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Elvira
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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally needed to replace the original OEM (11/12 car build date) 24F (550CCA) battery because it wasn't holding the charge anymore as witnessed by the dash lights occasionally doing a "Merry Christmas" rendition of Silver Bells. Measured the battery with a DVM and voltage consistently dropped from 12.6V after charging down to 12.45V overnight, completely disconnected from the car. Uh oh! no bueno! There must be some high internal resistance there. But it still started the engine. Hmmm!

Went to Advanced Auto for a Gold Autocraft 24F-6 700CCA(not sure what the -6 means) with 130 minute RC (reserve capacity). Took it home and charged it for about 4 hours with a new 4-stage Battery Tender Plus. The battery's build date is 3/15. The battery measured 12.5 Volts from the store, so that meant approximately 80% charged. Two months at about 80% charge can't do too much harm.

Plopped it in the car last Saturday and WHAT A DIFFERENCE.

Smoother starts to begin with. My butt-o-meter also senses the shifting is smoother while driving. Even feels a slight bit more responsive. Take it for what it is but his kinda explains the extreme importance of a good battery these days.

Now, I tried a parasitic draw test to see what the draw was measuring and this is what I found.

Stopped engine, turned off the radio, lights, A/C controls, dome light, map light switches. Closed the door, but did not arm the alarm system or lock the doors.

Initially measured a 0.500 A (500 mA) draw for 2 minutes
dropped to 0.200 A (200 mA) draw for 1 minute
then dropped to .091 A (91 mA) for 20 minutes. Yes, 20 timed minutes.:yes:

Heard something clunk off under the hood and final sleep mode parasitic draw went all the way down too.......

Bada Boom Bada Bing

0.009 A (9 mA) WAY under the generic industry standard maximum of 30 mA.

So it seems that for at least 25 minutes after parking with no alarm set, like in your garage, it is at or above approximately 100 mA. Probably should have tried it with the alarm. That's for another day.

Hope this explains the parasitic draw steps on a V6 model for those interested and may explain why the OEM battery with 550CCA may be just enough.

I recommend getting the highest CCA and RC battery you can after the OEM warranty is out.
 

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Interesting Mike! I'm recently having issue with the battery not holding a charge as well! I normally drive the car every day so i never noticed any issue. Went on vacation for a week, came back to a completely dead battery. Charged it back up with battery charger and the car's alternator took care of the rest, no issue. A week later, didn't touch the car for 5 days, battery was almost dead again. Car was at 36,900 miles, just outside of 36K warranty period and the dealership refused to replace it. They said all dealership will NOT warranty battery if it's 1 mile above 36,000... Interesting!

In any case, took the battery to Advanced Auto Part for the load test. It tested out fine. i'm not aware of any parasitic draw that could completely drain a battery within 7 days. So it looks like the bean counters at Honda did a great job, timing the battery to start dying perfectly right outside of warranty window. I'm waiting for Walmart to stock their Everstart Maxx 24F-S again. They only have the 24F at the moment. The "S" denotes it's made for southern climate. The plates are thicker and be able to withstand more heat at the cost of less starting power.
 

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Elvira
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The standard load test with the carbon pile can be misleading. I've also seen a youtube where a tech (Kent Bergsma) used all the battery testers and all said OK EXCEPT the internal Resistance/Capacity tester.
What type of tester did Advanced use? Was it an old school load tester?

There is a "new" tool that will measure the internal resistance of the battery and basically give you a remaining CCA number. Basically if the battery gets sulfated, what little area that is still exposed will allow a "good" voltage but the current draw is VERY poor. So a 700CCA will measure 400CCA based on the internal resistance being high.

I wanted to do the draw test just to see IF there was any excessive draw causing the problem. When I did the OEM battery measurement and saw the reduction in voltage overnight, that pointed me in the right direction.

The more I read about the battery's importance the more I find I need to learn about the feed and care of this animal.


Interesting review of Harbor Freight meter https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNyiigm7x14
 

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Recently purchased the SOLAR BA9 Digital Battery and System Tester.
Does the same tests as the Harbor Freight, but for less money, $71.00 Amazon and its not HF.
 

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Elvira
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Discussion Starter #5
Recently purchased the SOLAR BA9 Digital Battery and System Tester.
Does the same tests as the Harbor Freight, but for less money, $71.00 Amazon and its not HF.
Some more evaluation on the horizon I guess. The HF tester was just the first one I saw.

Would you give your review of it?

Easy to program? Use? Read ? Your overall quality assessment of the build quality.

TIA
 

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Miker's post put a kick on my butt to get proactive and tested my battery last night. After 2 days of sitting in the garage, the voltage was 12.14 V.

Accord to this guide Diagnosing A Car Battery That Runs Down and this chart from it:

Battery Voltage and State of Charge:

12.66v . . . . . . . . . . 100%
12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75%
12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50%
12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25%
11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0%

It translates to my 3-year-old OEM battery having about... 35% after 2 days of sitting still :thumbsdow. I don't think it can survive the upcoming summer heat in the coming months. Might as well get a replacement now and save myself from dealing with a dead car and multiple trips back and forth.

I went to Autozone first because their Duralast Gold battery specifically states it has fewer and thicker plates, more suitable for southern climate. It has better warranty as well, 3 years + 2 years pro-rated. The manager was very nice but respectfully stated that he cannot match the Advanced Auto Parts discount. Too bad. Off to AAP.

AAP has their Autocraft Gold 24F for 131.99. After 35% off coupon, it comes out to be... 117 - $20 core = $97 out the door after tax and fees. Not bad at all! The manager said just bring the car in a day before 3 years warranty expire and if it dips below 12.50 V, I'll get a new battery no question asked. Given the average survival rate of all the batteries in my cars in Houston in the last 10 years, all of which died right around the 3 years mark, I just might get a free battery in a few years.

Car drives fine after the new battery is put in. I don't notice any extra power or any extra smoothness. I suspect that the reason Miker noticed the difference is because when changing the battery, the ECU is reset. I don't notice any difference because the battery died not a week ago so it's already reset twice :lmao:

What I would do differently next time? Honda OEM battery is a steaming pile of crap. Test your battery independently before the 36K, especially if you live in the warm states (talking to you, Floridians, Arizonians and Texans). Most likely the battery is already on its last leg. Bring your car to the dealership and get a new battery under warranty and buy yourself another 2-3 years before having to shell out for a another new battery.
 
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Elvira
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Discussion Starter #7
Miker's post put a kick on my butt to get proactive and tested my battery last night. After 2 days of sitting in the garage, the voltage was 12.14 V.


AAP has their Autocraft Gold 24F for 131.99. After 35% off coupon, it comes out to be... 117 - $20 core = $97 out the door after tax and fees. Not bad at all! The manager said just bring the car in a day before 3 years warranty expire and if it dips below 12.50 V, I'll get a new battery no question asked. Given the average survival rate of all the batteries in my cars in Houston in the last 10 years, all of which died right around the 3 years mark, I just might get a free battery in a few years.

Car drives fine after the new battery is put in. I don't notice any extra power or any extra smoothness. I suspect that the reason Miker noticed the difference is because when changing the battery, the ECU is reset. I don't notice any difference because the battery died not a week ago so it's already reset twice :lmao:

.
Could be the reason but I don't think so in this case since I have had the OEM battery out for cleaning and charging before, without the same butt meter results. It could be the placebo effect too.

Best I could do was 106.00 at Advanced Auto.

12.14V 's ? Yipes

As you have experienced, the heat is the killer and I never believed it until I realized that I was lucky enough to have all my cars and their batteries die in the summer, NOT the winter. Lucky in the sense I wasn't stranded in 2 feet of snow, 10°F, at night with no car or heat. Completely opposite from what I "learned" from the corner mechanic from back in the day.

Keep dry down there Ice !
 

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Keep dry down there Ice !
Thanks Miker!

This was downtown Houston a couple days ago. Notice the overpass in the back, it's 17 ft from the ground.





Another big storm is coming this weekend...

 

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Replaced the two plus year old OEM 24F with an Odyssey AGM a few months back after the battery went dead after car sat, undriven for about two and a half weeks. End of problem....as always.
 

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Elvira
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Discussion Starter #10
Battery Care Update

Old thread but appropriate.

So one week ago today I decided to check out the 2 year old battery following the winter driving season.

Popped the caps off the cells and checked the electrolyte level. One thing I didn't do was check voltage from cell to cell.

Battery voltage was 12.4 no load (cables off the posts.)

Cell one, furthest left, was low but the plates were still covered. Each of the other five cells were below the well minutely but all very similar in level.

Checked the SG (simple four ball eyedropper type) and each cell measured 3.5 floating balls except for cell one which had three floating and the last one at the bottom of the tube. Hmmmm! Makes sense since the acid % was higher with less water in that cell.

Charged the battery using the Battery Tender and all was good. Surface charge was 12.8v.

Filled the wells with De-ionized water so that each well had a meniscus right at the bottom of the well. Cell 1 took almost 30ml (1 oz.) Wow! The others a few drops each.

Charged the battery again and surface charge was 12.8V (no change really) Reconnected the cleaned cables onto the cleaned posts and turned on headlights. 12.6 VDC. SG had ALL four balls at the top including cell one. Moved the battery around a little to get the acid that is heavy and on the bottom of the battery to mix more toward the top of the battery. Rocked it back and forth to mix. Fixes the acid stratification problem.

So if you're still with me here's the point. Thank heavens I heard that :grin

We all know the critical part a good battery is in these cars. I have always had the battery drain to 12.4V almost immediately following a week of driving following a charge offline. It's not doing that anymore and the electronics have to be almost perfect now. The idle is now so smooth I almost can't tell its running. Shifts are smoother. Travel at speed is enjoyable with great response when stepping on the gas and it gets out of VCM mode.

SO what !

All I did was add 1 ounce of water to get an imbalanced battery back to level and it changed everything engine/trans performance related (the sensors had full voltage). Let me add that it wasn't a matter of just charging, or terminal cleaning since you can eat off this engine so there was no corrosion. Cables weren't loose either.

I believe the cell 1 low electrolyte level was caused by its proximity to the hot engine/ coolant hose next to it. No leaks found in the case and the cap looks like it is sealing well.

Check your electrolyte level in your battery and bring it to level before assuming the battery is bad, weak, etc. That one cell MAY have been the weak point making the other cells attempting to balance out the charge. I'm thinking maybe "draining" the whole battery reducing the voltage available for the sensors. The alternator may also be having trouble charging. Can't tell. The alternator is fine though and output is fine.

Anyway, there you go !!
 

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Did the new bigger battery fix your Christmas tree issue? I have same thing going on with my car.... aftermarket battery but same size as oem...I have eps, tpms, traction control and brake light on all the time......let me know thanks
 

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Elvira
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Discussion Starter #12
Did the new bigger battery fix your Christmas tree issue? I have same thing going on with my car.... aftermarket battery but same size as oem...I have eps, tpms, traction control and brake light on all the time......let me know thanks
PM'd answer but yes it did. Larger CCA allowed the time period between charging offline to increase. Didn't have to do it as often.
 

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Go Mountaineers !
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I've made a habit over the last 40 years that I automatically replace an OEM battery as they approach 3 years in service regardless of what any test reveals. I've gotten burned more than once by waiting a little too long. Just my two cents here.
 
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