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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After more than a week of waiting, I finally took delivery on my new-to-me 2012 Accord EX-L V6 (without NAVI) today. My 16 month search for a car to replace my 2010 LX is (hopefully) now over. I knew from the beginning that a V6 was mandatory for whatever car I was going to get and this meets that criteria.

Super stoked to finally have it. It's super low mileage with only 23k and during my initial test drive it ran fantastic. I do have a week to return it, but hopefully that won't be necessary. I'll be taking it to my mechanic to have it thoroughly looked at very soon, so we'll see how that goes.

There are a couple things that need addressing and I was expecting that. The car only came with the gray valet key and no other keys, so I plan on getting at least one more key for it. I also didn't get a front license plate bracket, so that's on the list as well.

Car Wheel Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting


Sorry I couldn't get a better photo for you guys. I was kind of in a hurry today. But I plan on installing the VCMTuner II on Saturday, so I'll try to get some more photos then.
 

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The car only came with the gray valet key and no other keys, so I plan on getting at least one more key for it.Sorry I couldn't get a better photo for you guys. I was kind of in a hurry today.
Might as well get 2 to have a spare at home. I'm assuming you're getting keyless entry keys with immobilizer and such?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. Feels nice to be back in the 8th gen owners club again.

My mechanic (who I trust, I've known him for around 10 years now) did a full inspection on it. He told me that if he had to give it a letter grade, then on a scale where A+ would be a brand new car and an F would be a car that's complete junk, he'd give it an A-. I'm pretty happy with that. He told me there was a little bit of minor surface rust in the undercarriage, but nothing to really be concerned about.

The paintwork has seen better days. There are several spots where the clearcoat is in rough shape. But I'm not too concerned with the body appearance, just the structure. Remember, I drove my 2010 for 3-4 years with hail dents all over it. At the end of the day I bought this because it had a V6 and because of the low mileage.

The tires aren't exactly name brand (I believe he said they were Advanta, can't remember), but they have plenty of tread left so that's not something I'm worried about right now.

Overall, I think barring something catastrophic, I'll be keeping it.

Please tell me how in the world this 2012 has only 23k miles on it and do you know if it has any siblings? 😄
Haha, yeah. I can tell you the previous owner bought this car in Seattle and then moved to northern California. My only guess is this was their 3rd or 4th car and it hardly ever saw the road.

Look on AutoTempest. I've been checking AutoTempest pretty much every day for the last year with several filters applied and that's how I found this one.

Might as well get 2 to have a spare at home. I'm assuming you're getting keyless entry keys with immobilizer and such?
Yes, the plan is to get at least one master key with the fob and blade. That's somewhat of a requirement here in Texas. I don't want to go all the way out to the car and put the key in the door handle to roll down the windows (which you have to do in this heat) before I leave. I'd much rather be able to stay inside and do it from my fob.

I've thought about getting two, especially with the seat memory functions corresponding to the driver 1 and driver 2 fob. The complicated part is that I have no copies of the original master key, so whoever does it would have to figure out what is needed for that.

I called up a local dealership, told them my situation, and they quoted me about $230 for one cut and programmed key-fob combo. The dealer I bought it from said they'd order me a key for it so if that works out then I may consider making the investment to get the second one. But if I have to pay for both, I'll probably forget the second one and just get one. I don't need the dual automatic seat memory enough to justify it. And I can just use the valet as the de facto spare. My 2010 only came with a single master and one valet. I used just the valet for years after the shell for the master broke, so I'm used to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also, I was pleasantly surprised by how much room there is under the hood. I've seen how little space there is with the J35 in my Odyssey, so I figured smaller car = less space. But not at all. Seems like this will be relatively simple to work on with all the space.
 
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I don't want to go all the way out to the car and put the key in the door handle to roll down the windows (which you have to do in this heat) before I leave. I'd much rather be able to stay inside and do it from my fob.
I love that feature of the remote. With one long press, all of the windows and even the sunroof open up to vent that heat out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yep. I did figure out with my last Accord that the two glass panes on my front door appear to block the signal from the fob. When I have my fob pointed at the door, looking out the window to see the response from the car, I can't get a clean signal, but I get a clean signal through a regular window, even one that's further away. It's usually good enough for locking/unlocking since those are very brief signals, but if I try to roll the windows down from there, the windows tend to stop partway because they're not getting the signal anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I love the ease of maintenance on the 8th gen V6 Accord. For example, I can change the rear spark plugs easy peasy.
That's good. I bought several tools to help with the spark plugs on my last I4 Accord. Hopefully they can still be useful.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What about the timing belt?
I'm not going to worry about that for now. Maybe in a few years when this thing has some more miles on it.
 
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Of course, timing belts and water pumps can go, but my (albeit limited) experience has been that when someone’s engine grenades, it’s usually the tensioner that‘s gone bad (and usually after months of it making noise, and the person just turning up the stereo and ignoring it). Just my $0.02.

And by the way, @WiiMaster … NEEDZ MOAR PHOTOZ!!!
 

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What a find! I'm using that windows-down feature several times a day. 105 predicted all week for Dallas
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What a find! I'm using that windows-down feature several times a day. 105 predicted all week for Dallas
Yep. Super important here since this car is black inside and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Of course, timing belts and water pumps can go, but my (albeit limited) experience has been that when someone’s engine grenades, it’s usually the tensioner that‘s gone bad (and usually after months of it making noise, and the person just turning up the stereo and ignoring it). Just my $0.02.

And by the way, @WiiMaster … NEEDZ MOAR PHOTOZ!!!
Absolutely. I've seen it many times myself. But the tensioner appears to be okay for now (no strange noises). I definitely won't wait till 105k. Probably around 45-50k I'll consider getting it done assuming the tensioner lasts till then. If it doesn't, I'll get it done as soon as the tensioner starts showing signs.

I get my cars regularly serviced every 30k so I'm sure if it starts leaking then it will be noticed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have it pulled into the garage so here's a couple more for you guys. Hopefully more to come:
Vehicle registration plate Grille Car Automotive tire Hood


Car Land vehicle Vehicle Grille Tire
 

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Very nice score, barely any more mileage than my 2018. Almost new without excessive and expensive modern tech.
 

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I'm not going to worry about that for now. Maybe in a few years when this thing has some more miles on it.
Regarding the timing belt, age is also a concern, not just miles. It's been under tension for 10 years now. Not an immediate concern, but one that should be taken care of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Regarding the timing belt, age is also a concern, not just miles. It's been under tension for 10 years now. Not an immediate concern, but one that should be taken care of.
I get it. My Odyssey was in a similar boat a few years ago. That got replaced at 13 years and 90k. I do plan to take care of it eventually.

I do find it funny that when I brought up age with the timing belt interval in the past on this forum I was crucified for it and told to just follow the Maintenance Minder. Times change I suppose.
 
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