[forgiven]

2008 EX-L v6 automatic. I will try to be exact on how the car was acting today. I started it up and put it into reverse, the car rolled forward. I couldn't get the car to move in reverse. Turned car off and restarted the car. Put into reverse and it moved backwards. Put into drive and the car barely moved forward. While moving forward, it violently felt like it was changing gears. This is the picture of the lights at this time:



What you cant tell in this pic is the "D" drive light was flashing.

So i go to my next stop, turn the car off. Come back and start the car and it moves backward as expected. Put it in drive and it barely moves with violent gear changing (i thought the transmission might fall out or do damage to the transmission). Now the dashboard lights are check engine light on, battery light on and no flashing "D" drive light. I go get the codes from the car and they are as follows:

P0456 (evap system very small leak detected)
P0796 (Clutch pressure control solenoid valve "C" stuck off)
As i stated earlier, this is an automatic not manual. Not sure if an automatic has a clutch or if the ECM is going bad?

So i leave the auto zone and the car returns to normal driving operations with just the check engine light on!?!??

So before today, my battery tested at 60% charged and needed to be replaced. I haven't replaced it as of today. Not sure if a battery would cause this problem or not. Any one have any idea of where i should go from here to find out the problem (besides the honda shop)?

 

[jlmejia316]

So before today, my battery tested at 60% charged and needed to be replaced. I haven't replaced it as of today. Not sure if a battery would cause this problem or not. Any one have any idea of where i should go from here to find out the problem (besides the honda shop)?[/QUOTE]

I would replace the battery if in fact it is testing bad after a good charge. A defective battery with low voltage can cause the ECM/PCM to "freak out". The computer modules in a vehicle typically need at least 11v to operate properly. I'd replace the battery first because its relatively cheap and it will save you a trip to the expensive dealer if it corrects your concern. Make sure the battery cables are also free of corrosion and tight at the starter, alternator and chassis ground.

Good Luck

 

[Miker]

forgiven


That flashing "D" means there is trouble in the transmission.

The Clutch Pressure Solenoid code IS possible with the automatic. There are clutch plates even in an automatic.

The reason the car wasn't "moving" because it was in limp home mode and only using 2d gear. Could be what you felt with the violent shifting since the ECU is expecting a different gear than what is engaged.

Take it to a transmission shop if after replacing the battery doesn't fix it.

As @jlmejia316 stated, the battery MAY be causing this since these cars nowadays are VERY dependent on full 12.8V and full current.

You might also want to check to make sure the trans oil level is at the correct level and /or not dirty, burnt (brown) or smells burnt.

Also look at the solenoid valve connector to check if it is simply loose.

 

[forgiven]

Replaced the battery today and so far, everything seems to be running OK. All lights are off. Thanks for your replies

 

[greg1c]

Do you know the history of transmission fluid changes? I would check the level and verify it is good and check the color and smell. If the car has over 100k and you do not know if the fluid has been changed you should go ahead and do a 3x change.

 

[forgiven]

Do you know the history of transmission fluid changes? I would check the level and verify it is good and check the color and smell. If the car has over 100k and you do not know if the fluid has been changed you should go ahead and do a 3x change.

I do not know the transmission history. However, when i bought the car 1.5 yrs ago, the transmission fluid had been changed (it was slightly red). I will check it today.

Update after a new battery was purchased: same issue happened today only weirder! Weirder in that the dashboard lights started flashing on and off and the needles (speed/gas etc) didn't work. Took it back to auto zone to see if it was giving any codes and if so were the codes today the same or different codes from yesterday. Turns out, it did not give any codes. So, i had him test the battery and found out it was completely drained. He charged the battery and then tested the alternator. Voltage regulator failed. So is this an alternator replacement or a voltage regulator replacement?

 

[mobiless2]

I do not know the transmission history. However, when i bought the car 1.5 yrs ago, the transmission fluid had been changed (it was slightly red). I will check it today.

Update after a new battery was purchased: same issue happened today only weirder! Weirder in that the dashboard lights started flashing on and off and the needles (speed/gas etc) didn't work. Took it back to auto zone to see if it was giving any codes and if so were the codes today the same or different codes from yesterday. Turns out, it did not give any codes. So, i had him test the battery and found out it was completely drained. He charged the battery and then tested the alternator. Voltage regulator failed. So is this an alternator replacement or a voltage regulator replacement?

The voltage regulator is inside of altenator.

 

[mw10coupe]

You should have around 14 volts at the battery with the car running. If you don't, the alternator isn't charging, and needs to be replaced.

 

[forgiven]

My local honda shop wants right at 1000.00 to replace the alternator! Looks like i will NOT be taking to the honda shop. I will either need to find a more reasonably priced mechanic or do it myself. So any recommendations as to which alternator to get? Are there any honda alternator specifics that i need to make sure the replacement non-honda alternator meets?

 

[Nickk]

My local honda shop wants right at 1000.00 to replace the alternator! Looks like i will NOT be taking to the honda shop. I will either need to find a more reasonably priced mechanic or do it myself. So any recommendations as to which alternator to get? Are there any honda alternator specifics that i need to make sure the replacement non-honda alternator meets?

Do it yourself! If you have some very basic knowledge of how to work on cars/ tighten and loosen bolts it'll be a piece of cake for you. I have the Service manual that shows how to do an alternator replacement, I can gladly hook you up with the manual.
For buying alternators: I'd go with a rebuilt (if they have one) or look it up online.

 

[forgiven]

So, when i called honda they said it was a 4-5 job to replace the alternator. As i was calling other mechanics to get a quote, they say it is a 1.2 hour job!! I got it done for less than 500.00! Regardless of who does it, all shops should be doing the same process, right? So, if the car needs to have the timing set after an alternator replacement, all shops should be doing this? I just want to make sure all that should be done is done regardless of who replaces the alternator

 

[slimm1469]

Typical dealer b.s.

I don't want to hijack the thread, but dealer service often is a crock. I watched a tech fix a rattle in the rear shelf, and timed him. It took him 40 minutes. The invoice said two hours. I'll spare y'all the rest... just assume the worst at a dealer.

 

[Miker]

I don't want to hijack the thread, but dealer service often is a crock. I watched a tech fix a rattle in the rear shelf, and timed him. It took him 40 minutes. The invoice said two hours. I'll spare y'all the rest... just assume the worst at a dealer.

You have to realize how they get paid. They time a normal job, say alternator replacement, and peg it at 2-3 hours of labor, let's say.

If the mechanic can perform the job in less time than the book, they get the 2-3 hours of labor.

Now here's my caveat if any mechanics want to set it straight. I have a cousin that used to perform all the little PITA jobs no one wanted and each one was booked at 1 hour. He performed the task in mere minutes (very experienced ASE). He would do all those 1 hour jobs in minutes but he said he got paid for the full hour. Sweet deal.

That's how it works so I've been told.

Ask the mechanics here how they get paid for finding rattles and noises!! Or for that matter for warranty work.

Ever since I learned the truth, now I understand the reluctance and "problem not found" results.

Prove me wrong, but that's how I understand the business.