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Discussion Starter #1
New Luk slave, new Exedy clutch master. The slave has the check valve delete mod and the clutch master cylinder is the kind for Civics (no triangle diaphragm). I use braided flexible line to connect them together.

Initially it was great but then the pedal became harder to press and get into gear, like before I replaced the parts. Twice I’ve adjusted the free play so that the slave could effectively “push” the clutch fork farther ...

I’m at the end of the free play. The instant the pedal moves the clutch master piston is moving. No slack whatsoever.

Usually if I “double clutch” in a parking lot I can cajole it, but sometimes I can’t get it into gear at all. Worse when fully warmed up, maybe.

I’ve never been able to detect any clutch slippage, but it’s hella hard to engage. 263,xxx miles ... maybe on the clutch also?


UPDATE

Came back from a long trip across town. It's all but underivable now. There's no way to put it any gear with the engine running. Once moving I can barely get it into additional gears.

I don't understand why adjusting the free play to get the clutch moving MORE results in LESS.
 

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Sounds like the clutch is Dragging (not disconnecting fully) which indicates one of the following
1 air in system
2 master insufficient travel or fluid
3 slave fails to move fork enough

1 Bleed again
2 check adjustment at the pedal. Should be no slop at all before the plunger moves. DONE
3 Have you had someone watch the clutch fork while you press the clutch? Does it move as far as it should? Does thefork start moving as soon as the clutch pedal moves?

Given you are subbing parts does the master you subbed move the same amount of fluid? If not then there will be less travel at the slave which would explain it.

If adjusting to reduce slack makes it worse then no harm adjusting it the other way. Never know.
 

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This might seem like a stupid question... but has the actual clutch ever been replaced?

I’m also curious what led you to swap those parts out...?
As the previous poster stated, it could be air in the system... was the master bench bled before it got installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
We bought the car with over 200,xxx miles on it a few years ago. I do NOT know if the clutch has been replaced; it's one thing I'm also wondering. Specifically, for a clutch that's worn but not not-enough-to-slip, do they become harder to use because of the self-adjustment nature of these setups? Is that a known characteristic?

I installed a new clutch master because the old one began to leak at that stupid diaphragm the originals have. The slave was replaced at the same time so that there would be no curiosities about it. Both appeared to be original.

I'll be able to take a look at big_eddy's suggestions hopefully soon.
 

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+2 on bleeding the system again, and again and again. I replaced both my master+slave a few weeks back, along with the flex line. I thought I had it perfect, but after a week or so I had to start double punching my cluch in the mornings after the car sitting overnight. Another round of bleedings and it seems to have gone back to normal.
 

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We bought the car with over 200,xxx miles on it a few years ago. I do NOT know if the clutch has been replaced; it's one thing I'm also wondering. Specifically, for a clutch that's worn but not not-enough-to-slip, do they become harder to use because of the self-adjustment nature of these setups? Is that a known characteristic?

I installed a new clutch master because the old one began to leak at that stupid diaphragm the originals have. The slave was replaced at the same time so that there would be no curiosities about it. Both appeared to be original.

I'll be able to take a look at big_eddy's suggestions hopefully soon.
It depends on what is going on with the clutch, if it is worn enough then yes, it can suddenly stop shifting. If the travel of the lever at the throwout bearing looks good when you press the pedal and holds that position when you hold the pedal down, then I would suspect the clutch. If the clutch disc is extremely worn or if a spring is damaged then it can cause what you are talking about. I saw that happen on an 08 Civic Si once. It wouldn't shift into gear from one moment to the next. Got the car towed, dropped the tranny, and one of the springs was busted and chewed up the flywheel. Clutches (more specifically the pressure plates) have a tendency to become stiffer over time.

If it were my car, I think I would drop the tranny to replace the clutch anyways.

If it was only one gear that was having a shifting problem, then I would suspect a sleeve or synchro.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Fluid was not low. Did a few more bleeding efforts tonight with a helper. It's impossible to see what comes out of the tube attached to the bleeder screw due to how cramped everything is under the hood, but at least it wouldn't have any more air in the line if it had any before.

It got late and I didn't try to see if it was any different with the engine running but the clutch feels the same: weird.

Does it move as far as it should? No prior experience here; don't know. I'd guess not? I took a video of the slave pushing against the fork and it only seems to move 1/2" to 3/4" tops. I have the old slave and will take a look how far that piston moves by hand.

Does the fork start moving as soon as the clutch pedal moves? Oh I'm sure it tries to. Again, zero slack now.

Given you are subbing parts does the master you subbed move the same amount of fluid? If not then there will be less travel at the slave which would explain it. Can't answer except to say it should work from research. Using a Civic clutch master was not my idea and haven't heard it not work.

My uneducated opinion is that something at the pressure plate has increased spring tension tremendously and sent pedal pressures sky high, wiping out my previous clutch master which sprung a leak and now may have damaged my new one internally.

I don't know the first thing about dropping the trans or even removing the half shafts. Guess I'll learn.
 

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Replacing the clutch is not as hard as it might seem. It’s just time consuming. Granted, it all depends on your knowledge, available tools, and how mechanically inclined you are.
 

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Forgive me for asking, but I do not know your experience level. Please describe exactly the bleeding process you followed. Your response above does not convince me that the system is bled. If you cannot see then you cannot know.

i hear the other posters but I would not go anywhere near the transmission or clutch until I ruled out the master and slave. Clutch master cylinders in these cars go. Poll the audience. Every car I know of with over 200km has had the master replaced at least once.

1/2” to 3/4” sounds about right for travel. Have someone sit in the car while you watch the slave and fork with a light. have the helper tell you as they depress the clutch just slightly. See how much pedal travel it takes before the slave / fork moves. Should be less than an inch pedal travel before you see first movement at the slave.

Anyone else have experience with these part subs? OEM master and slave are sized as a pair for correct effort, fluid volume and travel. Not a lot of wiggle room in the numbers so even a minor difference from OEM master diameter or stroke would result in insufficient travel of the clutch fork.
 

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+2 on bleeding the system again, and again and again. I replaced both my master+slave a few weeks back, along with the flex line. I thought I had it perfect, but after a week or so I had to start double punching my cluch in the mornings after the car sitting overnight. Another round of bleedings and it seems to have gone back to normal.
Guess I'm not the only one with the thought of replacing the hard clutch fluid line with flex lines :D I actually ruined the threads on the old one. It took a lot of bleeding with my new master and slave even with nice a bleeder setup to get the pedal feel right.
518487
 
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