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As a previous owner of a Lexus IS350 I am use to having a premium sound system with nice factory subs, the accord has a fantastic sound system that sounds super clear. The only problem I am having after tuning the audio settings, is that the car doesn't have much bass. How can I fix this without adding after market subs.
 

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Assuming you have a model that doesn't have a factory sub, you can't. The basic (non-touchscreen) head unit has a bass rolloff built into it. You'll need a DSP that has the ability to restore the bass (as much as is possible, at least).

The reason Honda does this is to protect the crap factory speakers from trying to play low notes they can't handle. So a DSP alone won't fix your problem - you'll also need upgraded speakers. But, really, no 6.5" speaker can produce great bass. Upgrading all four factory speakers to the best 6.5"'s in the world will probably still leave you wanting more bass.

So best to accept the fact that you're going to need to buy a DSP and a subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have the 2015 Accord Coupe V6 EXL without Navi so I have the standard camera monitor and a touchscreen control panel.
 

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The ideal method is to add an external subbox of some sort, whether an off the shelf part or have one custom made. If you refuse to do that (I can understand that you might need all the trunk space you have) and will accept something lesser (not necessarily cheaper) you can put a mono block amp on that sub output with an amp that has speaker-level inputs then route the output to the stock amp. I tried this before going to a subbox and it improved the stock subwoofer quite a bit. The issue here is that the stock amp is quite weak and doesn't provide the juice needed. Now of course, that stock subwoofer won't go down very low but if you're willing to settle, this might be the way to go. Suggest you go with a quality made amp such as Alpine (make sure it has auto-turn on with speaker power sensing) but go with something low powered as that stock sub cannot handle too much power. Most of these amps will be pretty small so you can tuck them away easily without it taking any space.
 

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The ideal method is to add an external subbox of some sort, whether an off the shelf part or have one custom made. If you refuse to do that (I can understand that you might need all the trunk space you have) and will accept something lesser (not necessarily cheaper) you can put a mono block amp on that sub output with an amp that has speaker-level inputs then route the output to the stock amp. I tried this before going to a subbox and it improved the stock subwoofer quite a bit. The issue here is that the stock amp is quite weak and doesn't provide the juice needed. Now of course, that stock subwoofer won't go down very low but if you're willing to settle, this might be the way to go. Suggest you go with a quality made amp such as Alpine (make sure it has auto-turn on with speaker power sensing) but go with something low powered as that stock sub cannot handle too much power. Most of these amps will be pretty small so you can tuck them away easily without it taking any space.
Looks like something like the small Alpine ktp-190u mono amp could power the factory sub. Just don't crank it up too much!
Alpine KTP-190U Power Pack Compact mono subwoofer amplifier ? 90 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm at Crutchfield.com
 

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@Slides

how do you know that?
It turns off DSP. Without it, majority of the sound will be coming from your speakers as it's no longer controlling for a better soundstage. DSP helps with the entire sound frequency and give more for the subwoofer to work with.

Just try it out yourself and see how much the subwoofer works with DSP off.
 

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Wow. That person at Honda has absolutely ZERO idea what they're talking about...

DSP flat makes the entire band...just that...flat. In this car it'll bring the sub 80hz up a tad, lower the 200-600hz range, bring up the mid midrange and sounds like it adds a hair to some areas in the tweeters range. It's definitely not a big increase, but it's there. It's the same thing that Audyssey has been using for years.

Audyssey vs. Audyssey Flat

DSP Flat DOES NOT turn the sub off. It's the exact opposite. It'll use more of the sub as it's now artificially boosted the lower end to make it flatter than it can achieve naturally. The sub is on in both modes
 

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Wow. That person at Honda has absolutely ZERO idea what they're talking about...

DSP flat makes the entire band...just that...flat. In this car it'll bring the sub 80hz up a tad, lower the 200-600hz range, bring up the mid midrange and sounds like it adds a hair to some areas in the tweeters range. It's definitely not a big increase, but it's there. It's the same thing that Audyssey has been using for years.

Audyssey vs. Audyssey Flat

DSP Flat DOES NOT turn the sub off. It's the exact opposite. It'll use more of the sub as it's now artificially boosted the lower end to make it flatter than it can achieve naturally. The sub is on in both modes
Source? From my observation it's pumping more of the bass through the speakers and very little through the subwoofer with this setting.
 

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Source? Me. My knowledge of audio and how things like this work for 15+ years lol

It's hard to say exactly what DSP flat is doing when engaged, but turning OFF the 'sub' is not one of the answers. I can tell you that without even going to listen, but a quick touch of the sub's cone from the underside confirms. 'FLAT' when in reference to anything audio-dsp related means that the highs are not rolled off at all or as quickly. It could possibly mean they did more than that by attempting to make the mid & low end 'flatter' too (hopefully by cutting, not boosting!).

The only way to say with 100% confidence where and how they're attaining what they call 'flat' is to put an RTA to it before and after this setting is applied with pink noise.
 
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