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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Continuing My Previous Post asking about the VVT Solenoid Gaskets, I Obviously had to buy a set on ebay. Installed it tonight, the top piece of the lower gasket didnt fit perfect until i put it in where it holds it aligned, i doubt thats normal but i had no choice at that point, the Original one was definitely old and flatter and really stuck in there, and that lower one had snapped when removing it. Got everything done and Put back together, and very very slowly i would see a drip of oil just below the dipstick, so it was leaking. looked up torque specs to be about 8-9 ftlb, And realized that the bolts felt fairly loose, especially compared to how tight it was when breaking the bolts free. so i started to tighten, and after like 4 turns one bolt snapped. the entire time i turned it never felt like it was getting any tighter. I just re-disassembled it, the other two bolts are stretched and would have snapped too. I tried to get out the broken bolt piece, but its only got like 2mm sticking up and its not flat, so i cant get a grip with pliers. i guess in a way im lucky enough that it seems to be stuck in a Lower rocker arm Oil pressure switch, and not something major, But now i have to replace this rocker arm Oil pressure switch. i took out the two visible bolts and it won't come off. looking up a picture of it, it seems like there is another small bolt under the valve cover? so now im looking at removing the intake so i can remove the valve cover just so i can get this rocker arm switch off? And then i would have to purchase a GATES VVS320 Which Comes with the entire solenoid and rocker arm all in one that could be bolted on and done with. Is this what i need to do? or is there another way to this? My crosstour has no plates because the DMV takes forever to send a state transfer title, so i have to get this one fixed reasonably quickly. Ebay Has the GATES VVS320 Shipped from my state for like $20 more than rock auto, so hopefully id have it the day after its shipped. Opening up the valve cover also means i need a new valve cover gasket (which was just replaced a year ago for $200) Right?
Obviously now i couldnt even drive it to my mechanic if i wanted to, so thats not an option. i don't have money to be towing it places let alone to pay for labor to have it fixed. Sorry this post is so long, But i need to know everything about what i now have to do before i attempt it and something else goes wrong.
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Replacing the lower half of the spool valve is not that simple. Not only do you have to remove the valve cover, but you have to remove all the rocker arms as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Replacing the lower half of the spool valve is not that simple. Not only do you have to remove the valve cover, but you have to remove all the rocker arms as well.
Sounds like I'm going to have to try to drill that bolt with a very thin bolt removal tool
 

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You most likely will need to use a bolt/screw extractor. Here is an example:


That kit comes with the proper size drill bits for the extractors. You need to make sure the extractor is the right size for the bolt you're extracting.

You need to make REALLY sure you don't let any drill shavings, etc fall into the open ports. Maybe the best way to prevent that is to reinstall the cover and drill the hole for the extractor with the cover in place. Then you can use a shop vac, etc to totally clean the area before removing the cover. Or just leave the cover on and use the screw extractor with the cover in place.

One "mystery" is that you say the bolt was turning and didn't feel like it was getting tighter. That usually means you stripped out the aluminum threads in the bolt hole, but if stripped I don't know how you snapped the bolt. If it is stripped, you'll have to fix those threads with a heli-coil. Hopefully, you haven't done that because then it is even more work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You most likely will need to use a bolt/screw extractor. Here is an example:


That kit comes with the proper size drill bits for the extractors. You need to make sure the extractor is the right size for the bolt you're extracting.

You need to make REALLY sure you don't let any drill shavings, etc fall into the open ports. Maybe the best way to prevent that is to reinstall the cover and drill the hole for the extractor with the cover in place. Then you can use a shop vac, etc to totally clean the area before removing the cover. Or just leave the cover on and use the screw extractor with the cover in place.

One "mystery" is that you say the bolt was turning and didn't feel like it was getting tighter. That usually means you stripped out the aluminum threads in the bolt hole, but if stripped I don't know how you snapped the bolt. If it is stripped, you'll have to fix those threads with a heli-coil. Hopefully, you haven't done that because then it is even more work.
I managed to get it out. I bought a bolt extractor set that I remembered I already had 4 of, and I didn't even need it because the bolt was loose and it fell out when I started drilling. The threads are fine, the bolts just stretched out and one snapped.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice pictures. Classic examples of necking due to tensile overload. The bolts were torqued way beyond their limit.
When tightening they never got near close to how tight it was when removing them, and they never hit a point of feeling tight, they just kept turning. I don't have a torque wrench that goes down to 3ftlb to do an accurate small measurement, but I need to do something for when I put on the new one
 

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When tightening they never got near close to how tight it was when removing them, and they never hit a point of feeling tight, they just kept turning. I don't have a torque wrench that goes down to 3ftlb to do an accurate small measurement, but I need to do something for when I put on the new one
You can use a fish scale (or something similar) 1 foot away from the bolt centerline and pull perpendicular to the wrench (and the bolt) until you see 3 pounds on the scale. Scale accordingly if you can't get 1 foot away - e.g. if 6 inches away go to 6 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You can use a fish scale (or something similar) 1 foot away from the bolt centerline and pull perpendicular to the wrench (and the bolt) until you see 3 pounds on the scale. Scale accordingly if you can't get 1 foot away - e.g. if 6 inches away go to 6 pounds.
So it's supposed to be at 3ftlb? I saw people saying 8-10 ft lb. The AC Delco digital torque wrench that does 3 ftlb is $100, so I can't get that at this moment.
 

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The "official" torque spec may be hard to find . . . since the gaskets are technically not a serviceable item I doubt the service manual discusses R&R of that part.

You can use generic fastener torque tables - just lookup the proper grade bolt being threaded into aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't know the torque spec. I was going by what you said in your post - you mentioned 3 ft-lbs.
I said that because that's the lowest I saw any torque meter go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The "official" torque spec may be hard to find . . . since the gaskets are technically not a serviceable item I doubt the service manual discusses R&R of that part.

You can use generic fastener torque tables - just lookup the proper grade bolt being threaded into aluminum.
Well they are 10mm bolts, looking up 10mm bolt it said for 6mm thread use 20nm which is like 14.5 ftlb, I had a torque wrench on 10ft lb and they got no where near 10 before stretching and snapping. So I have no clue how to determine when it's tight aside from turning and seeing. Maybe the bolts were just weak, who knows.
 

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When you say 10mm bolt do you mean you used a 10mm wrench on the bolt head or that it was M10 threads? The torque spec is going to go by the thread size and pitch, not the socket/wrench size.

You also need to know the grade of the bolt. My guess is that it is a standard 5.8 (or lower) grade metric bolt. Higher strength bolts like grade 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9 are going to have higher torque specs.
 

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The torque spec according to the TSB is 6 foot pounds.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When you say 10mm bolt do you mean you used a 10mm wrench on the bolt head or that it was M10 threads? The torque spec is going to go by the thread size and pitch, not the socket/wrench size.

You also need to know the grade of the bolt. My guess is that it is a standard 5.8 (or lower) grade metric bolt. Higher strength bolts like grade 8.8, 10.9, and 12.9 are going to have higher torque specs.
I used a 10mm socket. I would have to re measure, I think the threads were about 4mm thick.
 

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Alright, thanks. I have literally zero way to measure that.
Get a deflecting beam torque wrench. They work great for low torques and are a lot cheaper than the digital torque wrench you mentioned.

Or the MacGyver torque wrench I mentioned above with the fish scale costs even less if you have a scale already. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Get a deflecting beam torque wrench. They work great for low torques and are a lot cheaper than the digital torque wrench you mentioned.

Or the MacGyver torque wrench I mentioned above with the fish scale costs even less if you have a scale already. :D
Does this look good? It could come tomorrow along with the part so I can install it. It's not easy to be that precise on it, 6ftlb is 72 inlb so I'd have to just look at the 75 inlb line

ARES 70214-3/8-inch Drive Beam Torque Wrench - 0-800 Inch/Pounds and 0-90 Newton/Meter Torque Wrench - High Visibility Markings for Easy Readings Amazon.com




Oh this one's extra precise

Neiko 03727A 1/4-Inch-Drive Beam Torque Wrench, SAE and MM Bicycle and Automotive Wrench, Reads in 0鈥80 Inches/Pounds and 0鈥9 Newton/Meter Increments Amazon.com
 
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