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If the dealer is going to replace your alternator with a brand new OEM one for $100 I would jump on that. More likely the alternator may be non oem (bought somewhere else). Each dealer has the option to use other branded parts, that is why you don't assume, always ask what branded parts will be used. Find a good independent shop, someone that knows Hondas, such as a foreign auto repair shop & get a quote.
 

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thanks for the warm welcome. I looked at the ATF and it was below the lower mark ( lower hole on the stick ). Haven't been able to get any dealer appointment in my area until 2 weeks later. Scary to drive with that situation. Thinking if i should just top it off with 1-2 quart by myself, without draining the existing liquid. Do you think its a good idea?
To check ATF - warm up fluid by driving several miles, park on a level surface & turn off car, you have 60 seconds to check the dipstick level. Wipe the dip stick on a white paper towel, note the color, any pink to reddish is generally OK, brown / black not good. If the level on the dipstick is low then add fluid as you are overheating the transmission. Buy a qt. from the dealer, if you go to a quick oil change place ask what fluid they use for a trans. d/f, usually it is a Dex 6 fluid which is compatible with DW-1 (which means it covers the spec.'s, some here use the Valvoline Max-life fluid bought @ Walmart). Make sure any trans. service is a drain/fill only NO flushes. IF YOU ARE LOW on fluid, immediately ADD fluid (you are burning up the tranny). Find a good independent shop if you want to save money (some will let you bring the ATF or oil / filter & only charge for labor).
 

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Reasonable is an objective opinion. If living in a major metro area then yes, depending on the labor rate & if the shop goes by "book rate" or hourly rate for ea. job. I drive 25 min. to my mechanic which is outside my metro area. My friends won't do that so they end up paying much much more for the same services. You have to understand the mechanics logic, a simple trans. fluid d/f is easier to do on your car than an oil change but it costs more because it is transmission related. After having a fall out with my last mechanic (10 yrs. ago), it took me a couple months to find my present one. I probably went & talked to a dozen others. You could probably do the trans., PS, coolant yourself if just doing a d/f. Hondas use a certain type of PS & coolant fluids. My mechanic tried to get me on the "universal coolant" bandwagon.
 

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Some members here use ramps, others may use a mighty vac to suck out the fluids. A cheap turkey baster used to suck out the PS fluid. Talk to your friends, read reviews on Yelp, go & talk to the shops (if allowed in these times). I think you said you were in the Seattle area (?), so that makes things higher priced. There are "shade tree" mechanics & there are ASE certified mechanics. It is great when you find a shop that is owned by a ASE master tech mechanic with a lot of yrs. experience. I have two shops I use.
 

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Thanks. any suggestions other than Honda DW-1? Can't find that in any store near by. Local honda dealer ran out of it as well. Will try my luck in an other dealer 20 mi away, but really scared to drive with this low level ATF. So thinking just fill up with 1 Qt and later fill rest with the Honda one.
- any fluid you use look on the back of the bottle to see if it covers the DW-1 specification. - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Idemitsu...dIc0QeE8K&athancid=null&athposb=0&athena=true ( ATF Type H PLUS | Idemitsu Lubricants ).
 

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An Acura dealership will also carry DW-1. If you fill to the min. mark on the dipstick (lower hole) then you will still be a qt. low. What happens when mixing different brands of fluids is you change the viscosity & characteristics of the fluid. The Castrol transmax will give you firmer shifts as an example. 44,66,83,92% is what ea. drain / fill will give you for newer fluid, as the newer fluid in the pan will mix with the older degraded fluid locked up in the torque converter. So you are looking @ 4 changes that can get expensive if someone else is doing them - this thread - Transmission flush
 

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Amazon.com - NAPA may carry it also - Prestone makes a full syn. PSF for Asian cars (Walmart) - or you can just go oem unless it has a high dealer mark up.

until now i thought its just one drain and fill. The thread you linked mentions 4 times??? it costs $200 for 12 Qts of fluid alone. But the dealer quoted it for 170.. am i missing something? Ain't one drain/fill enough?
Your transmission has about 3 qts. in the pan which you can access, the other 4 plus qts, are locked up in the torque converter. When you drive & lock up the tq is when the fluids mix together (old & new). When changing trans. fluid think in terms of dilution & not quantity. The dealer will do 1 d/f unless there is a shifting problem. It will take a case or 12 qts. to get to 92% newer fluid, ea. d/f has a diminishing return, the first 3 are the greatest "bang for the buck". You can stretch them out (drain / fills), some members do a d/f @ ea. oil change for 3 or 4 times in a row. When you have done 4 d/f's & established a "base line", then you only have to do 1 every 30K miles. So learning to do it yourself can save you a lot of money.
 

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so my understanding is i have to do 4 d/f where each d/f needs 3 Qt. Is my understanding right? If i do one d/f now then when would i have to do the next 3 others, like any miles benchmark?
Add the trans. fluid to bring it up to the correct level. The newer fluid will start to clean the gunk out of the valve body. In a month or two do the first d/f, weather you go somewhere or do it yourself. Some people drive it around the block, others 20-100 miles or up to 5K between changes as it is really up to you. Your understanding is correct do 3 or 4 d/f's, check your user manual for the correct fill capacity.
 

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So I'm not OP, but I may have accidentally driven on green coolant for a year. Should I quickly change it next time I go out or would it be fine? It was just something I had on hand from other vehicles and did not know it would have an effect on engine health.
You can drive on any type (color) of coolant as long as you don't mix the chemistries. I drove for 3 years on orange GM Dexcool without a problem & used Toyota red (color) too. Older "green" type of fluid will eventually cause the seal on your water pump to leak. Some here use the "all makes all models" green coolant. I prefer the Zerex (Honda blue) coolant as it is a 5 yr. 150K mile. Peak, NAPA (rebranded Peak), Zerex Asian by Valvoline (blue), Penstion blue or OEM Honda coolants work well as they are all the same chemistry. So as long as you didn't mix colors so to speak.
 
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