Drive Accord Honda Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Resident Critic
Joined
·
312 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
From the January 2008 Honda ServiceNews:

Some A/T repair procedures call for flushing the trans using Honda Genuine ATF-Z1 (and no substitutes). Problem is, where do you find the info to do that? It’s not listed in the S/Ms, and if you do an ISIS search, you’ll find a few ServiceNews articles on this subject, but they’re rather dated, and none of them say the same thing. Even the most recent one (see “Revised A/T Flushing Procedure” in the December ’00 issue) still mentions that old work horse—the PGM Tester—which we stopped supporting when the HDS first came on the scene.

NOTE: The term “flushing” refers to repeatedly draining and refilling the trans with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Don’t confuse it with aftermarket flush systems. American Honda still strongly recommends that you avoid using them on any Honda vehicle. The original procedure was written for simpler A/Ts that readily upshifted when you ran the vehicle on a lift. But A/Ts have come a long way since then, and most of the newer ones balk at shifting past 2nd gear when on a lift, unless you work the shift lever a certain way. In light of all this, we thought it was high time that the A/T flushing procedure got a facelift. So here’s the latest word on flushing that works for all A/Ts:

1. Set the parking brake, and raise the vehicle on a lift.
2. Drain the trans, and refill it with Honda Genuine ATF-Z1. Refer to the applicable S/M or to ISIS for details.
3. Start the engine, shift into Drive, and release the parking brake.
4. Push down on the accelerator pedal to raise the vehicle speed to 2,500 rpm.
• If the trans shifts past 2nd gear, go to step 5.
• If the trans won’t shift past 2nd gear, keep the engine speed at 2,500 rpm and shift from Drive to Neutral and back to Drive. Then go to step 5.
5. Make sure that the trans shifts through all the forward gears and goes into torque converter lockup.
6. Let off the accelerator pedal, and press the brake pedal to drop the vehicle speed to zero. Shift into
Reverse and then into Neutral.
7. Shift into Drive, and repeat steps 4 thru 6 four more times.
8. Set the parking brake, and repeat steps 2 thru 6 two more times.
9. Drain the trans, and reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
10. Refill the A/T with ATF-Z1.
Remember, performing a "flush" as outlined by the above procedure is not necessary if you are just performing scheduled maintenance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Where can you purchase the ATF Z1

Hi,

Great thread!
Was wondering if have to go to a HONDA Dealer to get this fluid?
Also, if you do not have a lift, would you see it being an issue to due the accerlation piece on the road or should the car be off of the ground?

Lastly, does the accord not need to do the 3 x 3 method?

Apologize for all of the ?'s just bought a 2005 ex 4cyl. Not familiar with it yet.

thx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
Holy thread revival Batman!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
and,

Holy Thread revival again,

Do the OP have any pictures of this process?

I'm looking at doing with his my 2008 I4 accord, and noted that the bottom engine cover needs to be removed. However, in the process of removing it, the plastics clips are very difficult to remove without breaking them off.....

any suggestions on how to remove these clips?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Clips removal

and,

Holy Thread revival again,

Do the OP have any pictures of this process?

I'm looking at doing with his my 2008 I4 accord, and noted that the bottom engine cover needs to be removed. However, in the process of removing it, the plastics clips are very difficult to remove without breaking them off.....

any suggestions on how to remove these clips?

Hunt4Steve,
Just did this over the weekend and broke two clips. Luckily I saw this coming and bought a few extra from the dealer at a cost of $2 a pop.

The clips have a set of paralell lines on them, so be sure to GENTLY use a flat head screwdriver on either of those sides....that is how they pop off. My car has 40K, so there was crud in there and it was not smooth. You'll be temped to work around in a circular motion, but that is what breaks them. Once the head is popped, light application of a set of pliars did it for me. I was told a quick shot of WD-40 would have helped, but didnt' do it myself. Be sure to rinse them out once they are out....makes going back in TOTALLY easier. There are 16 of them....be sure to pull only the ones you need and not the ones attached to the body panel.

I have a few clips left over, so PM me with an e-mail address if you want me to shoot you pictures of the part off the car...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Hunt4Steve,
.......
I have a few clips left over, so PM me with an e-mail address if you want me to shoot you pictures of the part off the car...

Thanks for the offer. Since I did this little job, I won't be pulling the Lower Engine cover off again. I notched a rectangle out of the bottom of the Engine Cover right where the Tranny bolt drain is located.

The next change will be super easy....:banana:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
166 Posts
I notched a rectangle out of the bottom of the Engine Cover right where the Tranny bolt drain is located.

The next change will be super easy....:banana:
I've had to remove that damn thing 4 different times in the last 120K miles to do this procedure... Every time I broke at least 2-4 clips...

That's the smartest thing I've read in a while...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I've had to remove that damn thing 4 different times in the last 120K miles to do this procedure... Every time I broke at least 2-4 clips...

That's the smartest thing I've read in a while...
Thanks,

I'll see about getting some pics to go with this little scenario.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Any way to get a pic of your notch out? Very curious to see how much you took out....considering doing it on my own.

Yes sir,

I'll be changing my Tranny and oil fluid this coming weekend. I'll get some good pics of the whole process and post em up.

Thanks for the reminder.

:thmsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Easy Transmission Oil change

So, I got around to changing my Transmission oil this afternoon.

The Transmission fluid costs about $8.50 a quart, and just to be safe, I always pick up 3 quarts. The manual calls for 2.6 quarts, and I find it takes about that much......

So, my first change was difficult due to having to remove the lower engine splash guard. During that event, I decided to notch a hole directly beneath the Transmission drain plug, so that I would not have to remove it again.

Here are some pictures of this Tranny change.....

Here is the initial notch, note how the rectangle size to allow for the oil to initially shoot out.


Here is a fuzzy picture of directly below the notch, sorry for the out of focus shot.....


Here is shot of the oil coming out. The initial spurt of oil shot out about 1/2 half of the notches length. so, in reality, I didn't have to notch it so far to the left......



In this shot, you can see the oil dribbling out of the oil hole. I ended up notching the hole just a bit more to the right with a utility-knife so the oil doesn't drip onto the splash guard when it drips out.


Overall, this is the way to go if you are going to perform your own maintenance. Its sooooo much easier and faster....

Hope this helps you all.... :banana:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
106 Posts
Very nice! Consider your idea offically "borrowed" for use in my own car. I'll probably do it at the same time I do the lower grille mesh to protect the A/C condenser. :thmsup:

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
So, I got around to changing my Transmission oil this afternoon.

The Transmission fluid costs about $8.50 a quart, and just to be safe, I always pick up 3 quarts. The manual calls for 2.6 quarts, and I find it takes about that much......

So, my first change was difficult due to having to remove the lower engine splash guard. During that event, I decided to notch a hole directly beneath the Transmission drain plug, so that I would not have to remove it again.

Here are some pictures of this Tranny change.....

Here is the initial notch, note how the rectangle size to allow for the oil to initially shoot out.


Here is a fuzzy picture of directly below the notch, sorry for the out of focus shot.....


Here is shot of the oil coming out. The initial spurt of oil shot out about 1/2 half of the notches length. so, in reality, I didn't have to notch it so far to the left......



In this shot, you can see the oil dribbling out of the oil hole. I ended up notching the hole just a bit more to the right with a utility-knife so the oil doesn't drip onto the splash guard when it drips out.


Overall, this is the way to go if you are going to perform your own maintenance. Its sooooo much easier and faster....

Hope this helps you all.... :banana:
For some reason, I'm unable to edit my own previous post, so I'll quote and update the links...
 

·
port & polish everything
Joined
·
1,562 Posts
someone else pointed out that the V6 lower bumper cover doesn't block transmission access, you can try swapping the i4 cover for the v6 also, for easier reach.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
I wonder why Honda doesn't like the aftermarket flush? This method is easy enough to do yourself but it doesn't get 100% of the fluid out. The good stuff gets mixed with the bad and gets diluted each time your replace 2.6quarts. Having said this, I'm still going to do it. It's better then nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
A short time ago my 07 Accord's (EX 2.4)) trans. started to act up. It was shifting poorly, and had a "slipping" feel that was beginning to happen quite frequently. I had prob. with the tranny on my 04 EX-l V6 and did not want to experience that again. So I simply drained, refilled and drove (going through all the gears) then repeated 3 times using Honda ATF. The difference in tranny performance was like night and day! It cost me about $90.00 in ATF, but is was money well spent. I did this at about 100,000 miles. The car ran flawlessly up to 207,000 miles right up until trading it in on a 2015 Sport. At times I question myself on why I traded that car. It was by far the most reliable car I have ever owned (and I have owned lots of cars)!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,096 Posts
I wonder why Honda doesn't like the aftermarket flush? This method is easy enough to do yourself but it doesn't get 100% of the fluid out. The good stuff gets mixed with the bad and gets diluted each time your replace 2.6quarts. Having said this, I'm still going to do it. It's better then nothing.
The flush knocks crud loose that you don't want knocked loose. The 3x3 drain and fills doesn't get all the fluid out, but replaces the majority of the fluid and that's good enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,742 Posts
The flush knocks crud loose that you don't want knocked loose. The 3x3 drain and fills doesn't get all the fluid out, but replaces the majority of the fluid and that's good enough.
I did my 3x D&F a few weeks ago and its still nice and red, so there is good amount of old that is removed in this process. Someone did the math on this forum for each D&F and I want to say that 80-90% is removed by the 3rd D&F? It might be in the fluid dynamics section.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top