Drive Accord Honda Forums banner
21 - 40 of 101 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I would not go to a quick lube place like that. You also don't need to go to the dealership. Find a good independent shop in the area. They can take care of you.
I called an independent mechanic to find out the prices for fluids and this is what i got. Could you please help me to know if these are reasonably expected?

I asked about if they are going to use the OEM fluids and they said its not OEM but same factory made, didn't give me the brand ( i think i can get that if i ask one more time, but before that want to know if the prices are okay )

ATF - 170( drain and fill ), 360 ( opening the pan, filter )
Power Steering - 140
Oil - 70
Coolant - 40
Differential - 140
Washer - FREE
Break - 200

Totals $760

@KW2004Accord
@slimm1469
@20AccordEXL11
Thanks for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,434 Posts
Reasonable is an objective opinion. If living in a major metro area then yes, depending on the labor rate & if the shop goes by "book rate" or hourly rate for ea. job. I drive 25 min. to my mechanic which is outside my metro area. My friends won't do that so they end up paying much much more for the same services. You have to understand the mechanics logic, a simple trans. fluid d/f is easier to do on your car than an oil change but it costs more because it is transmission related. After having a fall out with my last mechanic (10 yrs. ago), it took me a couple months to find my present one. I probably went & talked to a dozen others. You could probably do the trans., PS, coolant yourself if just doing a d/f. Hondas use a certain type of PS & coolant fluids. My mechanic tried to get me on the "universal coolant" bandwagon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Reasonable is an objective opinion. If living in a major metro area then yes, depending on the labor rate & if the shop goes by "book rate" or hourly rate for ea. job. I drive 25 min. to my mechanic which is outside my metro area. My friends won't do that so they end up paying much much more for the same services. You have to understand the mechanics logic, a simple trans. fluid d/f is easier to do on your car than an oil change but it costs more because it is transmission related. After having a fall out with my last mechanic (10 yrs. ago), it took me a couple months to find my present one. I probably went & talked to a dozen others. You could probably do the trans., PS, coolant yourself if just doing a d/f. Hondas use a certain type of PS & coolant fluids. My mechanic tried to get me on the "universal coolant" bandwagon.
I could do those fluids which do not require jacking up the car. Jacking up is a 1st time for me and i am yet to get tools and familiarity. Also, when someone says to find an independent mechanic what does that mean? I just picked some top google rated ones around my area. Looks like you do much more than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,434 Posts
Some members here use ramps, others may use a mighty vac to suck out the fluids. A cheap turkey baster used to suck out the PS fluid. Talk to your friends, read reviews on Yelp, go & talk to the shops (if allowed in these times). I think you said you were in the Seattle area (?), so that makes things higher priced. There are "shade tree" mechanics & there are ASE certified mechanics. It is great when you find a shop that is owned by a ASE master tech mechanic with a lot of yrs. experience. I have two shops I use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
351 Posts
In March 2021, I bought my daughter a used 2010 V6. Before I bought the car I paid for the Carfax and looked at Honda.com with the VIN and searched the previous maintenance history. The previous owner replaced the timing belt. I knew my daughter would go to college out of state in August. Before she drove away to college I did a bunch of maintenance on the car.

I changed the oil & filter, air filter, wiper blades, spark plugs, drivebelt, ATF, all 7 rear bulbs, cabin filter, radiator hoses, coolant, rotated the tires, changed the front and rear brake pads, and changed the oil again. I also flushed the power steering fluid and bled the brakes. All of these items are fairly easy for a home mechanic to replace. I have not seen the car in 6 months and am optimistic it will not need anything other than oil changes and tire rotations for a while. The Honda J35 engine is very reliable if maintained properly.
 

·
Registered
2012 Honda Accord (EX-L V6)
Joined
·
1,545 Posts
I called an independent mechanic to find out the prices for fluids and this is what i got. Could you please help me to know if these are reasonably expected?

I asked about if they are going to use the OEM fluids and they said its not OEM but same factory made, didn't give me the brand ( i think i can get that if i ask one more time, but before that want to know if the prices are okay )

ATF - 170( drain and fill ), 360 ( opening the pan, filter )
Power Steering - 140
Oil - 70
Coolant - 40
Differential - 140
Washer - FREE
Break - 200

Totals $760

@KW2004Accord
@slimm1469
@20AccordEXL11
Thanks for your help.
FWIW, I personally would recommend insisting on OEM for power steering fluid. For ATF, Idemitsu is the manufacturer of the OEM fluid, so either OEM or Idemitsu is what I would recommend.

For coolant, as long as it's a blue coolant and not the universal green coolant, any brand should do.

I hope this mechanic isn't telling you to pay for differential fluid. If they are, maybe find a different one. The Accord doesn't have a differential.

Washer fluid is probably something you could do yourself. It's pretty much just opening the hood, opening the cap, and topping it off.

Brake fluid cost seems a bit high. I had my brake system flushed and the cost of the flush and the fluid was around $105.

Opening the pan is not something you do on these transmissions. Just a simple drain and fill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I would not go to a quick lube place like that. You also don't need to go to the dealership. Find a good independent shop in the area. They can take care of you.
Got a Oreilly premium ATF as shown below. Is it okay to just fill this in to the transmission, without draining the existing one? Having a hard time to get an appointment any time this week. Also below are the pictures showing ATF level and Oil levels. Dashboard does not show any warning sign levels when i drive. But when i just turn the key on ( without engine on ) i see Low Oil Lam Pressure indicator present. Thanks for your help. Im learning a lot from you folks, so happy :)
Hood Plant Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper


Liquid Automotive tire Bottle Fluid Plastic bottle

Liquid Tire Bottle cap Automotive tire Fluid


Wheel Tire Automotive lighting Hood Bicycle tire


Car Speedometer Odometer Tachometer Vehicle


FWIW, I personally would recommend insisting on OEM for power steering fluid. For ATF, Idemitsu is the manufacturer of the OEM fluid, so either OEM or Idemitsu is what I would recommend.

For coolant, as long as it's a blue coolant and not the universal green coolant, any brand should do.

I hope this mechanic isn't telling you to pay for differential fluid. If they are, maybe find a different one. The Accord doesn't have a differential.

Washer fluid is probably something you could do yourself. It's pretty much just opening the hood, opening the cap, and topping it off.

Brake fluid cost seems a bit high. I had my brake system flushed and the cost of the flush and the fluid was around $105.

Opening the pan is not something you do on these transmissions. Just a simple drain and fill.
Thanks. I will keep the brand info in mind and insist on that. Oh interesting! I actually thought probably the owners manual doesn't mention the differential fluid. The mechanic didn't even mention the brake fluid, when i asked for a quote on all fluids. I thought he was just having hard time, given this is 10 yr old model, and was taking it easy as it was just a phone call. I will try to find another mechanic. I will fill the easy ones myself. Asked for a quote for all to just see how much mechanics actually charge for them.

Since this is your first car I'll offer this advice. What you want to do is set a baseline for the maintenance that you're going to be doing to this car while you own it.
Right now, you don't really 'know' what that is. To set the baseline you want to do as much basic maintenance as you can to get the car to an 'as new' condition as possible. This means replacing all the fluids (coolant, oil, brake, transmission) so YOU know when they were done, no guessing. Replacing the timing belt will get that 'unknown' out of the way too. Replacing the serpentine belt eliminates it as an 'unknown' as well.
Once you 'know' when all these things have been done, then you can settle into a pleasurable Honda ownership period of just allowing the MM to tell you when you need things done.
I hope you've got it budgeted to do some maintenance to this car. Putting new brake pads on it and tires would complete the picture. It might even get a new battery to really complete the 'as new' conditioning.
If you were to attack this car in this manner I think you could look forward to a lot of years of carefree driving.
Good luck and post some pictures of your car!
updated the main thread with pictures of the car :)
 

Attachments

·
Gearhead Girl 🤟
Joined
·
1,520 Posts
FWIW, I wouldn't use the O'Reilly ATF either.

ATF is cheap, a transmission repair is not. Splurge on a high quality ATF.

As for the oil lamp light, the dashboard lights are only a concern if they remain on when the engine is turned on. If you have the key in ignition positions that are not the full engine start position, then the dashboard lights will illuminate, that's normal.

Edit: judging by the color, your ATF looks on the newer side, so I think it should be okay to top off the transmission fluid. For how low your ATF is on the dipstick, you should probably do that right away, as driving on low ATF can damage the transmission.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Nice looking car BUT it looks like you are 2 qts. low on the trans. fluid.
Thanks, will get 2 qts.

FWIW, I wouldn't use the O'Reilly ATF either.

ATF is cheap, a transmission repair is not. Splurge on a high quality ATF.

As for the oil lamp light, the dashboard lights are only a concern if they remain on when the engine is turned on. If you have the key in ignition positions that are not the full engine start position, then the dashboard lights will illuminate, that's normal.

Edit: judging by the color, your ATF looks on the newer side, so I think it should be okay to top off the transmission fluid. For how low your ATF is on the dipstick, you should probably do that right away, as driving on low ATF can damage the transmission.
Thanks. any suggestions other than Honda DW-1? Can't find that in any store near by. Local honda dealer ran out of it as well. Will try my luck in an other dealer 20 mi away, but really scared to drive with this low level ATF. So thinking just fill up with 1 Qt and later fill rest with the Honda one.

In March 2021, I bought my daughter a used 2010 V6. Before I bought the car I paid for the Carfax and looked at Honda.com with the VIN and searched the previous maintenance history. The previous owner replaced the timing belt. I knew my daughter would go to college out of state in August. Before she drove away to college I did a bunch of maintenance on the car.

I changed the oil & filter, air filter, wiper blades, spark plugs, drivebelt, ATF, all 7 rear bulbs, cabin filter, radiator hoses, coolant, rotated the tires, changed the front and rear brake pads, and changed the oil again. I also flushed the power steering fluid and bled the brakes. All of these items are fairly easy for a home mechanic to replace. I have not seen the car in 6 months and am optimistic it will not need anything other than oil changes and tire rotations for a while. The Honda J35 engine is very reliable if maintained properly.

Wow you took care of your daughter well. Nice of you!
Where did you find maintenance history on honda.com ? I tried searching on their website after you mentioned, but all that i could do is register my VIN with them.
 

·
Registered
2012 Honda Accord (EX-L V6)
Joined
·
1,545 Posts
I would not use anything in a Honda AT other than DW-1 or Idemitsu Type-H (I believe that's what it's called, I could be wrong. It's Idemitsu's name for the DW-1 they make for Honda).

In a pinch, users have reported good results with Valvoline MaxLife. Just not something I would recommend, I like to stick with the Honda stuff for ATF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,434 Posts
Thanks. any suggestions other than Honda DW-1? Can't find that in any store near by. Local honda dealer ran out of it as well. Will try my luck in an other dealer 20 mi away, but really scared to drive with this low level ATF. So thinking just fill up with 1 Qt and later fill rest with the Honda one.
- any fluid you use look on the back of the bottle to see if it covers the DW-1 specification. - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Idemitsu...dIc0QeE8K&athancid=null&athposb=0&athena=true ( ATF Type H PLUS | Idemitsu Lubricants ).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Is it okay to undergo fluids change at Valvoline or goodyear ( as they might not use the recommended fluids), as i'm unable to get a dealer appointment in near time?
As you can see, you are being inandated with advice. I hope it's not spinning your head around. If you don't have your own mechanic and are not a DIY'er, the oil change places you mentioned will at least get your fluids where they need to be. They'd be a better choice than the sketchier quick-change places.

One note: You mentioned that one of the owners didn't do anything for 30K, describing them as undisciplined. You have to remember that many of us do the maintenance ourselves. Oil changes, ATF changes, spark plugs, brakes, etc. It's cheaper and gives us a chance to look for other issues ourselves. And of course DIY service won't show up on vehicle service reports.

Either way, the car looks good and has below-average mileage with no vehicle accidents. Those are big wins for you. Plus it's a Honda, so even better. Have fun!
 

·
Gearhead Girl 🤟
Joined
·
1,520 Posts
Thanks. any suggestions other than Honda DW-1? Can't find that in any store near by. Local honda dealer ran out of it as well. Will try my luck in an other dealer 20 mi away, but really scared to drive with this low level ATF. So thinking just fill up with 1 Qt and later fill rest with the Honda one.
+1 for Valvoline MaxLife. As big as I am on staying OEM, ensuring that the transmission has sufficient fluid is more important.

It's probably not the best idea to go mixing ATF, so what I would do would be to drain what's left in the transmission, and fill to the minimum line with the MaxLife. When DW-1 is available again, drain the MaxLife and refill with DW-1.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,434 Posts
An Acura dealership will also carry DW-1. If you fill to the min. mark on the dipstick (lower hole) then you will still be a qt. low. What happens when mixing different brands of fluids is you change the viscosity & characteristics of the fluid. The Castrol transmax will give you firmer shifts as an example. 44,66,83,92% is what ea. drain / fill will give you for newer fluid, as the newer fluid in the pan will mix with the older degraded fluid locked up in the torque converter. So you are looking @ 4 changes that can get expensive if someone else is doing them - this thread - Transmission flush
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,501 Posts
Those two items, tranny fluid and PS fluid are high..
You can do the PS fluid yourself, get a turkey baster at the grocery store and remove the fluid, pour in new(Honda PS fluid only) run the engine while turning the steering "lock to lock", both sides, shut it off, repeat this 3 to 4 times..you may have to buy 2 pints total.
Transmission fluid will take you a while to do a 3X drain and refill, but you'll only pay for 12 qts of fluid, not the big labor charges he showed you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
As you can see, you are being inandated with advice. I hope it's not spinning your head around. If you don't have your own mechanic and are not a DIY'er, the oil change places you mentioned will at least get your fluids where they need to be. They'd be a better choice than the sketchier quick-change places.

One note: You mentioned that one of the owners didn't do anything for 30K, describing them as undisciplined. You have to remember that many of us do the maintenance ourselves. Oil changes, ATF changes, spark plugs, brakes, etc. It's cheaper and gives us a chance to look for other issues ourselves. And of course DIY service won't show up on vehicle service reports.

Either way, the car looks good and has below-average mileage with no vehicle accidents. Those are big wins for you. Plus it's a Honda, so even better. Have fun!
Thanks, that makes sense. Yea, possible that carfax reporting didn't happen or the owner might have performed DIY. Wasn't aware of such things before. But given that the last service was at some random mechanic, its more probable that the owner might be indifferent. But anyways as you said the pros were obvious and hence i made a decision to buy in an hour.

+1 for Valvoline MaxLife. As big as I am on staying OEM, ensuring that the transmission has sufficient fluid is more important.

It's probably not the best idea to go mixing ATF, so what I would do would be to drain what's left in the transmission, and fill to the minimum line with the MaxLife. When DW-1 is available again, drain the MaxLife and refill with DW-1.
Thanks. I thought i can just refill without draining, at least 1-2 quart temporarily.

An Acura dealership will also carry DW-1. If you fill to the min. mark on the dipstick (lower hole) then you will still be a qt. low. What happens when mixing different brands of fluids is you change the viscosity & characteristics of the fluid. The Castrol transmax will give you firmer shifts as an example. 44,66,83,92% is what ea. drain / fill will give you for newer fluid, as the newer fluid in the pan will mix with the older degraded fluid locked up in the torque converter. So you are looking @ 4 changes that can get expensive if someone else is doing them - this thread - Transmission flush
until now i thought its just one drain and fill. The thread you linked mentions 4 times??? it costs $200 for 12 Qts of fluid alone. But the dealer quoted it for 170.. am i missing something? Ain't one drain/fill enough?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,434 Posts
Amazon.com - NAPA may carry it also - Prestone makes a full syn. PSF for Asian cars (Walmart) - or you can just go oem unless it has a high dealer mark up.

until now i thought its just one drain and fill. The thread you linked mentions 4 times??? it costs $200 for 12 Qts of fluid alone. But the dealer quoted it for 170.. am i missing something? Ain't one drain/fill enough?
Your transmission has about 3 qts. in the pan which you can access, the other 4 plus qts, are locked up in the torque converter. When you drive & lock up the tq is when the fluids mix together (old & new). When changing trans. fluid think in terms of dilution & not quantity. The dealer will do 1 d/f unless there is a shifting problem. It will take a case or 12 qts. to get to 92% newer fluid, ea. d/f has a diminishing return, the first 3 are the greatest "bang for the buck". You can stretch them out (drain / fills), some members do a d/f @ ea. oil change for 3 or 4 times in a row. When you have done 4 d/f's & established a "base line", then you only have to do 1 every 30K miles. So learning to do it yourself can save you a lot of money.
 
21 - 40 of 101 Posts
Top