[WiiMaster]

It's hard to say if you can take it on. It depends on your own skill level. I often say that if you've never done a timing belt job, even on a different vehicle/engine, this is not the one to be learning on.

You can expect a quote anywhere from $800-1200 depending on the parts used, labor rate, etc.

Only go with OEM parts or the Aisin kit. Don't settle for others like Gates, Continental, or anything.

 

[WiiMaster]

Thank you for the replies. I'm pretty capable as a shade tree mechanic as Ive worked on many vehicles over the decades, but never on this platform. As I did some youtube searches it apprears the engine in the 2010 crosstour is found in many vehicles, I'll need a heavy duty timing bolt socket to remove that one particular bolt and thag special tool to retorque it. But does one have to remove the crosstour's motor mount in order to replace the timing belt like in the Passports and Pilots?

All J series engines need the side motor mount to come out to replace the timing belt.

As long as you have experience you should be good. Just be careful and triple check your work when done, you don't want to get the timing off.

 

[WiiMaster]

Would this VCM delete version work on a 2010 Crosstour?

There are a lot of copycat products out there like that one. I would buy one of the originals, that way you're assured a quality product and good customer service if needed.

 

[WiiMaster]

Their other less expensive products require changing out resistors, depending on ambient temperature.

Technically there is no swapping with the VCMTuner. The VCMTuner has a dial to allow you to adjust the resistance. Zero swapping involved, just turning the dial.

Thank you for replying, I did see this on youtube however the version I saw had a spliced pigtail and one hotwire to the battery.. This one appears to have 3 wires along with the spliced pigtail. Do you happen to know where the two other wires get connected to?
Again thanks for the previous information.

The red wire connects to the battery terminal, one wire connects to the ECT1 sensor, the other connects to the stock ECT1 harness. You're effectively adding the tuner device in series with the ECT1 connection and running a power wire to the battery.