[lkhonda125]

Bought my first car which is a used 2010 EXL V6 with 70K miles on it. It drove smooth and hasn't got significant rust. Under the hood was cleaned well. All fluids(except power steering fluid) are at mid levels. Dealer's inspection report said everything was fine, except for tire tread related imbalance and so, I decided to buy it given that the used car market is crazy hot.
Upon reading more about cars I found that I should have looked at previous service records. Unfortunately the car was bought by then and when I look at the Carfax it doesn't show much of a maintenance/service history. I feel sad that I didn't really vet the Carfax thoroughly and just relied on personal inspection of the car.
TL;DR of history:
5/2010 - pre-delivery inspection and bought
6/2010 - 26mi - Dealer service ( vehicle washed/detailed ) and sold ( perhaps just a post dated update )
6/2011 - 3.5K - Third party service ( oil and filter changed, oil pan drain plug replaced )
8/11/2012 - 8K - same Third party service ( oil and filter changed, oil pan drain plug replaced )
8/28/2012 - 8.15K - Mini dealer serviced (Maintenance inspection completed, Engine checked, washed/detailed)
8/29/2012 - 8.2K - offered for sale at BMW showroom ( i guess the user traded off the car
9/2012 - 8.3K - 2nd user bought
5/2015 - ?? - NO Name. Serviced.
10/2018 - 26.7K - Dealer service. Recommended maintenance, Wiper, Tire repair
11/2018 - 28.2K - Dealer service. Battery checked.
11/2019 - ?? - 3rd user bought.
2/2021 - 57K - Third party service. Engine/powertrain computer/module checked.
12/2021 - ?? - Vehicle available at dealer for sale. pre-owned inspection completed with oil and gasket changes.
1/8/2022 - 71K - I, 4th user, bought it.


I'm the 4th user and going by the record of Carfax the 1st owner didn't even go to Honda dealer once for service and rather visited some 3rd party. Around 8K miles the car had its Engine checked and got sold on the same day. (Not sure if the dealer was doing a routine check before purchasing. But who would sell a brand new car in 2 years??). 2nd owner did one Honda maintenance after 3 years(2015) and one more around 28K miles in 2018. 3rd user looked cheap and undisciplined who drove 30K more miles without any Service at the Honda dealer. Only record I see is during 2019, around 58K miles, a Service ("Engine/Powertrain computer/module checked") done via some third party and sold the car in 11/2021 at 70K miles.
I found that V6 has Timing Belt and it had to be replaced at the earliest of 8 yrs / 100K miles. Surely prev owner didn't do this i guess, going by carfax, unless Engine module check includes Timing belt replacement too.

I would appreciate if you folks can gimme some tips like if i should buy an extended warranty or head to a dealer for doing a checkup. Or, should i proactively ask for timing belt replacement? I looked at upcoming minder code and it was A12. Location is Pacific NW and the vehicle history has been in the same location.

 

[Ash051]

Some service facilities don't report to Carfax, so it's possible that more services were done, and just not reported. Previous owners also may have done some DIY services, which would also not show on the record.

Having a mechanic look over the car is a good idea with any new-to-you car purchase, but I don't think you necessarily need to purchase any extra warranties (unless it makes you more comfortable to do so).

I would do the timing belt and water pump for peace of mind. Most of us here on the forum recommend Aisin brand, and make sure it's obtained from a reputable source (as in, NOT eBay or Amazon).

 

[lkhonda125]

Some service facilities don't report to Carfax, so it's possible that more services were done, and just not reported. Previous owners also may have done some DIY services, which would also not show on the record.

Having a mechanic look over the car is a good idea with any new-to-you car purchase, but I don't think you necessarily need to purchase any extra warranties (unless it makes you more comfortable to do so).

I would do the timing belt and water pump for peace of mind. Most of us here on the forum recommend Aisin brand, and make sure it's obtained from a reputable source (as in, NOT eBay or Amazon).

Thanks Ash!
How do we figure out if the timing belt was replaced or not? Can we ask a mechanic to figure this out? Also, do the dealers allow us to bring self bought parts? Sorry, first time car owner Does, OreillyAuto works?

 

[DerekWildstar]

First of all, welcome aboard. As a new owner of an 8th gen Accord, I'd strongly suggest taking the time to read through this thread. It should answer a good number of questions, and will be a great resource for you in the future:

8th gen help for all new comers

After seeming to have to answer the same questions I figured I would start a little quick faq for everyone. It is in no way complete and will have to be updated in the usual manner. Thanks Brakes Rear Brakes or put on some good ceramics with new rotors Brakes eat themselves prematurely...

www.driveaccord.net

Next, there are a lot of threads in this forum that will speak to your exact questions, so I won't go too far into detail here - you'll gain a lot of great information by searching and reading. That said, if I was in your shoes, I'd make sure all the fluid was changed proactively, and I'd do the timing belt/water pump/tensioner service proactively as well. In such a case, assume nothing has been done to this car, and proceed accordingly.

Good luck!

 

[WiiMaster]

Aisin kit from RockAuto or CARiD for timing belt.

Look into disabling VCM:

VCM Megathread - what is VCM, does my Accord have it...

I know there's plenty of information out there already about VCM, but it's all quite dispersed and it hasn't really been put together until now. Although this is posted in the 2008-12 Accord forum, the information here will apply to Accords across multiple generations. If you have an Odyssey...

www.driveaccord.net

 

[Ash051]

How do we figure out if the timing belt was replaced or not? Can we ask a mechanic to figure this out? Also, do the dealers allow us to bring self bought parts?

I've heard that sometimes there's a sticker under the hood somewhere with the date and mileage of timing belt replacement, but this is far from a guarantee. Take a look, and if you can't find anything, play it safe and have it done. These are interference engines, meaning that if the belt snaps, it may lead to catastrophic engine damage.

I doubt a dealer will let you bring your own parts (I've never tried), but an independent shop might. Alternatively, if you have the job done at a dealer, they should be using a quality part as well. Just beware of dealership special pricing for the job if you go that route, because they might exclude parts of the service in order to advertise a lower price.

Also, +1 on replacing all fluids. If this is an automatic, I highly suggest using Honda's ATF (it's called DW-1).

 

[lkhonda125]

First of all, welcome aboard. As a new owner of an 8th gen Accord, I'd strongly suggest taking the time to read through this thread. It should answer a good number of questions, and will be a great resource for you in the future:

8th gen help for all new comers

After seeming to have to answer the same questions I figured I would start a little quick faq for everyone. It is in no way complete and will have to be updated in the usual manner. Thanks Brakes Rear Brakes or put on some good ceramics with new rotors Brakes eat themselves prematurely...

www.driveaccord.net

Next, there are a lot of threads in this forum that will speak to your exact questions, so I won't go too far into detail here - you'll gain a lot of great information by searching and reading. That said, if I was in your shoes, I'd make sure all the fluid was changed proactively, and I'd do the timing belt/water pump/tensioner service proactively as well. In such a case, assume nothing has been done to this car, and proceed accordingly.

Good luck!

Thanks Derek!
Was going through the link as I write this. Lucky to find this forum and thanks everyone for such warming response .
@WiiMaster @Ash051 @DerekWildstar i spoke to the honda dealer on phone and asked for the cost of replacing a timing belt. He said it would cost around $1515 and it would include timing belt, water pump, alternator, drive belts, tensioner (not sure if he mentioned this). I asked why would we need to replace an alternator and he said it's not needed but now that we are opening up, its good to replace one as the part is ~$100. Is this how this works? Does this cost sound genuine? Is there a way to reduce the costs? It was a phone quote, so do i need to get that in writing? Dealer allowed me to BYOP ( bring your own parts, i just coined it ) but also said that it would save me little amount but I would lose the 12 months / 12K miles work guarantee from Honda.
@Ash051 thanks for that "interference engine" key term, learnt quite a lot while reading. Been using public transport and Uber all my life and never had to worry about cars till now.
@WiiMaster thanks for the VCM post, read that and a great writeup. Need to figure out if there are some independent mechanics in my area ( Seattle ) who could do that.

 

[WiiMaster]

i spoke to the honda dealer on phone and asked for the cost of replacing a timing belt. He said it would cost around $1515 and it would include timing belt, water pump, alternator, drive belts, tensioner (not sure if he mentioned this). I asked why would we need to replace an alternator and he said it's not needed but now that we are opening up, its good to replace one as the part is ~$100. Is this how this works? Does this cost sound genuine? Is there a way to reduce the costs? It was a phone quote, so do i need to get that in writing? Dealer allowed me to BYOP ( bring your own parts, i just coined it ) but also said that it would save me little amount but I would lose the 12 months / 12K miles work guarantee from Honda.

Alternator replacement is not something typically done alongside the timing belt. Alternators are usually only done when they fail. Though it is worth checking if the spool valve that VCM uses is leaking, as it is located above the alternator and if it leaks it will leak right onto the alternator and kill it.

$1500 is about what I'd expect for a Honda dealer using OEM parts. But you could probably get that down to $1000 or less at a good independent shop with the Aisin kit. The Aisin kit itself is typically around $200 give or take, it's the labor that gets you.

@WiiMaster thanks for the VCM post, read that and a great writeup. Need to figure out if there are some independent mechanics in my area ( Seattle ) who could do that.

A lot of mechanics don't know about it and/or won't do it. But like the VCM thread mentions, it's quite simple for an inexperienced person to do. Depending on which device you get the time for an inexperienced user to install it ranges from 2-10 minutes. It's not very difficult and all the devices come with well-made instructions that have pictures and diagrams.

 

[a1smith]

It was a phone quote, so do i need to get that in writing?

Yes! Always.

 

[lkhonda125]

Aisin kit from RockAuto or CARiD for timing belt.

Look into disabling VCM:

VCM Megathread - what is VCM, does my Accord have it...

I know there's plenty of information out there already about VCM, but it's all quite dispersed and it hasn't really been put together until now. Although this is posted in the 2008-12 Accord forum, the information here will apply to Accords across multiple generations. If you have an Odyssey...

www.driveaccord.net

@WiiMaster is this is the product that is needed? AISIN® - Timing Belt Kit
Also, from the words of the service mechanic, from Honda dealer, these were the items he mentioned viz. timing belt, water pump, alternator, drive belts, tensioner (not sure if he mentioned this) . Now i'm not sure but apparently drive belts, tensioner are not part of the picture in the link. So, do i need to purchase them separately or just ask the mechanic to use Honda ones for the remaining parts? Sorry for asking more questions

 

[Ash051]

Frankly, I think that dealer is upselling you. As far as I'm aware, drive belts and alternator are not typically done with the timing belt job.

As for what IS done with the job... timing belt, water pump, and tensioner.

 

[DerekWildstar]

Thanks Derek!
Was going through the link as I write this. Lucky to find this forum and thanks everyone for such warming response .
@WiiMaster @Ash051 @DerekWildstar i spoke to the honda dealer on phone and asked for the cost of replacing a timing belt. He said it would cost around $1515 and it would include timing belt, water pump, alternator, drive belts, tensioner (not sure if he mentioned this). I asked why would we need to replace an alternator and he said it's not needed but now that we are opening up, its good to replace one as the part is ~$100. Is this how this works? Does this cost sound genuine? Is there a way to reduce the costs? It was a phone quote, so do i need to get that in writing? Dealer allowed me to BYOP ( bring your own parts, i just coined it ) but also said that it would save me little amount but I would lose the 12 months / 12K miles work guarantee from Honda.
@Ash051 thanks for that "interference engine" key term, learnt quite a lot while reading. Been using public transport and Uber all my life and never had to worry about cars till now.
@WiiMaster thanks for the VCM post, read that and a great writeup. Need to figure out if there are some independent mechanics in my area ( Seattle ) who could do that.

If you’re going to the dealer, I’d just use the OEM parts instead and buy them from the dealer. If you find a good independent mechanic, then I’d get the Aisin kit, as per several recommendations on here. If you get the Aisin kit, buy it from RockAuto, Carid (both of which Commander Data pointed out), or the Aisin store on Amazon (their specific store - stay away from anyone else). And no matter what you do, avoid eBay like the plague. The internet is swimming with counterfeit parts.

Change the alternator if it is going bad. Otherwise, I’d let it be. But no matter who does the work, I’d also ask them to give the car a thorough bow-to-stern inspection, and find everything and anything that could go wrong.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!

 

[2Accordz]

Go through the car, as has been suggested. Carfax is a guide, NOT a bible on what's been done to the vehicle...
Absolutely no need to change an alternator that's still in good shape and charging, that's pure horses---t.
Never get concerned with why people get out of cars after two years...because people trade out of cars in a few months...
I've seen it happen. Who knows why.

 

[slimm1469]

Welcome to DA lkHonda125! Ask all the questions you want! That's what we're all about. There's bound to be a good independent shop in Seattle that knows Japanese cars. Use Yelp for reviews, it's a great tool. I'd change all fluids, especially the automatic transmission fluid which many owners overlook. Check engine oil dipstick regularly, some 8th gen Accords consume oil. If you have the hood open, on the right of the engine is a dipstick for the transmission. If it's black, it's bad. Once you get all the initial work done, enjoy your ride! I've had mine for 10 years and it's been reliable and fun.

 

[WiiMaster]

@WiiMaster is this is the product that is needed? AISIN® - Timing Belt Kit
Also, from the words of the service mechanic, from Honda dealer, these were the items he mentioned viz. timing belt, water pump, alternator, drive belts, tensioner (not sure if he mentioned this) . Now i'm not sure but apparently drive belts, tensioner are not part of the picture in the link. So, do i need to purchase them separately or just ask the mechanic to use Honda ones for the remaining parts? Sorry for asking more questions

That is the Aisin kit, yes. If you can find it in stock on RockAuto it will be cheaper but it's frequently out of stock there.

Yes, the kit does not come with a drive belt or really anything that's part of the accessory system. The drive belt tensioner isn't necessarily something you replace at the same time, but the drive belt (aka serpentine belt) is. I would stick with an OEM drive belt, as aftermarket drive belts tend to be thinner than the OEM belt and can cause a noise on cold starts.

 

[KW2004Accord]

If the dealer is going to replace your alternator with a brand new OEM one for $100 I would jump on that. More likely the alternator may be non oem (bought somewhere else). Each dealer has the option to use other branded parts, that is why you don't assume, always ask what branded parts will be used. Find a good independent shop, someone that knows Hondas, such as a foreign auto repair shop & get a quote.

 

[20AccordEXL11]

Since this is your first car I'll offer this advice. What you want to do is set a baseline for the maintenance that you're going to be doing to this car while you own it.
Right now, you don't really 'know' what that is. To set the baseline you want to do as much basic maintenance as you can to get the car to an 'as new' condition as possible. This means replacing all the fluids (coolant, oil, brake, transmission) so YOU know when they were done, no guessing. Replacing the timing belt will get that 'unknown' out of the way too. Replacing the serpentine belt eliminates it as an 'unknown' as well.
Once you 'know' when all these things have been done, then you can settle into a pleasurable Honda ownership period of just allowing the MM to tell you when you need things done.
I hope you've got it budgeted to do some maintenance to this car. Putting new brake pads on it and tires would complete the picture. It might even get a new battery to really complete the 'as new' conditioning.
If you were to attack this car in this manner I think you could look forward to a lot of years of carefree driving.
Good luck and post some pictures of your car!

 

[lkhonda125]

Welcome to DA lkHonda125! Ask all the questions you want! That's what we're all about. There's bound to be a good independent shop in Seattle that knows Japanese cars. Use Yelp for reviews, it's a great tool. I'd change all fluids, especially the automatic transmission fluid which many owners overlook. Check engine oil dipstick regularly, some 8th gen Accords consume oil. If you have the hood open, on the right of the engine is a dipstick for the transmission. If it's black, it's bad. Once you get all the initial work done, enjoy your ride! I've had mine for 10 years and it's been reliable and fun.

thanks for the warm welcome. I looked at the ATF and it was below the lower mark ( lower hole on the stick ). Haven't been able to get any dealer appointment in my area until 2 weeks later. Scary to drive with that situation. Thinking if i should just top it off with 1-2 quart by myself, without draining the existing liquid. Do you think its a good idea?

Since this is your first car I'll offer this advice. What you want to do is set a baseline for the maintenance that you're going to be doing to this car while you own it.
Right now, you don't really 'know' what that is. To set the baseline you want to do as much basic maintenance as you can to get the car to an 'as new' condition as possible. This means replacing all the fluids (coolant, oil, brake, transmission) so YOU know when they were done, no guessing. Replacing the timing belt will get that 'unknown' out of the way too. Replacing the serpentine belt eliminates it as an 'unknown' as well.
Once you 'know' when all these things have been done, then you can settle into a pleasurable Honda ownership period of just allowing the MM to tell you when you need things done.
I hope you've got it budgeted to do some maintenance to this car. Putting new brake pads on it and tires would complete the picture. It might even get a new battery to really complete the 'as new' conditioning.
If you were to attack this car in this manner I think you could look forward to a lot of years of carefree driving.
Good luck and post some pictures of your car!

Thanks for the detailed advice and i completely agree on it. This is the first time ever my family had owned a car, TBH. Everyone around me advised me to buy a new car, but i wanted to spend less as its a depreciating asset. I'm happy to spend for maintenance. Currently only thing i'm trying to figure out is to how to get a quality service at a reasonable price. So, understanding what needs to be done and what the mechanics and dealers quote. I believe finding this nitty-gritties are one off and would save decent amount of money over time.
Is it okay to undergo fluids change at valvoline or goodyear ( as they might not use the recommended fluids), as i'm unable to get a dealer appointment in near time?

Thanks for the detailed advice and i completely agree on it. This is the first time ever my family had owned a car, TBH. Everyone around me advised me to buy a new car, but i wanted to spend less as its a depreciating asset. I'm happy to spend for maintenance. Currently only thing i'm trying to figure out is to how to get a quality service at a reasonable price. So, understanding what needs to be done and what the mechanics and dealers quote. I believe finding this nitty-gritties are one off and would save decent amount of money over time.
Is it okay to undergo fluids change at valvoline or goodyear ( as they might not use the recommended fluids), as i'm unable to get a dealer appointment in near time?

I will post some pictures soon

 

[KW2004Accord]

thanks for the warm welcome. I looked at the ATF and it was below the lower mark ( lower hole on the stick ). Haven't been able to get any dealer appointment in my area until 2 weeks later. Scary to drive with that situation. Thinking if i should just top it off with 1-2 quart by myself, without draining the existing liquid. Do you think its a good idea?

To check ATF - warm up fluid by driving several miles, park on a level surface & turn off car, you have 60 seconds to check the dipstick level. Wipe the dip stick on a white paper towel, note the color, any pink to reddish is generally OK, brown / black not good. If the level on the dipstick is low then add fluid as you are overheating the transmission. Buy a qt. from the dealer, if you go to a quick oil change place ask what fluid they use for a trans. d/f, usually it is a Dex 6 fluid which is compatible with DW-1 (which means it covers the spec.'s, some here use the Valvoline Max-life fluid bought @ Walmart). Make sure any trans. service is a drain/fill only NO flushes. IF YOU ARE LOW on fluid, immediately ADD fluid (you are burning up the tranny). Find a good independent shop if you want to save money (some will let you bring the ATF or oil / filter & only charge for labor).

 

[WiiMaster]

Thanks for the detailed advice and i completely agree on it. This is the first time ever my family had owned a car, TBH. Everyone around me advised me to buy a new car, but i wanted to spend less as its a depreciating asset. I'm happy to spend for maintenance. Currently only thing i'm trying to figure out is to how to get a quality service at a reasonable price. So, understanding what needs to be done and what the mechanics and dealers quote. I believe finding this nitty-gritties are one off and would save decent amount of money over time.
Is it okay to undergo fluids change at valvoline or goodyear ( as they might not use the recommended fluids), as i'm unable to get a dealer appointment in near time?

I would not go to a quick lube place like that. You also don't need to go to the dealership. Find a good independent shop in the area. They can take care of you.