[BlueCoupe08]

Im online and i lookin at the Acura OEM rear sway bar for a 09'tsx, it says the stock one is 17mm. I was looking at this link: http://www.advancespeedshop.com/progress-technology-rear-sway-2009-acura-620104-p-11623.html

And it says that this sway bar is 22mm. for like 56 dollors more. Do you think there will be a noticable differance between the two?

 

[staro0989]

Im online and i lookin at the Acura OEM rear sway bar for a 09'tsx, it says the stock one is 17mm. I was looking at this link: http://www.advancespeedshop.com/progress-technology-rear-sway-2009-acura-620104-p-11623.html

And it says that this sway bar is 22mm. for like 56 dollors more. Do you think there will be a noticable differance between the two?

it probably would be a nice upgrade but u would probably need to upgrade the front sway bar so there isnt to much oversteer i would think, but i could be wrong.

 

[YRMed]

From reading the entire previous thread about rear sway bars, you must make sure that the 22mm is not too rigid. I mean, you are going from a 15mm to a 22mm. Think about the connection brackets, you could potentially just rip them right out because the bar is too stiff. ... Just a thought. I think personally a 20mm is as much as I would go. I also think that the 17.5mm (or 17 mm) '09 TSX bar would be just fine for street use.

 

[Edaccord08]

From reading the entire previous thread about rear sway bars, you must make sure that the 22mm is not too rigid. I mean, you are going from a 15mm to a 22mm. Think about the connection brackets, you could potentially just rip them right out because the bar is too stiff. ... Just a thought. I think personally a 20mm is as much as I would go. I also think that the 17.5mm (or 17 mm) '09 TSX bar would be just fine for street use.

right, For street use I think TSX probably be best allround for most. Unless you plan to do track time the 17mm looks good to me .

He has 2.4L so rearbar is 13-14mm depending on model (LX's- EX+'s).

lets look at area increase, will use EX 14mm as base.
14mm, 0.551 in's Dia = 0.24 square in 's

22mm, 0.866 in's Dia = 0.588 square in's

So 22mm is 2x (100%) the area of stock bar

for reference the 17mm, 0.67 in Dia = 0.352 square in"s

So 17mm is approx 47% increase of stock 14mm on 2.4L

you really don't want rear bar to big on FWD car for daily driving , rear is already light.

 

[orion]

i almost ordered the 22mm but had the same concerns... but i'm certainly experiencing a lot of understeer so looking to upgrade the sway bar either or

 

[A&Fbro28]

it probably would be a nice upgrade but u would probably need to upgrade the front sway bar so there isnt to much oversteer i would think, but i could be wrong.

I disagree. A bigger rear sway bar does NOT normally add oversteer. It just dials OUT oversteer (the tendancy of the car to push outward in a turn) so the handling will be more balanced. Now with that said, the lighter the car the less greater in size of the bar youd need to go hence why the V6 gets bigger front bar than inline-4. The 22mm bar will be fine for a car that has lower CG (on lowering springs) and grippier tires.

Also keep in mine the VSA/TPS will enterveen if the car senses oversteer by adding brake pressure to one of the rear brakes. So in the end... I say...

GO BIG(22mm) or don't change at all .

 

[jpdaigle]

all the coupe have a 15mm rear sway bar. The 17mm tsx bar is 64% stiffer than the stock 15mm (if the shape of the bar is exactly the same). For the 22mm bar, we need the dimension of the bar to know the stifness. Also, the 22mm bar has 2 holes, so the "stiffness" can be adjust.

I would be carefull with the 22mm bar.....

 

[NoRegrets78]

Endlinks will probably be required. Stock endlinks are designed for stock bars. I upgraded to a progress bar in my RSX and it snapped the stock endlinks like they were junk. Remember, a suspension is only as good as the weakest link (same can be said for any mod).

 

[starbai]

I dont see a reason to even risk it with the 22mm unless you're definitly tracking the car.

17mm would probably be more than necessary. and its a direct bolt on no modifications needed from what I understand.

 

[RTexasF]

For what it's worth the change from stock to the 17mm in my 7th gen sedan made a world of difference, a true transformation in handling without getting twitchy in high speed maneuvers. Couple that with a solid tower strut brace and I believe your car will more than please you in the handling area.

A few folks that went with the largest rear bar but did not upsize the front found themselves swapping ends as the rear broke loose very unexpectedly. They went back to the 17 mm and all was cured. Different years, yes I understand that, but the principle is the same

 

[Mechanic]

There is another aspect to this: A 22mm rear bar definately will make a difference, and because it has nearly twice the resistance of the OEM rear bar, the difference will be felt even in low-speed turns. There is no free lunch, however. The additional twisting force (torque) in being focused on the stock (sheet metal) chassis mounting points, which were not designed for a 100% increase in torque. This often results in the end links snapping (easy to fix), but put enough torque into the OEM mounting points, and they will tear. It's rare that it happens, but it's expensive to repair because it involves welding in reinforcements and fitting new brackets. That, of course, is what should be done initially to reinforce the mounting points.

That's why going with a 17mm bar is a reasonable upgrade with essentially no risk of damage.

 

[RTexasF]

There is another aspect to this: A 22mm rear bar definately will make a difference, and because it has nearly twice the resistance of the OEM rear bar, the difference will be felt even in low-speed turns. There is no free lunch, however. The additional twisting force (torque) in being focused on the stock (sheet metal) chassis mounting points, which were not designed for a 100% increase in torque. This often results in the end links snapping (easy to fix), but put enough torque into the OEM mounting points, and they will tear. It's rare that it happens, but it's expensive to repair because it involves welding in reinforcements and fitting new brackets. That, of course, is what should be done initially to reinforce the mounting points.

That's why going with a 17mm bar is a reasonable upgrade with essentially no risk of damage.

Well said, very well said. :thmsup: In short: More is not always better!

 

[Edaccord08]

There is another aspect to this: A 22mm rear bar definately will make a difference, and because it has nearly twice the resistance of the OEM rear bar, the difference will be felt even in low-speed turns. There is no free lunch, however. The additional twisting force (torque) in being focused on the stock (sheet metal) chassis mounting points, which were not designed for a 100% increase in torque. This often results in the end links snapping (easy to fix), but put enough torque into the OEM mounting points, and they will tear. It's rare that it happens, but it's expensive to repair because it involves welding in reinforcements and fitting new brackets. That, of course, is what should be done initially to reinforce the mounting points.

That's why going with a 17mm bar is a reasonable upgrade with essentially no risk of damage.

right, thats one of reason 17mm should be good. 1) its used on the TSX which shares same subframe.

I used to work at performance shop and many popular sports cars can have different sized bar upgrades. I can tell you the +2 upgraded bar sizes (ones where no bigger bar can fit the C clamps), would ripe/bend the C clamp bushing right out of frame mount, sometimes even tearing the frame mounting sheet metal. It all depends on how well swaybar mounting area is reinforced from factory and also how hard the vehicle is pushed.

The kits that did work , with large bars would reinforce brackets and mounting area along with end links.

What i don't like on that 22mm if its one I think i saw instruction docs you have to hack up your frame, drill out the wholes, I just don't think its worth it.

that ultra xx something site sells 19mm, that might be good for extreme usage for those that "must" have biggest bar.

Also with 08 VSA kicking in if a tire starts braking lose, you don't want that happening as it slows you up.

 

[asaga1]

There is another aspect to this: A 22mm rear bar definately will make a difference, and because it has nearly twice the resistance of the OEM rear bar, the difference will be felt even in low-speed turns. There is no free lunch, however. The additional twisting force (torque) in being focused on the stock (sheet metal) chassis mounting points, which were not designed for a 100% increase in torque. This often results in the end links snapping (easy to fix), but put enough torque into the OEM mounting points, and they will tear. It's rare that it happens, but it's expensive to repair because it involves welding in reinforcements and fitting new brackets. That, of course, is what should be done initially to reinforce the mounting points.

That's why going with a 17mm bar is a reasonable upgrade with essentially no risk of damage.

word!:yes::yes:

 

[Big LrG]

There is another aspect to this: A 22mm rear bar definately will make a difference, and because it has nearly twice the resistance of the OEM rear bar, the difference will be felt even in low-speed turns. There is no free lunch, however. The additional twisting force (torque) in being focused on the stock (sheet metal) chassis mounting points, which were not designed for a 100% increase in torque. This often results in the end links snapping (easy to fix), but put enough torque into the OEM mounting points, and they will tear. It's rare that it happens, but it's expensive to repair because it involves welding in reinforcements and fitting new brackets. That, of course, is what should be done initially to reinforce the mounting points.

That's why going with a 17mm bar is a reasonable upgrade with essentially no risk of damage.

I agree 100% with everything you said EXCEPT for the part about welding. One rule of thumb is for you not to weld on supsension parts!

 

[ChefMac]

Everyone, go with the Progress 22mm for the TSX, i got mine at heeltoeauto.com and it took about a week to get here. FREE SHIPPING. Handles awesome and i think if any of you know how to drive you absolutely wont be disappointed. It comes with new bushings and hardware and its not that difficult if you are at all mechanical.

 

[YRMed]

Everyone, go with the Progress 22mm for the TSX, i got mine at heeltoeauto.com and it took about a week to get here. FREE SHIPPING. Handles awesome and i think if any of you know how to drive you absolutely wont be disappointed. It comes with new bushings and hardware and its not that difficult if you are at all mechanical.

Nice. But what about the possibility that the sway bar will rip off your brackets because they are too stiff in comparison to stock. Is there a warranty for that?

Let us know. Thanks!

 

[ChefMac]

Which brackets? They give you new ones along with a piece to put clap around the existing, unless the weld brakes those puppies aren't going anywhere. The end-links would only snap if some doesn't know how to stay on the road or hits a massive pothole at like 90mph.

 

[rockman]

hey CHef--I went to websight --the 22mm bars are $189.00+frees&h----did you install those on the REAR of your 08 Accord Coupe??

You replaced the Stock(rear) swaybar w/this 22mm?? Please confirm this(then I'll order)

I think this sounds GREAT! Basically when I turn corners, my Coupe w/stay LEVEL instead of leaning, true?

 

[jpdaigle]

Basically when I turn corners, my Coupe w/stay LEVEL instead of leaning, true?

eeeuh.... well. a stiffer rear bar transfer MORE weight in the rear so less in the front. The exterior rear tire will take much of the load in the back and a part of the load that was transfer in the front with the oem bar. By doing so, it unloads the front (mostly the exterior tire who is satured during a hard turn)so each tire can now share the job more evenlly and handle more.

So basicly it's to unload the front tires. You will also feel less roll in the car....