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Discussion Starter #21
In my opinion I don't think their is any need for it to be that scientific, or to be adjusting our times.

For myself, and likely the majority of owners, they care about what they see in front of them, not something that an online calculator tells them.

If i personally went to the drag strip and ran a 13.7, i would be telling everyone i ran a 13.7, because i did. I wouldnt be telling people I ran a 14.0 after the online tool correction.

In a similar sense, you can correct his car to a 100+ MPH trap speed, but he hasn't actually done that yet.

That would be similar to putting your car on a Dyno, having it pull 230 WHP, but then going out and telling everyone the car made 250 WHP because it was a hot day when you dyno'd it, it really didnt.

Does this make sense?

Everyone lives in their own micro environment, your circle of friends likely goes to the same track as you, and the same dyno as you. So the results that happen in your own environment with your own locale and friends are really the truth in your world, not an adjusted value.
I agree. I won't be correcting anything as it's just another element of bench racing. I'm posting what my car ran on a particular day with fuel purchased in my region. I also went to the track yesterday and here are my results;

Date: 11/1/18
Location: Great Lakes Dragaway (Union Grove, WI)
Temperature: 44F Degrees

Model: 2018 Accord Sport 2.0T
Transmission: 10-spd Automatic
Performance Modifications: PRL Stage 1 Intake

Vehicle Prep:
- Removed the spare tire and accessories from the trunk
- little under 3/4 tank of 93 octane
- 4-5 psi removed from the front tires

Best Run: 13.859 at 99.08 mph
Worst Run: 13.987 at 101.07 mph

Conclusions:
This time around, I tried a couple of different driving techniques and played around a little with tire pressure. In addition, I installed the PRL stage 1 intake while maintaining the stock tune. What I have found is the Accord would actually be a pretty good bracket racer as it's very consistent. In total, I have run my Accord down the 1/4 mile 8 times now and no matter what I changed, the car ran very consistent times within .1 seconds of each other. My second conclusion, is the stock intake is more than efficient and there is no need for an "upgrade." I ran my best time of 13.859 at 99.08 (2.256 60ft) and that was simply due to hooking properly.



 

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I think it is beneficial to include actual times AND Density Altitude adjustment in this specific thread.

We are a world-wide online forum, and while the majority of us are Americans the track times can vary widely between humid Miami and colder, dryer New Hampshire. This will cut down on debates between why the same model car is running 13.87 and another runs 14.2 Or debates between what the Cold Air Intake or product X did for the car.

As you know, 1/2 second can seem like an eternity when you are behind.

But plenty of good info and well-categorized, well-written info here from the OP. Bravo!

This kind of reminds me of fishing stories, lol....
 

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I respectfully disagree. In ¼ miles races, tenths of a second and 1-2 mph mean everything. When you describe your performance to others, do you tell them you ran about a 14 second quarter? No. You tell them you ran a 13.9 or 13.8 second quarter because that 1/10th of a second has great significance. Think about how much money people spend on mods to make their cars 1/10s to 2/10s faster. In a race, 2/10ths of a second at 100 mph is about 30 feet or about two car lengths. If one car beats another car in a quarter mile race by two car lengths that is a very clear victory.

I get your viewpoint about micro-environments. In head to head competitions on the same day everything evens out. But to state “my car ran a 13.9 second quarter” is different than stating “my car IS a 13.9 second quarter mile car.” I'll argue that we state our times because we want the "IS" label. Sometimes atmospheric conditions work for you and sometimes against you. For the numbers to have real meaning, they need to be adjusted. 1/10s of a second and 1-2 mph matter. Also, when you dyno an engine, it is normally adjusted.
I am going to have to disagree. You run what you run. If I ran a 14.0 second quarter mile, I wouldn't say, after adjustments I ran 13.9 quarter mile.

In my opinion I don't think their is any need for it to be that scientific, or to be adjusting our times.

For myself, and likely the majority of owners, they care about what they see in front of them, not something that an online calculator tells them.

If i personally went to the drag strip and ran a 13.7, i would be telling everyone i ran a 13.7, because i did. I wouldnt be telling people I ran a 14.0 after the online tool correction.

In a similar sense, you can correct his car to a 100+ MPH trap speed, but he hasn't actually done that yet.

That would be similar to putting your car on a Dyno, having it pull 230 WHP, but then going out and telling everyone the car made 250 WHP because it was a hot day when you dyno'd it, it really didnt.

Does this make sense?

Everyone lives in their own micro environment, your circle of friends likely goes to the same track as you, and the same dyno as you. So the results that happen in your own environment with your own locale and friends are really the truth in your world, not an adjusted value.
Agreed. +1
 

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Not including information is what Instagram and the Facebook forum are for. Followed by 20 questions of "Where are you?" and "I call BS no way you ran 13.8"

The USA has an air base in the warm Pacific island of Diego Garcia. A loaded B-52 bomber needs TWICE the runway to take off there than it does at the Eielson USAF base in Alaska.

more facts = less drama
 

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So far and by just referencing whats been posted on DriveAccord - we have four different Accord 2.0Ts that are running 13s stock - their have been others reporting 13s stock on the FB Page, but thats not included here.

The four posters reside in:

Wisconsin
Florida
New Hampshire
Kentucky

I would say that is a pretty good spread and would go on to show that the "fast cars" are not all localized to one area, but is becoming more the general expectation of a stock 2.0.
 

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Had a great time @ BMP (Bradenton Motorsports Park) yesterday with Casey & Eddie. Here are my times I posted, with my best 1/4 mile run of 13.766 @ 101.77 MPH. (2.276 60') Outside temperature was at 76 degrees & humidity @ 94%. My current modifications are Hondata Stage 2 Flash & PRL Stage 1 Intake. I did not adjust my tire pressure, and left it at the factory settings of 36 PSI. Full interior/spare tire/tools, and random things in my trunk. Not too shabby.
 

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Thanks for sharing. Not to the state the obvious, but we need to start altitude adjusting our times and speeds. Just like cool and dry weather boosts performance, warm and humid weather hurts it. According to:

DA Calculator - Density Altitude Calculator Bradenton Motorsports Park - DragTimes.com


at 5:53pm in Bradenton it was 79°F, 82% humidity, with 29.93” of Hg at 19’ of elevation. That implies an altitude adjustment of 1,653 feet above sea level and converts a 14.0s @ 100.3 mph run to a 13.74 @ 102.23 mph run. That makes more sense for Stage-2 2.0T Accord. Your modified 2.0T is more than a 100 mph car!
Hey Baldeagle, do you mind doing an altitude adjustment on the times I posted? Would be interested to seeing these numbers. :notworthy:salue:
 

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None, lol.

TC Off
Sport Mode On
Brake Hold On
Pull up to tree, brake hold engages
Let foot off brake
Take a sip of your ice coffee
Green light, floor it
Drink more coffee midway down track
13.9

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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None, lol.

TC Off
Sport Mode On
Brake Hold On
Pull up to tree, brake hold engages
Let foot off brake
Take a sip of your ice coffee
Green light, floor it
Drink more coffee midway down track
13.9

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
So just the good ol' floor it and hope for the best lol. These are the times when I wish I should have gotten a stick shift but since this is a daily driven vehicle, the AT will do just fine. I wonder if a down pipe will get us to the mid to low 13s.
 

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So just the good ol' floor it and hope for the best lol. These are the times when I wish I should have gotten a stick shift but since this is a daily driven vehicle, the AT will do just fine. I wonder if a down pipe will get us to the mid to low 13s.
To be honest im seeing stage 2 cars do 13.7s and 13.8s when a stocker can do 13.9 - the investment of at or near 500 dollars, risk of voiding the warranty and the general risk versus reward really isnt looking that bright at the moment.

As i showed in my method above, the good thing about a stock car is that its not overwhelming - yes i literally just floor it from a dead stop and it just goes no problem -- if i was tuned i would be blowing the tires off, going nowhere and trying to make it up in the back half.
 

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To be honest im seeing stage 2 cars do 13.7s and 13.8s when a stocker can do 13.9 - the investment of at or near 500 dollars, risk of voiding the warranty and the general risk versus reward really isnt looking that bright at the moment.
I saw those numbers on a previous post and was not impressed at all with the numbers the stage 2 was putting out on the track. Then again, it really depends on the driver, but how much can you screw up with just flooring and keeping the wheel straight lol. In all fairness, the tires on our Accords suck big time, stickier tires may alleviate the wheel spin problem when tuned. I'm going to go the down pipe route first and see what numbers I can pump out of that. And then some stickier tires next spring. There really isn't much we can do to our engines for now as we're all limited on parts.
 

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Hey Baldeagle, do you mind doing an altitude adjustment on the times I posted? Would be interested to seeing these numbers. :notworthy:salue:
Based on 76°F, 29.33”Hg, 94% humidity and 19’ elevation, density altitude is 2,169 feet above sea level. That would convert a 13.76 @ 101.77mph run to a 13.416 @ 104.643 mph run.

We all know that a stock 2.0T Accord is a 14.0 second 100 mph car. If someone runs a stock Accord in cold weather and gets a better time/speed than that, great. You ran it. Tout it! Feel good about it.

Here’s a question. If someone in an Accord ran a quarter mile race down a hill and made a 13.1 @ 109 mph run, is it right for him/her to use those numbers as a proxy for how powerful his/her car is? I’ll argue no because of the advantage that hill provided. Bragging rights are only meaningful if the numbers have true meaning. Please don’t tell me there is no ego boost involved in stating “my car pulled a 13.9s quarter.” Like that hill, favorable weather creates an advantage. If you were the one who had slower times because of hot weather, you'd want to DA adjust. The problem is that no one wants the adjustment to work against them. I get that. But it shouldn't be selective, particularly if your goal is to know the "real" performance of your car.

Real performance is perhaps most important in comparing tuned and stock Accords. To compare a stock 13.9s Accord at 40°F to a Stage 2 tuned 13.8s Accord at 85°F and conclude the tune does very little is inaccurate. If the two cars raced next to each other on the same day, the tuned Accord would probably be .6 seconds faster. It would also justify the $500 cost of the tune. That is why we need to DA adjust times for a level playing field.
 

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Here’s a question. If someone in an Accord ran a quarter mile race down a hill and made a 13.1 @ 109 mph run, is it right for him/her to use those numbers as a proxy for how powerful his/her car is? I’ll argue no because of the advantage that hill provided. Bragging rights are only meaningful if the numbers have true meaning. Please don’t tell me there is no ego boost involved in stating “my car pulled a 13.9s quarter.”
 

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2-3 tenths is pretty significant by drag racing standards, that's roughly a car length.
 

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Based on 76°F, 29.33”Hg, 94% humidity and 19’ elevation, density altitude is 2,169 feet above sea level. That would convert a 13.76 @ 101.77mph run to a 13.416 @ 104.643 mph run.

We all know that a stock 2.0T Accord is a 14.0 second 100 mph car. If someone runs a stock Accord in cold weather and gets a better time/speed than that, great. You ran it. Tout it! Feel good about it.

Here’s a question. If someone in an Accord ran a quarter mile race down a hill and made a 13.1 @ 109 mph run, is it right for him/her to use those numbers as a proxy for how powerful his/her car is? I’ll argue no because of the advantage that hill provided. Bragging rights are only meaningful if the numbers have true meaning. Please don’t tell me there is no ego boost involved in stating “my car pulled a 13.9s quarter.” Like that hill, favorable weather creates an advantage. If you were the one who had slower times because of hot weather, you'd want to DA adjust. The problem is that no one wants the adjustment to work against them. I get that. But it shouldn't be selective, particularly if your goal is to know the "real" performance of your car.

Real performance is perhaps most important in comparing tuned and stock Accords. To compare a stock 13.9s Accord at 40°F to a Stage 2 tuned 13.8s Accord at 85°F and conclude the tune does very little is inaccurate. If the two cars raced next to each other on the same day, the tuned Accord would probably be .6 seconds faster. It would also justify the $500 cost of the tune. That is why we need to DA adjust times for a level playing field.
I suppose we just see differently on this subject. Much like the conversion tool is a scientific calculator, the track itself is also a scientific measuring tool that's calibrated specifically to gain accurate information. I've never in my entire life heard someone say to me that they run XYZ but in reality it should be XYZ instead due to the conversation.

There are many world class racers out in the world, NHRA, the whole 9, they go to a racetrack, bust out a time and the time you see is what goes in official record books and wins official races, trophies, money, ETC - they don't convert all their race cars times to a different value.

Are some race tracks faster then others? Sure, but that's just how the world works.

If you had two cars going for the same world record, one car ran a 8.9 in Florida and the other car ran a 9.0 in Denver, a mile+ above sea level... the 8.9 florida car would still be the world record holder, fastest car, trophy winner ETC...


But anyway, switching gears here..

Prior to the accord i owned a Dodge SRT4, full bolt ons, tuned, had a big turbo kit on it, the whole 9 -- The fastest i ever got that car was mid 13s, but it trapped 110+ MPH, mainly because it was spin city.. I remember i literally got beat by a guy driving a ford crown vic one time because i couldn't hook up, it was just spin city. Coming from that platform to the accord, i can now appreciate a lower amount of power, but actually being able to get that power to the ground and turn it into movement, versus just a burnout contest. I guess my point is just throwing as much power at something as possible (tune) will not always yield the best results
 

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Real performance is perhaps most important in comparing tuned and stock Accords. To compare a stock 13.9s Accord at 40°F to a Stage 2 tuned 13.8s Accord at 85°F and conclude the tune does very little is inaccurate. If the two cars raced next to each other on the same day, the tuned Accord would probably be .6 seconds faster. It would also justify the $500 cost of the tune. That is why we need to DA adjust times for a level playing field.
Agreed 100%. We just need more data. Give it time and we should have some tuned cars reporting in this winter doing runs on cooler weather.

Also, we need some 6MT timeslips!!
 

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Coming from that platform to the accord, i can now appreciate a lower amount of power, but actually being able to get that power to the ground and turn it into movement, versus just a burnout contest. I guess my point is just throwing as much power at something as possible (tune) will not always yield the best results
if i was tuned i would be blowing the tires off, going nowhere and trying to make it up in the back half
All 3 of the tuned guys posted better 60' times than your run. In fact, the best 60' so far is with a Stage 2 tune with 2.175s.

So no, they aren't just sitting still doing a burnout or "blowing the tires off" and going nowhere with this uncontrollable amount of torque.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Guys we can go back-n-forth beating the time slips vs DA times to death...This is not what this thread is about. In my first post, I requested everything be listed in a specific format.

- Date
- Location
- Temperature
- Model
- Transmission
- Mods
- Vehicle Prep
- Best time / Worst time (followed by verified time slips)

That is enough information for the "reader" of the post to enter the information into the DA calculator if they desire. I personally find there are too many unanswered variables for the one size fits all DA equation to be completly accurate. I do not choose to run my car on the hottest day of the year...I wait until the air is cool and dense before I go beat the crap out of it. I want every advantage in my corner in order to obtain the best possible time for my particular setup. With that said, I understand DA in theory, I would simply prefer that this thread be more about verified time slips. I do however welcome all those that have run their cars down the strip to post as much information as they can provide. Thanks!!
 

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All 3 of the tuned guys posted better 60' times than your run. In fact, the best 60' so far is with a Stage 2 tune with 2.175s.

So no, they aren't just sitting still doing a burnout or "blowing the tires off" and going nowhere with this uncontrollable amount of torque.
If the tuned guys are pulling better 60 foot times then me, then how am i doing the same times as them? If they got off the line better then me, then they should start pulling away easy with 50 extra HP, except their not?

As an example, the slip posted above for a Hondata Stage 2 tune plus a PRL Intake

13.983 @ 99.31mph
2.175 60’

Versus Stock tune and stock intake.. Not down just 1 mod, but 2 different mods.

13.91 @ 102 mph
2.3 60 foot.

If its not the initial traction or hit off the line, then im pulling away on the big end
 
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