is based on cheap but good quality. I know the audio hoods will flame me for using a sony because it only cost $75 but it works, will rattle the mirrors and my wife can hear me coming down the road. Lol. I recommend starting cheap with the sub because you may get the bug and want to go total custom. Here are some pics of mine.

Btw, the amp rack is custom made by me. Not too hard to make, just time consuming
 

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